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Princess Daybed for Daughter #1: Design and Planning

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Blog entry by JohnMcClure posted 07-03-2018 01:51 AM 409 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Princess Daybed for Daughter series Part 2: Drafting my plans - taking shape! »

My wife and I will be bringing home our daughter in a few weeks. It’s time to get serious about her bedroom, so this blog is a chance for me to keep track of my thoughts during the design and building of the bed, and to ask you all for your valuable input.
Wife wants a fancy bed, conceptually similar to this:

But she wants it to be a daybed. I came up with this:

Which is a terrible picture of an awful sketch I made.

It’s going to be a twin, which gives mattress dimensions about 75”x39”x6”.

I’ll get in AutoCAD and make a better sketch, and be able to plan how to build this a bit better.
Some very helpful LJs advised me about making moldings, which already has my brain running about how to make the curved rails… Oh and of course LOML chose the curvy option for the side, instead of the easy straight option at the bottom…

The plan so far:
Posts are roughly 3×3, I’m thinking. I’ll probably resaw or plane down from 4×4. Don’t have a lathe, so there will be some hand shaping; nothing too fancy without a lathe. Probably buy ball finials for the tops.

Headboard (or do you call it a sideboard for a daybed?) panel is 1/2” plywood, I think, and sits in grooves in the posts at the ends, and sits in a groovy groove in the curvy top rail. Moldings curve across it, and “support” a circle with a fancy “M” (for Meredith) in the center.

The headboard top rail should be 3” thick, I think, or equal to the posts; cut to a fancy curve, probably or other routed profile along its length. A groove routed on its underside retains the panel. Routing this groove will be a challenge, methinks. Oh, and I think it should M&T into the posts.
Possibly could get away with 1.5” thick for the rail…

Headboard bottom rail is straight, maybe from a 2×4 cut down a bit? M&T into the posts, groove along length to support the panel.

The ends:
Cut top rail to a curve, cut tenons to fit in posts, then mortise to receive slats. Mortising for all those slats will be a real challenge… maybe I could use dowels for the slats, and drill the mortises, or cut round tenons onto rectangular slats. Anything beats chopping that many mortises – especially on a curve!

So this is a big project (for me), maybe the biggest I’ve done, and it’s for a good cause. So if anyone has advice or suggestion, please chime in – I could use it!
Stop me now before I do something dumb!

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail



3 comments so far

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

232 posts in 757 days


#1 posted 07-03-2018 02:10 AM

The boss has submitted the first design change:
The sides (ends?) will be panels, with trim, rather than slats. That’s actually a good thing, since it avoids all those pesky mortises.

There will be trim on the end panels, offset about 4” from the perimeter of the panels, following the same curvy outline on the top.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View sras's profile

sras

4871 posts in 3246 days


#2 posted 07-03-2018 02:55 PM

One thought: Cut your tenons before you cut curves. Easier to keep things square and aligned with straight sides.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

232 posts in 757 days


#3 posted 07-03-2018 03:48 PM



One thought: Cut your tenons before you cut curves. Easier to keep things square and aligned with straight sides.

- sras


Thanks Steve. Good idea. Have any thoughts on how deep these tenons should run, where two rails go into a post at a 90 degree corner? Thinking 0.5” wide tenons into a 3” post…

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

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