Butcher Block Kitchen Table #11: The Actual "Butcher Block" part of the table...

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Blog entry by Jimi_C posted 08-21-2010 03:36 AM 10083 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 10: Base Frame Done Part 11 of Butcher Block Kitchen Table series Part 12: Nearing completion of the top (finally...) »

Lots of cutting the last 2 nights…

It’s not glued yet, the clamps are just there to help me hold it together and measure stuff. Tomorrow I’ll start gluing the strips up 6 or so at a time, and run them through the jointer/planer all at once to ensure they’re the proper thickness. Right now, they’re just over 1” thick, so hopefully when I’m done they won’t be 1/2”...

I’ve bailed on the end-grain idea – this is going to be edge grain. The primary reason is, I picked up this wood in my small car and had the guy cut the 8’ boards down to 4’ halves. In order to ensure nice clean lines I would have had to thickness everything to perfect thicknesses so they lined up all the way down. This is much easier, as I’m just thicknessing boards in multiples of 2” (with a little extra for saw kerf/jointing) so that I can just maintain symmetry across the width. I really don’t want to mess with it that much, so I’ll save the end-grain for the board I’m planning on making out of the scraps :)

Finally, I may take the center strip of maple out, since right now it’s just under 26” wide and I only need around 25” or so to have a nice overhang of 1” to 1.5”. That just means I’ll have a double strip of cherry running down the middle, which I’m OK with.

On an unrelated note – I finally got around to modding my tablesaw to use proper dust collection:

I got the 14” hood from Rockler, and made a platform that sits between the saw and the stand out of 1/4” birch plywood. There’s also a bead of silicone around the edge to seal it up nicely. I got a wye also, and hooked it up to the 2” port coming out of the back as well:

As you can see from that pic, I have to manually move the hose around a bit while processing wood, but it’s not bad overall. I’m looking forward to a future of having a Thein cyclone and proper ducting, but that will require some electrical work. I’ve got about 5 books on wiring, since in my locality you can do your own in-house wiring if you pass a test the city gives – so hopefully I’ll be able to handle that myself.

Overall though, it is a revelation! I ran a piece of MDF through, slicing it into about 6 1” strips, and there was almost ZERO dust in the air. A little bit still escapes out the front, and a miniscule amount out the back, but I’d say it’s 95% easy. After cutting all of those strips there was a light dusting in front of the saw, which was easily cleaned up with a few passes from the hand vac attachment. Most of it went here:

There is absolutely zero waste from the planer, and a tiny amount from the top of the jointer. I already have plans to mod the blade guard on my table saw, so I can try and catch the majority of the spray from that as well. I can’t believe I waited this long to get my dust collector going, it is a night and day difference when milling wood. There used to be a massive mess everywhere, now 5 minutes of vacuuming and it’s like I didn’t do anything (the wide angle shot of the shop is AFTER I finished tonight) :)

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

2 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile


8523 posts in 3067 days

#1 posted 08-21-2010 04:29 PM

Looking good.

FYI. it seems you have plenty of room to move the DC closer to your dust makers – you might be getting better results if the flex hose was shorter :) are you planning on permanently ducting the DC?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Jimi_C's profile


507 posts in 2653 days

#2 posted 08-21-2010 04:48 PM

The issue with the DC being that far away is, that’s the only circuit I’ve found in my basement that will support it. Like I said, I’m studying up to take the test to do my own wiring, so I can add a circuit closer and then install smooth ducting in the shop with blast gates – the whole she-bang.

I’m not getting bad results as is, I’ve only got 30 feet of flex, which seems to be fine since I’m hooking direct up to each tool. The jointer and planer used to be the worst, and now I have zero clogs – which is impressive considering how crappy the Ryobi AP1301’s dust collection port is. We’ll see if that holds true after introducing a Thein collector to the mix, though there doesn’t seem to be much of a drop off in CFM from them based on a very thorough dig through the forums at his site (I know dbhost is a huge fan, and many people have the same setup I do).

The only dust I have to manually clean up is being generated from the top of the table saw, but it’s a relatively small amount. Still, I’ll be building over the table collection. My blade guard is wide enough that I can at least mod it so that it has a 1” port, I just need to find a piece of plastic that transitions from square to round.

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

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