Most of the body is now shaped, but a couple more areas I like to touch.
The corner of the 3/8 base plate is still at a 90 . . . .
. . . . so I round it to match the wood body and eliminate a sharp corner.
I also round over the top of the escapement area a bit to eliminate that corner, as well. No picture of what it looked like, but these are the areas that get some attention.
Now it’s just a matter of sanding everything to whatever level you desire. Don’t forget the metal around the mouth, where it gets scratched by the files when working the mouth.
I sand both the wood and metal up to 180, taking into account what direction I want the scratch pattern to be on the metal. You’ll also want to make sure to knock down any sharp metal edges with a couple sanding passes.
Make sure to use different pieces of sandpaper, though, or you’ll get black metal dust into the grain of the wood. If you want a fully polished look on the metal, feel free, just know that the unhardened O1 will scratch very easily. That’s one of the reasons I keep it with a brushed look.
After sanding, finish is applied
Once finish is dry, everything gets a coat of wax and the plane can be assembled . . .
. . . and tested
Sometimes, shooting end grain just gives dust, but if you are getting shavings, then everything is definitely working correctly.
Especially if they are see through.
Whew! That’s it, we’re done. It’s quite a bit of work, but there is definitely a satisfaction to using tools you’ve made yourself that can’t be matched. Hope this blog series helps some of you that wish to build your own shooting planes. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to post them in the comments and I’ll answer what I can.
If you do build one, please post it as a project. I’d love to see what variations others come up with.
-- Pay heed all who enter: Beware of "the Phog" Rock Chalk, Jayhawk