LumberJocks

Fun with hand saws #2: Sharpening LN

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by JeremyPringle posted 852 days ago 1494 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Bad Axe VS. Lie-Nielsen VS. Veritas Part 2 of Fun with hand saws series Part 3: Them some real Bad Axes Cletus! »

Hopfully you have read the previous blog where I tested three saws. In that test I found how badly I need to sharpen my LN progressive pitch DT saw. And because I am in the midst of cutting lots of dovetails (see my other blog series) I decided that I should take a break and sharpen the saw before continuing. So that is what I did.

The first thing I did was to clamp the saw between two pieces of cherry with just the teeth sticking out, this way there is little to no vibration on the plate.

Here is the file that I use. It is a 4” extra slim file.

I then took a sharpie and marked all the teeth, so while I am filing I can see what and where I am filing.

Then starting at the back and working my way to the front I take two strokes on every other tooth. Because this is a rip saw, I try as hard as I can to keep the file straight and square with no angle. Then I flip the saw over and do two strokes on the teeth that I skipped the first time.

Once I was done, I double checked to make sure there were no ‘flat’ spots on any of the teeth, if there were then I would have needed to do one or two more strokes on each tooth. But there were no flats, and each tooth was filed to a point. I could tell just touching it that it was nice and sharp.

I then took the same piece of cherry that I did all my testing on from the previous entry to this series and did the tests again using only this saw to see how the results changed. Starting the saw into the kerf was just as easy as ever, and it still looked the same when I was done. But, instead of 12 strokes to go 1”, it took between 8 and 9. Thats a 3-4 stroke improvment! Bringing it right inline with the BA and the V. I also noted that it was no where near as catchy as before at the 3/4 mark either, but it still did a few times. I found if the saw did catch at about the 3/4 mark it took 9 strokes, and if it did not it took 8. This is something that I think I am going to concious of in the future. But I am curious to know if anyone else has this issue?

Thanks again for reading.
Jeremy



1 comment so far

View tsangell's profile

tsangell

209 posts in 1325 days


#1 posted 852 days ago

One of your teeth may be set a bit heavier than the others. If you very lightly stone the sides of the saw, you’ll feel it catch on the problem tooth. Be careful not to remove too much of the set, or to unbalance the set. If you do, these are problems you can fix but that is another discussion.

Or, it could be a technique issue, if you’re using too much muscle. Heavier toothed saws tend to catch more, and you’re transitioning from a fine toothed saw to a heavier tooth with each stroke. Let the saw float through the cut.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase