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Taliesin Desk in Cherry #9: Breadboard Ends

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Blog entry by JimYoung posted 01-03-2016 02:38 PM 1081 reads 1 time favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 8: Topping it off Part 9 of Taliesin Desk in Cherry series Part 10: Finally! »

I’ve been pretty productive over my holiday break. I received a new 3/8” up cut router bit and collet. I tried finishing up the mortise on the breadboard ends on my router table, but was still getting a lot of vibration and weird sounds from my router. I tried slowing the speed down even more, but that didn’t help.

I ended up going back to my plunge router base with guides to finish them up. I was concerned about using this setup, since I would be routing a pretty deep slot in the edge of a 4” wide board. In the end this worked out better and gave me a cleaner mortise. I still got some vibration when routing, so I’m wondering if the bearings I replaced a year or so ago have gone bad already. I don’t feel any play in the bottom bearing, but I do see a lot of electrical arcing from the motor brushes when the vibration happens. The vibration is more pronounced when cutting a full slot. When widening the slot with the bit only cutting on one side, the vibration is much less if at all. Not sure it this is a characteristic of the spiral bits grabbing the wood?

The original plans called for a 2” tenon into the breadboard ends. The $50 carbide bit only has a 1 1/4” cutting length, so I cut down the tenon to 1”. We’ll see if this is enough.

Next, I faceted the ends of the breadboards and routed a series of 1/4” deep slots on the outside edge for some walnut accent pieces. These pieces will cover the screw holes that mount the breadboard ends.

I used a 3/8” forstner bit to make counter sink for the mounting screws. I slotted the screw holes to allow for movement. I had some 2” screws with a hex head and wide washer surface left over from my deck. With all four screw snugged up, the breadboards are very solid. No glue used here.

The walnut accents match the ones on the drawer fronts and front apron. I milled a 3/8” strip, then ripped a 30 degree bevels on it, and finally cut them to length. They are just tapped into place with no glue in case I need to remove them later to access the screws.

With that, all the major construction is done. I have a couple of the wedges to repair where they broke when I was pounding them in. This left a ragged edge that I’ll fill with tinted epoxy and filler. Then it should be a final sanding and shop clean up before applying the finish.

It’s back to work on Monday.

Happy New Year to everyone!

-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon



12 comments so far

View DanMelander's profile

DanMelander

40 posts in 1084 days


#1 posted 01-03-2016 02:57 PM

Your table is looking great! How are you attaching the top of the desk?

View JimYoung's profile

JimYoung

227 posts in 1053 days


#2 posted 01-03-2016 03:18 PM

I’ve ordered a bag of heavy gauge “figure-8” fasteners. These allow for movement of the cross grain top to the long grain side aprons. I’ve used these in the past on my other tables, and they work nice. I figure I’ll use 4 along each side to make sure it is strong enough to lift the desk by the top.

-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon

View DanMelander's profile

DanMelander

40 posts in 1084 days


#3 posted 01-03-2016 11:58 PM

Please post of photo of the figure-8 fasteners when they are attached to the base. I would be interested in how you install them.

Thanks, Dan

View avlamonte's profile

avlamonte

17 posts in 343 days


#4 posted 01-05-2016 12:43 AM

Table looks awesome! I have used the figure 8 fasteners also…they work great…

-- "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4859 posts in 2279 days


#5 posted 01-05-2016 02:50 AM

Looks great. Really sharp.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View JimYoung's profile

JimYoung

227 posts in 1053 days


#6 posted 01-05-2016 03:01 AM

Thanks guys. I picked up some Arm-R-Seal Semi-Gloss today and have done a few test pieces.

I also have a 2” cable guide since I will be using this a desk for my computer. I’m not looking forward to drillings a 2” hole in the top! 8^o

-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon

View Macan's profile

Macan

10 posts in 335 days


#7 posted 01-08-2016 08:49 PM

Your desk is awesome. I found this desk on Kevin Rodels web site a few years ago and have wanted to build
it ever since. I finally finished remodeling my kitchen and bar area so I can get back to building furniture. This
desk will be a challenge because the pieces are pretty large. I do have a 12 inch planner and an 8 inch joiner so it should work out.
Would you be willing to share the dimensions of the desk? I’ve determined the overall dimensions (LxWxH) but I’m
unsure of cross members and uprights.
At this point I think I’m going to build a mock up out of some extra plywood I have.
Thanks, Jim

View JimYoung's profile

JimYoung

227 posts in 1053 days


#8 posted 01-08-2016 10:44 PM

Hi Jim,

The base is 44 1/2” x 30 1/2”, and the height is a standard 30” for a table/desk. My top will be 36”x 68”, but this is easy to adjust for your needs and space.

Dan and I have a full Sketchup drawing with all of the pieces exploded that you are welcome to, just send me a private message with your email, and I’ll pass it along.

I have a 13” planer, table saw, and a router. It is not terribly difficult to build, but once you glue up the legs and top you have some big pieces to move around the shop. I still consider myself a noobie, by what I see on this site, but as long as I take my time and plan things out it is doable.

-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon

View Macan's profile

Macan

10 posts in 335 days


#9 posted 01-09-2016 01:23 AM

Hi Jim,

Turns out I can’t send a private email until I have posts on the site.
So I guess I’ll take a chance and post it here. F355Hend@aol.com

I sure appreciate the file. Thanks, Jim

View JimYoung's profile

JimYoung

227 posts in 1053 days


#10 posted 01-15-2016 05:33 PM

Quick update (not enough for a new post).

I’ve got a couple of coats of Arm-R-Seal oil based Semi-Gloss on the desk. I used a foam brush and laid down two coats and then sanded with 400grit to level it out. I’ll add either one or two more coats. The top and drawers are pretty straight forward, but the base took over 2 hours to sand. All those nooks and crannies.

The finish really brought out the color and grain, and I’m very happy with how it is coming out. I have a 3000 grit pad that I tested, and it knocks down all the dust specks and leaves a beautiful, smooth, satin finish. My plan is to rub out the final coat with this pad and finish with a coat of paste wax. This should be a lot cleaner than using steel wool. I have an old can of Johnson’s wax, any suggestions here?

-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon

View EarlS's profile

EarlS

295 posts in 1814 days


#11 posted 01-15-2016 06:14 PM

Jim,

I prefer Behlens Deluxing compound rather than regular Johnson’s wax. It gives a much nicer finish that lasts longer too. It is a wax product. Follow the directions otherwise is dries and is a pain to rub out. I usually buff it off with a soft cloth and it gives a nice durable finish that stands up to wear quite well. After my first use, I threw my can of Johnson’s wax in the trash.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View JimYoung's profile

JimYoung

227 posts in 1053 days


#12 posted 01-16-2016 02:01 AM

Thanks for the tip, I’ll look into it.

-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon

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