Router Table Insert for my Table Saw

Looks good Jim, yes, please post on the end result. I need to build one myself. I seen a a video on a guy making one and he used a 12X12 piece of floor tile that drops in for the insert.

-- Senior Chief

They don’t have to be fancy now do they? BTW, No need to apologize for a Ryobi router. I had one, and the only reason I got rid of it was no 1/2” collet… I shouldn’t have gotten rid of it though. It was very handy for quick work as bit changes on it were really easy…

FWIW, Melamine coated MDF is what a LOT of the aftermarket router table extension wings are made of. So you are on the right track. Not sure why you are getting flex though. That Ryobi router isn’t all that heavy comparatively speaking…

-- Trying to follow the example of the master.

dbhost: It does the job, and I plan to keep it for hand-held work in the future. I just want one that is variable speed (for using large panel bits) and with a 1/2” collet like you said. It does also have a hex bolt for fine adjustments from the top, so it should work out for a temp router table. The span of the table is pretty wide, about 25”, but I didn’t mean to sound like I’m getting major deflection. I have to put my weight on it and it deflects maybe 1/64” max. My fear is that the prolonged weight of the router hanging may be enough to make that deflection permanent. If it does, I guess I can always wedge a 2×4 under it ^_^

One thing I noticed this morning, even at full depth, the router bit is protruding about 1/2” – 3/4” depending on how deeply I chuck the bit. Considering the Ryobi routers do have a reputation for chucks that aren’t 100% accurate, I’d probably want to chuck it fully to reduce slop on cuts. That means I may have to route out the bottom a little to inset the router.

Ah, yeah, doesn’t sound like a huge deal to me. I agree with the single speed issue, and the collet. Which is why I got the Hitachi KM12VC.

Yeah, I think if you do have the router mounted at full depth, you are going to not be able to expose most bits fully…

-- Trying to follow the example of the master.

Jim, loks good, need one for mine also. Great space saver. I along with everyone elase, cant figure out wh the flex still with the braces you have on there!

-- Gary, Little River,SC I've Learned that the Lord didn't do it all in one day and neither can I

nice to see the results!

my router is supported with 3 screws (countersunk not counterbored) through a 3/4 mdf top without washers. the top IS supported on 4 sides like yours is not, which will aid in reducing deflection. as you say – the MDF will creep over time. I wonder if you can design it to use a thinner base part at the router (i.e. 1-ply), then support it more heavily elsewhere (2+ ply) – to maximize bit extension through the top and minimize deflection.

good start

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

@AaronK: I’m just going to rout out a space the base of the router a bit, maybe 1/4” or so. That way I’ll still have 3/4” of MDF supporting it. I’ll give it a try without washers, worst case it just rips out and I have to cut 2 more pieces of MDF :)

i think thats a good idea. (eiw, routing MDF!)

where were you going to put the washers? i guess i cant really picture what you mean.

I agree about the routing MDF… I had sworn I’d never do it again…

The washers would have been sunk below the surface of the MDF on top, basically just using a Forstner bit to make holes the size of the washers. The downside would be relatively large “pot holes” on the top of the router table, but I wasn’t all that worried about it.

gotcha. i would suggest instead using flat-head screws to attach the router so that the countersinks do not remove as much material as counterbores. Also, if you want to reinforce the MDF at the holes, you can use a variety of curing agents – glues (PVA, CA, etc) or poly finish that will soak in an increase the durability locally.

That’s a good idea about using PVA to strengthen the counterbore, I will most definitely do that.

lol wait wait. i just realized that pva might not be the best since it has so much water in it – that is, it might case some unwanted swelling. best to use non-aqueous like cyanoacrylate or poly finish.

I thought of that, I figured it’d just soak into the MDF anyway, and I may have to re-drill it a bit – no big deal and it’d still be soaked into the MDF around the new bore.