Milling Cherry

I think it also has something to do with how you mill it, flitch versus quarter sawn etc. . . Although the species is likely relevant as well.

I’m not a sawyer but I did stay at a holiday inn once.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

Yes, how you mill it makes a huge difference in stability. Quarter sawn is the most stable, then rift sawn and then flat sawn. Because of the way its’ milled quarter sawn and rift sawn boards have a maximum width of less than half the diameter of the tree. Flat sawn boards can theoretically go up to almost the full diameter of the tree.

Theres always been ways to combat cupping. Like old table tops and doors with ridiculously wide boards that incorporated a batten system. Some stay trouble free for hundreds of years. So there really is no limit depending on application and ability to counteract. Which reminds me of a 30” wide jointer i saw once in a guys shop in New Orleans.

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

The wider the better IMO. Cupping while drying would be your only problem, should you have one. Worst case instead of that 20” board you milled you have 2- 10”s after you rip the board. Some species (like cherry since you asked) in larger logs will lay flat, smaller logs even narrow boards will want to cup. So mill them thicker and plan on planing the cup out.
I can mill 24” wide…do it every chance I get. 12”-18” is a common width for me.
Some species just move more than others (sweet gum, persimmon…) others lay flat for you like walnut. Like I said size of the tree too, even the way it grew a “leaner” will have more stress that a good straight up tree.
And was mentioned 1/4 sawing is more stable, but no guarantee by any means.

So to answer, it depends. I know that was not at all a definitive answer…but there is not one.

-- Urban logger, http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/

“flitch versus quarter sawn”..........not quite correct. “Flitch” is a word used on veneer being that each piece comes from the same log and is generally bookmatched and sequenced. There are three ways to saw a log, actually four. Flat sawn, rift sawn and quarter sawn. the rift and quarter sawn yields the least warpage and shrinkage (as a rule) and in cherry most often yields the best figure having ribbon etc.

I much prefer my boards as wide as possible because you can always rip them again but you cant make them bigger once sawn smaller.

Stack, sticker and clamp….......and then walk away for a few years because as a rule air dried lumber needs one year plus a year for every inch of thickness to dry.

Just an observation. Old tables with wide boards are “old growth” timber which is quite a bit different in its characteristics then “new growth” timber. Grain lines are so tight they are difficult to count, they are also flater ) pending where in the log it comes from)...............I digress but suffice to say that a board taken from an 18” dia log is quite dofferent then one taken from a 4’ diameter log.

Regardless, cherry doesnt get that old, the odd tree might be 100 years old but those are often hollow and rotten in the middle. Most cherry trees are cut at around 25 to 50 years old. .......mill them as wide as possible and remember that the pith is useless so when some boards are wide and look pretty when freshly sawn…..a year later the center is pulpy…..the pith. Also the sap wood, IMHO is white and I personally dont care for the colour. This is just one of many reasons the wood is prized beyond its beauty.

Cheers

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

Roman is right. Anytime you can use rift/qtr-sawn material, you’ll have less stability problems. However, since rift and quarter sawing lumber is less efficient for sawmills, the per BF cost is higher than plain-sawn stock. When you consider the aggravation caused by warping and cupping, it’s usually well worth the premium.

-- www.atlaslumber.com/current-news.asp

Thanks guys!! All the advice is appreciated. Usually I’m flat sawing because it’s the easiest for me.
Darren I’m going to check out those site you listed, thanks alot..

-- Longovette@Roadruner.com