Thanks for the comments and suggestions on my last post. I don’t have a dado blade yet, but after a quick search I found a box joint jig for a single blade table saw. It is basically a drill bit that is the same size as the kerf of the saw blade stuck into a piece of wood. I did a test cut in some plywood and found a drill bit that just fit. I then drilled an undersize hole in some scrap wood and pressed the bit into place. The only restriction here is that the bit be closer to the edge of the board than the depth of the notches. The jig is then clamped to my sled or a miter bar.
You set it up the same as a regular box joint jig and you just need to make a few passes with the saw to hog out each notch.
My blade does not leave a flat bottom notch, so some clean up was needed with a rasp. All in all, this went a lot smoother than the router jig. A lot less dust and chips and I didn’t burn up a $40 bit. Since there are so many notches, for the glue up I partially assembled each joint where I could still get a brush in to apply the glue. Then I used a band clamp and cauls to pull it together.
With both drawers done, I added the drawer supports to the cabinet. These fit in notches in the legs that I had chiseled out prior to assembly. Once the glue set up, I marked and drilled pilot holes for the drawer slides. These I ordered from OVIS and they have a soft close hydraulic feature.
After that , the mating part of the slides were screwed to the drawer boxes.
The next nerve wracking procedure was to cut the drawer fronts from the blank I have glued up a few weeks ago. I wanted the grain to line up from the top to bottom drawer. Here’s where measure twice and cut once was key. I used some scrape 1/16” plywood (model airplane parts) as spacers for the fronts. My patience here paid off and everything lined up nicely. While the table saw was setup, I trimmed the top to size.
I used six #10 screws to hold each front on. I drilled all of the holes and inserted the screw with ~1/8” sticking out. Then with the drawer fronts properly spaced, a tap with a mallet marked each screw location. With a depth stop on the drill bit (important), I pre-drilled the holes in the drawer fronts. I settled on some nickel drawer pulls that similar in style to others I’ve seen on antique file cabinets. Any I think they work pretty well.
I have a few touch ups to do, and then a final sanding in preparation for finishing.
-- -Jim, "Society is well governed when its people obey the magistrates, and the magistrates obey the law." -- Solon