Delta T2 Fence #6: How to setup and install on a Craftsman tablesaw

Since I have installed the Delta T2 fence on my Craftsman tablesaw, I have had a few people asking how I installed it, especially, how I installed the fence so that it would zero properly. For those that are thinking about installing this fence on a craftsman, you WILL have to drill new holes in the rails. You can use one of the existing holes, but you will not be able to ‘0’ the fence.

I wish that I had taken pictures of each step to further clarify the information listed below. Looking back now I realize that it would have helped quite a few people. I may be able to do some sketches and post them here…

First, I went ahead and attached the square tubing to the front rail. Then with a pencil, I made a mark on the front rail at ‘0’ on the measuring tape that is attached to the square tubing.

Then, I disassembled the front rail and tubing. I had a ‘0’ reference point on the front rail from the previous step. I placed both front and back rails together so that I could get my ‘0’ reference point transferred from the front rail to the back rail.

Next, I placed the fence on the tablesaw and moved it to where the zero position would be (against the blade), as if the fence was actually attached, making sure to square the fence with the table. The T2 fence has a plexiglass (or clear plastic) sight where you read the attached measuring tape through. I made a mark on the table where the reference line on the sight was. I then drew a line at that point on the saw top from the front to the back, of course making sure that the line was square to the table.

Next, I layed the front rail on the top of the saw, matching up the ‘0’ reference mark on the rail to the line that I drew on the saw table top. I then measured 1.75 inches from each side of the saw table and drew a line on the front rail for each. I did the same for the center of the table at 10”. I then did the same for the rear rail.

I then drilled the holes. I actually offset the holes a bit higher and did not align them with the existing holes that were in the rails because I wanted to make sure that the fence was as close to the table as it would go without scraping across the table when you moved it or riding too high above the table. The fence sides are adjustable up and down, so you do have a bit of tweaking there too. If you look at the blog, you will notice in the fourth picture down on the before and after pictures, that the holes that mount the rail are up slightly from the original holes.

Once you mount the rails and put the fence on, you may have to adjust the plexiglass sight on the fence a little. It is adjustable side to side, but when I installed it, I barely had to make any adjustment to it at all.

Like I said before, I really was really worried that I would mess it up, but if you take your time and make sure that all of your measurements are accurate, everything will work out fine. All I can say is that it made a 200% improvement on the tablesaw. I have been using it now for a few weeks and it is extremely accurate. It’s nice being able to set the fence on a measurement, and not have to double check the fence to the blade to ensure that what it says is what it’s going to cut.

I am by no means an expert at installing table saw fences, and really, I was taking a big chance on messing up the fence and it eventually not being usable (or returnable). I took my time thinking about how I could accomplish the installation. There may be a better way to install this fence on a craftsman tablesaw, but this way worked for me.

Hope this helps… as stated above, you will have to drill all new holes in the rails to get it to work right.

-- Jamie, Kentucky