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    <title>James Lango's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:22:28 GMT</pubDate>
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      <title>Keeping kiln dried lumber DRY.</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/7489</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Here&#8217;s my question:
     I live in north east OHIO. The 15&#215;30 outdoor shed also serves as a my dehumidification kiln.  Kiln itself is 15&#215;6, insulated, heated and sectioned off from the main storage area.  It is a gambrel type shed/barn.  I can dry smaller loads of harwood in my kiln.  After the batch is dry enough for use, the next load has to go in.  How long can I store the DRY load above in the sheds attic?(Gambrel roof design allows me to stand up in the middle, I can store alot of wood up there)
 The dried wood is in the 6-9%MC range.  Is it possible for the dry load to re-absorb moisture?<br />Think about this;  You can buy dried hardwood from Lowes, HomeD, lumber yards etc&#8230; They have the lumber sitting in isles, on store shelves etc.  Have you ever though about how long those particular boards have been sitting on the store shelves?  <br />When you walk into those huge stores, the relative humidity is pretty much equal to the outdoor enviroment. &#8220;equalibrium&#8221; <br />So DOES wood re-absord?<br />Thinking further- Store bought lumber has to make the journey from kiln to wholesaler, to retailer.  Sometimes traveling by train, truck etc. And again spends some time sitting on shelves before being bought.</p>


	<p>So will the wood go from say 7% to 10-15% in a matter of days, weeks, months, or never?<br />Many times when i buy wood for a project, it sits for a few weeks before use.  And I know my &#8220;garage shop&#8221; is not less than 30%humidity.</p>


	<p>Very confusing when you think about the science behind it.  Please help.  Thank you  JAMES- Ohio</p>]]>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:22:28 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/7489</guid>
      <author>James Lango</author>
      <dc:creator>James Lango</dc:creator>
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    <item>
      <title>Spraying  a finish- stain</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/6559</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Can anyone give me advice on spraying on stain.<br />Every project I ever built was always hand stained.  Now i hear/read more and more about spaying stain on.  It seems to have its advantages, even coat, and less time consuming.  From what i read, I would spray a stain on then rub off the excess.   Can someone share their ideas or tips with me?  I have a small (1/2 quart) spray gun and compressor- used for auto paint.  Can i use that? If so- is HIGH pressure OK to spray stain?  OR do i have to go HVLP?   Would appreciate your tips and ideas  THANK YOU</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 01 Dec 2008 04:49:44 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/6559</guid>
      <author>James Lango</author>
      <dc:creator>James Lango</dc:creator>
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    <item>
      <title>Wood Working Bench, Shop</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/5999</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Does anyone have any good sites to go to for a basic woodworkers vise.  The long one that you mount to the bench with a huge block on one side.  Maybe its called a Swedish screw vise??  About 12-24&#8221; long.  When you see a really nice work bench, it will usually have at least one of these.  I would like to build another bench of different woods, huge dovetails etc..  I remember seeing them for sale somewhere, at a good price, other times you&#8217;ll see a similar one for ALOT more. <br />any suggestions on where to look?  thanks&#8230;</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:52:58 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/5999</guid>
      <author>James Lango</author>
      <dc:creator>James Lango</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Milling Cherry</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/5991</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Does anyone know what is the MAX width of certain hardwoods?  The most accomodating to resist warp and cup?  An old guy once told me that he was able to mill Elm 14&#8221; wide boards because Elm is very stable and resists warp/cup.  Should you stick around the 4-6&#8221; range for Cherry? Or can you go wider?<br />Different woods have certain characteristics and someone out there knows.. Any advice?  thanks</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 22 Sep 2008 05:33:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/JLango/blog/5991</guid>
      <author>James Lango</author>
      <dc:creator>James Lango</dc:creator>
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