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Bandsaw Restoration #2: Progress, at last

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Blog entry by Jimi_C posted 1470 days ago 2064 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy Part 2 of Bandsaw Restoration series Part 3: Quick Update »

Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I’m finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I’ve started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.

I’ve been slowly but surely striping off pieces, but had run into a road block with the wheels… the bearings were stuck solid. Someone on LJ (Grizzman?) suggested I look into getting a gear puller, so Harbor Freight to the rescue!

After a little wrangling, I managed to pop the axle out of the top wheel, and popped both the bottom wheel and pulley wheel off the bottom axle. I think these might be the original bearings – they took some of the paint with them when they came off. When the top finally gave, it was after a LOT of cranking on the gear puller, and at first I was afraid I had cracked one of the cast iron spokes.

This is why I’m stripping it down piece by piece:

This band saw is 50+ years old, and it looks like it was never cleaned in all those years. Here’s all the pieces (minus the bottom wheel) laid out on my corner bench. All of them have had a good wipe down with WD40, though I’ll probably take a little soap and water to them:

I haven’t decided if I’m going to repaint it, though I’m definitely leaning towards it. There’s a bit of rust on the outside bottom under the pulley wheel (visible in the pic above), and the paint is a bit worn in some areas. If I do paint it, I’m not sure if I’ll keep it Power King green (I’m leaning towards good old black Rustoleum).

Beyond all this, here’s the last problem:

That bugger will not come off. I’m trying to be somewhat gentle with this, because I don’t want to crack anything. If I had another 1/8” I could use the gear puller on it, but there’s just a bit too little space to get the arms around it. Any suggestions?

I’m also not 100% sure how to get the bottom axle out, I’m going to have to look at the OWWM manual for this again to see how it all goes together. More likely than not, the two bottom bearings are frozen to the frame just as badly as the top ones were…

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"



8 comments so far

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 1963 days


#1 posted 1470 days ago

Looks like you are gonna need a bearing splitter to get that bearing off the tilt shaft. The drive shaft might have a couple of snap rings inside the housing. Once you have the lower wheel off the shaft “may” slide out the other way. There should also be a couple of spring washers inside behind the bearings. If so, watch their orientation as it comes out.

After looking at the pics again it appears to go together just like my old Delta 14. The shaft should come out to the pulley side. A few blows with a mallet should loosen it up. I would recommend a real good penetrating oil. PB BBlaster, Kroil ( my fav) or a mixture of kerosene and tranny fluid. Let it SOAK for a while and it should start moving.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View mrg's profile

mrg

514 posts in 1501 days


#2 posted 1470 days ago

I have two suggestions. First is a pickle fork, used to get ball joints off, It tapers looks like a two prong fork walk the bearing off. The other is if the bearing was off the shaft would the shaft come off the backer plate? If so have the assembly pressed out at a auto parts store, local machine or at your local mechanic.

-- mrg

View doordude's profile

doordude

1070 posts in 1484 days


#3 posted 1470 days ago

why not repaint in green or pm gold?
rustollium black is just not meant for wood working machinery…

great job on being so thorugh on the break down.

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 1963 days


#4 posted 1470 days ago

I would NOT a pickle fork. The pot metal behind the bearing will not support the fork and WILL break.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View BOB67CAM's profile

BOB67CAM

269 posts in 1573 days


#5 posted 1470 days ago

i agree with medic, what i would do personally is weld a couple peices of steel to the bearing race and use the wheel puller on those, and use your prefernce of penetrating oil, mine is jb-80 but as others have mentioned let it soak , u could also heat up the bearing race a bit before pulling but dont heat up the axle or itll get tighter but be very weary of that cast metal as it would take some big money to have it replced if u cant find the part and need to have 1 machined
good luck!

-- if you dont have it, build it, especially when its a stupid idea

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

506 posts in 1736 days


#6 posted 1470 days ago

@mrg: I was trying to avoid removing the hinge pin, but it does look like if it were removed I could easily get leverage on the bearing and use the gear puller on it. I do like the idea of attaching something to the bearing to get better leverage on it, so I’ll probably try that first. My fear is that removing/replacing it could cause something to crack from too much stress.

@doordude: Yeah, now that I think about it black would show every bit of dust, so I’ll see if I can find a green close to the Power King shade. Grizzly’s green actually looks pretty similar, so I may try and match up with that.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

506 posts in 1736 days


#7 posted 1470 days ago

After researching what a bearing splitter is, it looks pretty much like what I was considering doing. I was going to see if I could find a U-shaped piece of metal (maybe cut a chunk out of a large washer) and use that to get a lip around the bearing to pull it off. The bearing splitter looks like the “right” way to do that, though they are a bit pricey ($25 even at Harbor Freight).

I’m pretty thrifty, and I don’t know if I can justify $25 for a single-use item, when that would almost buy new urethane tires. I’ll try and go the cheap route, but if I can’t get it off that way I’ll splurge on the bearing splitter.

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

View Tim Gates's profile

Tim Gates

38 posts in 1544 days


#8 posted 1468 days ago

Suggest you try Auto Zone or similar for the specialty tools. They have loaner tools that you can use for free (i.e., even cheaper than HF). PB Blaster pentrating oil might be worth a try.

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