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Beginner Questionaire for JN1C3 #1: First ??? "Glue Lines"

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Blog entry by Jason™ posted 698 days ago 1016 reads 0 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Beginner Questionaire for JN1C3 series Part 2: Beginner Questionaire for JN1C3 #2: »

Here goes my first of many and I do mean many…..

Glue Lines

It seems to be hard for me to get my glue lines to disappear. I sand and sand trying to get them to go away but can’t seem to eliminate them.

The mallet I made, on the top where I put in my splines it looked great at first but then the next day I came to see my dried glue item. They are very faint but can still be seen until I put few coats polyurethane. I noticed some black marks also but this may be from the cheap soft wood I used for a recipe that called for hardwood.

1. To sum up I use probably a thicker coat of glue then needed and soon after I clamp I wipe with a damp cloth?
Using (Elmer’s WoodGlue Max – Interior exterior. Can’t be the brand right?

2. Some put saw dust on dripping glue is this better than trying to wipe away excess before it dries with wet rag?

3. These folks who do the 8 different kinds of wood on one cutting board, box.Or the super crazy good tables with like 100 different glue ups!! that the guy calls (GeoMatriX) There is no secret other than perfectly planed wood or jointed.??

answering a number will be easier on the both of us if possible

Thanks so much everyone who encouraged me to bother everyone with my noob questions. I promise no more for a few days after this….. well maybe

-- Im all night long!! all night .. all night .. ALL NIGHT LONG



12 comments so far

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10406 posts in 1273 days


#1 posted 698 days ago

We love questions! Don’t know about Elmer’s as I use Titebond. I never wipe wet squeeze out off, rather I let it get almost dry and then scrape it off with a paint scraper (scrape at the ‘hard booger’ stage).

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Jason™'s profile

Jason™

85 posts in 710 days


#2 posted 698 days ago

ok thank you for your input any time you might see a project or something and they say its from a March 91 wood mag or something like that and want to know more about it which you probably don’t actually need to know all the details but if you do. I have pretty well all of them that I can somehow send them by email or ??? only through computer no stamp type stuff though. There in PDF format

Thanks (Gfadvm)

-- Im all night long!! all night .. all night .. ALL NIGHT LONG

View Gary's profile

Gary

6849 posts in 2016 days


#3 posted 698 days ago

A suggestion. Before you put the glue on the edges, put the edges together and see how tight the joint will be. You may not be getting your edges really ready for glue-up
Hey Andy, is that “hard booger” stage a techinical term?

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View woodshaver's profile

woodshaver

2717 posts in 1936 days


#4 posted 698 days ago

I need a tissue now Gary! And it’s not for cleaning hard boogers..I’m LOL so hard my eyes are crying!
I too uses Tight Bond 11 and 111. If you use water to clean up the glue it may dilute the glue and make it absorb into the grain. I do what gfadvm does using a scraper when the glue is like gum! Or you can use a razor blade.

-- Tony C , My high school shop teacher said "You can do it"... Now I can't stop!

View DaleM's profile

DaleM

891 posts in 1967 days


#5 posted 698 days ago

I wouldn’t worry about the glue lines where your joints come together. Believe me, you will see dozens of “mistakes” or “problems” that you think really stand out, but no one else will probably see them at all. Yes, it’s possible to have really tight joints and you will have more of them with practice, but even on a good day, if you make a lot of doors or face frames, some of them will have noticeable glue lines or even have small gaps that need putty in them (hopefully on the back).
1. I just bought some Elmer’s interior/exterior for the first time and it seems comparable to Tightbond II so no problem there. If you are using darker woods, you may want to use Tightbond III because it dries darker.

2. Ggadvm (Andy) already covered this and number 1 with his answer. I guess sawdust would help to dry the glue faster so you could chisel it away, but seems like a waste of time to me.

3. Yes and no. Some of those cutting boards may be perfect, but I know all of them aren’t. The gaps will get smaller with practice, and how much of a glue line will show will depend on you, as in are you willing to let it go or will you remake the project to fix errors. I’m something of a perfectionist so it’s really hard for me to be a professional woodworker, working for someone else and getting paid by the hour. I want everything to be perfect and spend way too much time trying to fix things that the customer will not even notice or care about. (I know this because of all the times I don’t think I matched a color close enough, or couldn’t quite get the gaps around the cabinet doors just right or drawers exactly straight, etc., but he customer just loved the cabinets anyway).

Anyway, keep building things and keep asking questions and learning and sooner than you think, you’ll be the one answering the noob’s questions on here.

-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY

View Alongiron's profile

Alongiron

401 posts in 1276 days


#6 posted 698 days ago

Not sure if you are using a jointer or not but….your saw may not be giving you a perfect cut. If this is the case; you could leave a small gap. When you try to fill this gap with glue and then sand…..that glue joint will stand out.

-- Measure twice and cut once.....

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10406 posts in 1273 days


#7 posted 698 days ago

Gary- I need to Google “hard booger” to see what comes up (but you have to admit it was descriptive).

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Arookar's profile

Arookar

79 posts in 985 days


#8 posted 698 days ago

Yes- I think the “secret” to a tight glue joint is perfectly square edges on both boards and good clamps. Check the “joint” before you glue…the boards you join should fit together perfectly. If they don’t then work on those edges till they do. Keep them crisp….And DON’T sand them to get them tight. Sanding at this stage will only make the joint bigger by rounding the edges off. use a jointer or hand plane.
Don’t worry about glue squeeze out at first- if you remember to scrape it off when it’s rubbery that’s great, if not, oh well. Sanding and scraping is part of the fun, right?

-- The only gift is a portion of thyself. -Ralph Waldo Emerson, writer and philosopher (1803-1882)

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4807 posts in 1381 days


#9 posted 698 days ago

At the risk of sounding to some like a broken record, you could try hot hide glue. It’s gluelines actually shrink as the joint dries and it doesn’t seal the wood against stain and you can wipe it off with water almost immediately and you often don’t need clamps and if you mess up it’s reversible….etc., etc., etc.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View DeLayne Peck's profile

DeLayne Peck

329 posts in 785 days


#10 posted 698 days ago

Picked up a tip somewhere suggesting the use of plastic soda straws for removing gummy, boogery glue. I have tried it and it works well enough. But I usually reach for a pocket knife or a cheap chisel to scrap glue.

AND, chase me around and swat me for saying this, but I keep a large a large ketchup bottle filled with water in the shop and paper towels in the shop. I have never run into problems removing fresh glue from a clamped joint with a damp paper towel.

Best practise, avoid squeeze out in the first place, practise and use moderation. Rockler’s new blue glue brush works beautifully. Compared to a soda straw? The straw is better for getting that hard booger out of your nose.

-- DJ Peck, Lincoln Nebraska. I think of my shop as Fritter City. I am the Mayor.

View tsangell's profile

tsangell

207 posts in 1276 days


#11 posted 698 days ago

It took me some practice to get “invisible” glue joints: sharpening and using a hand plane, gluing and clamping.

You’re already starting the practice, and for a mallet you’re probably fine – structurally speaking.

View Jason™'s profile

Jason™

85 posts in 710 days


#12 posted 697 days ago

All I can say is WOW I would of never thought I would get this many tips on a simple question on here from so many different people. Trying to thank each and everyone who commented would be a bit more than im up to this morning. Instead I will pick my 2 favorite answers.

2. The answer given by Arookar Hate to say this but I need to bring one of the old hand planes my pap gave me awhile back. Should of done this way sooner being’s I hear SO much about them.. Thanks

1. My favorite would be the well detailed and specifically requested comment wrote by Dale M. Seems like you answered as you read my blog and stuck to my requests in your entire comment. I am very aware of the problem I am having and I do need to address certain things before I begin assembly.

Thank you all for all the support you’s have gave me.
Having 10 comments from people on such a simple question is really helpful to get all kinds of ideas. I wish though others couldn’t see what comments have been given. I would probably read the same answer though 5 times in row with different wording but all in all. I have some work to do and am goin to get that one of the 2 planes given to me out and try and bring them back to life. The cleaning up part won’t really be the challenge for me as to getting it to perform correctly when put back together.

Thanks Everyone!!!!
Jason

-- Im all night long!! all night .. all night .. ALL NIGHT LONG

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