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|223 days ago||
As winter approaches, I find myself moving from the tee shirt to adding a flannel shirt over the tee. Eventually it will be thermal under garments. But, I don’t like to have long sleeves near power tools for safety reasons. I am thinking about taking a couple of “work” flannel shirts and cutting off the sleeves so they jus...
|226 days ago||
adding castors / lift mech to workbench? - 9 replies
As I design & build (and re-design) my new bench it is now time to start thinking about adding a method to move the bench. Current plans are for the bench to be against a wall with plywood storage behind it. But, I am sure that there will be the need to move it to the center of the shop, or to get it out of the way of the plywood. Therefo...
|227 days ago||
Workbench catch all tray on back? - 7 replies
I don’t know the correct name for the wooden tray that runs along the back of some workbenches. But, I am thinking of adding one to my (soon to be) new workbench. Is there an official name for this tray?Is there a standard size (width, depth) for the tray?
|228 days ago||
workbench design placement of top rails? - 2 replies
I am sure this will be the first of many questions as I work on designing and building my new workbench. I was given a 24” x 60” solid oak table top. It is made up of laminated strips of oak and finished with a poly(?). I am working on the placement of the legs, in particular the top set of horizontal rails. My first plan was...
|229 days ago||
how should I size tenons? - 4 replies
I am going to build a new workbench this weekend. I plan to use existing 2×4s that I have on my wood rack. I need to get rid of them and make space for “real” wood. I was going to mortise and tenon joinery. My plan calls for through tenons on the horizontal rails connecting the front left leg to the rear left leg. The top j...
|234 days ago||
Anyone who has a drum sander (Performax, Jet, V-Drum, etc.) has long strips of sandpaper in various grits. Mine are 6+’ in length by 3” wide. I am looking for a good way to store the strips and the rolls I cut them from. Currently, I roll them up and use rubber bands. Then I throw them into a cardboard box. Has anyone come u...
|235 days ago||
Prefinished plywood? - 14 replies
Whenever I go my local plywood wholesaler for ply he always offers me prefinished. My understanding is that it has a finish sprayed on both faces. Cost difference is around $8 per sheet. I have never purchased any. Yesterday, while picking up another sheet of 3/4 ply I was offered the prefinished ply. Today as I glue up some drawers and h...
|235 days ago||
About a year ago, a well known nationwide woodworking chain, offered a 4 piece safety set for a good price. Yesterday, I needed a push block and opened one of the sets. I double-sided taped it to the piece and it worked well. But, when I attempted to pull off the block the glue that holds the rubber to the plastic was weaker than the double-s...
|236 days ago||
dealing with raised grain with water based finishes - 11 replies
I have always been taught to sand projects to 320 grit, wet the wood with water, and then sand again to remove the grain that the water raised. This is my first time of seriously using a water based finish. Many years ago, I was given a quart of water based poly and played with it, but I did not like the results. I have been told that water...
|237 days ago||
drying time of water poly? - 9 replies
I am trying out Minwax’s Polycryllic water based finish. On the Internet it said “dries to the touch in two hours.” Today I setup a table in the back yard and tried spraying several pieces of wood. The sun was shining; temperature was 80 F and humidly was 52%. I noticed that by the time I had the sprayer cleaned the wood wa...
|237 days ago||
It seems that my sinuses are getting worse or I am becoming more allergic to wood dust, so my fall shop upgrade project as revolved around improved dust collection. I have upgraded to the Harbor Freight (HF) 2 hp dust collector and I have noticed an improvement in suction. I am now thinking about the Wynn 35a nano cartridge filter. I ha...
|239 days ago||
Name for clear shellac? - 8 replies
I am looking for the correct name to use to refer to shellac that will not change the color of a piece of wood. I want the shellac finish but do not want to tint the wood. Some people call this Blond shellac, yet another distributor has “Super Blond” shellac. When I go to blahblah’s web site what type of shellac should I order?
|242 days ago||
looking for ideas on dust hood for chop saw - 19 replies
My shop improvement project for this fall is Dust Collection. The only stationary (debatable) power tool without dust collection is the sliding compound miter saw (DeWalt 718). I would like ideas on a box to surround the back of the saw. The box’s back can be the wall behind the saw. I plan to use a 4” PVC port.
|243 days ago||
air hose decinagrates, how to prevent next time - 18 replies
I have a small Harbor Freight air compressor that I occasionally use to add air to a tire or power a nail gun. The air compressor, regulator, hoses, etc probably have seen less than 3 hours use since I installed the system about 4 years ago. Recently, I needed to use my 23 gauge pin nailer and so I fired up the air compressor. There was a c...
|246 days ago||
advice on DC piping size - 11 replies
I am upgrading my 1 HP Penn State DC to a 2 HP Harbor Freight. I would like some practical advice on whether I should use 4” PVC tubing and fittings that I already have or upgrade the long run to 5”. I plan to have two “runs” of flexible hose. One will be by the DC. The other will be in the middle of the shop where ...
|248 days ago||
How flat and stable is melamine? - 3 replies
I am working on a new sliding cutoff sled for my table saw. I have a piece of 3/4” melamine I was thinking of using for the base. There would be a 2” high by 1.5” thick maple strip along the back to hold the Kreg track and stop. I have heard that MDF is extremely flat. How about melamine? How will melemine hold up in a...
|249 days ago||
Sliding cutoff table for band saw? - 1 reply
Today I found myself cutting a bunch of small parts out of 1/4” wood and started using my new Grizzly bandsaw for the cuts. This got me thinking about adding a sliding cutoff table instead of using the miter gauge. Has anyone done this?
|249 days ago||
So, this afternoon I decided to make a project from Wood magazine. I pulled out the patterns and took it to my trusty Koday EPS-9250 all-in-one printer. I pushed copy and got a sheet out. So far so good I thought. When I tried to stick it on the wood blank I noticed that the blank was too big. Measured the blank and it was the correct size....
|251 days ago||
Need advice on easy to spray water based poly - 4 replies
Many years ago, as water based finishes were becoming available to hobbyists a store gave me a small bottle of poly. I recall that it was off white liquid with a thick part that kept settling to the bottom. I tried it on some scrap and then a small box and was not the least bit satisfied with the results. Now I find myself with a request to...
|254 days ago||
4/1000s runout on router? - 7 replies
I am doing the fall tool alignment. Table saw was perfect, drill press had no runout, jointer was within 1/1000, then I got to the two router tables. The first router table has runout of about 4/1000s. I used my dial indicator in a miter gauge slot and a 6” stainless steel rod. The rod was advertised as a perfectly straight rod for a...