|View Jack_Isidore's:||home||workshop||projects (3)||blog (0)||reviews (2)||forum topics (16)||buddies (0)||favorites (3)||activity log|
|84 days ago||
Veneer mills that supply paperbacked exotics? - 0 replies
I was curious if anyone knows of some veneer mills that would be willing to work with a direct consumer (actually for business use but not in quantities to qualify as wholesale, I think). My local lumber yard can special order some walnut burl but it’s $$$ and it’s a crapshoot of what it looks like. I have been using one particular o...
|150 days ago||
Mirka Ceros to Festool CT 36 (or any Festool DE) - 2 replies
I purchased a Mirka Ceros ROS and have been using it with my regular old shop vac. This is pretty awkward because the Mirka has a threaded 1-1/4” female connector, and all I have on my shop vac is a 1” slip on connector. I can get it in there, but it doesn’t hold very well, and I’m afraid to force it, lest I mess up the t...
|231 days ago||
Surbuf buffing pads - 2 replies
Anyone ever used these? They’re hook and loop foam pads with a stiff bristle on the buffing side. I came across them at Woodcraft today (about $5 cheaper for two 5.5” than on the site). http://www.surbuf.com/Surbuf-R-Series-Applicator-And-Buffing-Pads.asp I recently picked up a couple of 3M hook and loop buffing pads (wool and ...
|385 days ago||
Gluing paperbacked veneer back to back - 2 replies
Hi, I’m trying to glue some paperbacked veneer back to back, that is the paper back of one sheet glued to the paper back of another sheet. Reason being I need veneer sheet stock about 40-50 mils, and the only good selection of veneers I have been able to find are either ~20 mil thick, or in some cases 30-35 mil (still not thick enough and ...
|391 days ago||
Efficient setup for taking stock to thin thicknesses - 25 replies
I would like to take raw lumber stock to thicknesses in the range of .045-.050” (or just over 1 mm). The boards are about 4.5” wide by 24” in length, but the length could be reduced is it makes the process much easier. I realize my first step will be a bandsaw with a resawing blade to take it close. How close can you get it ...
|651 days ago||
I just bought a Fuji mini-mite 3 HVLP system and I’m dying to use it. If I could only find the finish I’m looking for… I cannot find water borne pigmented lacquer (white) locally in Austin. ML Campbell doesn’t have a distributor in Austin. Sherwin Williams stores in Austin don’t carry Aqua KEM, and they even told...
|670 days ago||
White lacquer finish (without HVLP sprayer) - 22 replies
I have always seen nicer white furniture and cabinetry advertised as “lacquered” so, I’m assuming there are good reasons for choosing this over enamel. Is the spray Rustoleum or Krylon white lacquer any good? The piece I’m using it on isn’t going to be a masterpiece or anything, but want to avoid drips, runs, or ...
|764 days ago||
I’m taking a tig welding course over the summer in the hopes of using steel (and maybe aluminum) for components in some mostly wood furniture. So far, all I can find locally is structural steel tubing, which has a larger radius than you see on furniture tubing. Any ideas on particular suppliers, or a better google search term? I’ve g...
|770 days ago||
Wax application questions (Renaissance Wax) - 6 replies
Two brief questions for those of you experienced with Renaissance wax (or maybe wax in general). I am applying this to walnut finished with Deft Danish Oil. I can’t seem to find a good answer to what you apply the wax with. One person mentioned synthetic steel wool (0000?) and then buffing with soft rag. Other people don’t mention...
|782 days ago||
CA glue for filling knots/cracks - 18 replies
I was taught a method of filling knots and tearout with a CA glue and sawdust mixture. This method entailed mixing the sawdust with the CA glue on a separate surface, and then filling this paste into the knot which had been masked off from the rest of the wood. After a few minutes you remove the masking tape and then in a few more minutes itR...
|800 days ago||
Tooling for woodworking on metalworking lathe - 12 replies
What sort of cutting tool should I use on a metalworking lathe? Buying a woodworking lathe is out of the question at the moment, and I probably don’t even want to setup a tool post just yet. In older, related posts, people said they’ve had luck turning wood on metalworking lathes, using the x-y controls and tool holder. I typicall...
|801 days ago||
Help with through tenons - 10 replies
I’m making a pair of night tables (model view attached), and am to the point of cutting the through mortises for the legs. I have a question about shoulder width, and a request for general advise. First of all, the legs are 1-1/8×1-1/8, and I wasn’t sure what would be a good shoulder width. As it is now, I plan on having shoulde...
|808 days ago||
I am trying to use a dual action air sander here at work to sand some panels, but I’m having trouble where the thickness is being tapered off near the edges. Besides simply trying to keep the sander parallel to the workpiece, and not letting it extend too far out, does anyone have any tips to avoid this, and how I might be able to fix it n...
|831 days ago||
Typical veneering substrates? Solid hardwood? - 17 replies
I’m considering a larger project, a bed or a large book case. I like walnut but I’m currently making two night stands out of solid Walnut, and as small as they are, it’s >$200 worth of lumber. I cannot foresee being able to afford a larger project out of solid Walnut anytime soon, so I’m considering giving veneering a sho...
|850 days ago||
Leather feet pads - 16 replies
I am currently designing a pair of night stands and wanted to incorporate leather pads on the bottom of the feet. I was talking with my woodworking instructor and he mentioned he puts leather on the bottom of the feet so if the table is on an unlevel floor, it isn’t quite so noticeable. On these tables, I was considering drilling out a ...
|1018 days ago||
Waterlox finishing issue / introducing myself - 10 replies
Hello all. I’m a new woodworker. I recently finished school (mechanical engineering) and have decided to use my new-found time and money for this great hobby which was my father’s as well. I’ve taken beginning and intermediate woodworking at my local community college and I am planning on taking the third and final course in...