So this blogs covers today’s board…
For a change, I started with some nice wide timber. No scraps in this board. This is Yellowheart and Tigerwood:
Cut into 1.5” by 26” strips (but I should have made them a bit longer). I don’t plan real well on the front end….4 of each color.
“V” cutter bit in the router table:
Cut V’s into 2 strips of each color:
Cut one square profile of each color – they were much larger than they needed to be but easier to square up, and it really helps if they really are square for the next step:
Glued up the same colored strips with the opposite colored square profile:
Forget to film, but ripped each of these down the middle of the square profile on the band saw to be planed later.
Next up, ripped some 5/8” square profiles that will be turned into dowels using the Veritas Dowel and Tenon cutter:
Here is the cutter in the vise:
Plus a couple shots of the process:
And a video of the dowel cutting HERE.
Put a 1/2” Round Nose bit in the table:
Cut half rounds in the other 4 strips:
Test fit with the dowels:
Glue the dowels in the half rounds:
Forgot to film, but now all the strips (round and diamond) are run thru the planer. And if you followed all of that, you will have 4 sets of shapes to glue up. Only glue each pair together, not the whole set:
Not shown, but the strips are cleaned up in the planer…...just be sure you keep everything centered! Then each 26” strip is cut in half…...now there are eight:
My first inclination was to glue them up in this configuration:
But in the end, I glued them up this way:
Also glued the Padauk “border” piece on the outside and left them long to help prevent snipe for the next step…...flatten it out, but easy does it here, take shallow cuts:
I use the radial arm saw because I get real square cuts, so here is the squared up blank:
I was originally going to cut 10 strips out of the blank, but they were just a little to thin (should have started with longer boards!) so I cut 8 strips and they were a bit thicker than I would normally cut (about 1.6”). I have a jig for the RAS for cutting these:
I was hoping to get this pattern which alternates the shapes in both directions, but the grain doesn’t match up that nice:
Also could have done this, which alternates color more:
This was the final choice, right or wrong:
I think this next step is really essential for a nice glue-up…..run the segments over some PSA sandpaper on a flat surface (MDF here). Use pencil marks and sand until they’re gone:
The parts should be tight without clamps:
Test clamp everything before the final glue-up…..I needed a few shims because things don’t always line up on there own:
To speed things up for glue, I flip all the glue faces up and clamp them together lightly and spread the glue on all of them at once:
Because this board has a border on it, I had to cut little pieces of Padauk to finish the border on the last 2 sides of the board, use the the same setup in the RAS so the height is the same:
These little bits were all cut to the same width of the strips so there is 8 little pieces to glue to each side…...kind of a pain, especially if you want to keep track of the grain and locations…...I ended up using wide blue tape to keep them in line, which also made the glue-up pretty simple:
If you are lucky enough to have a drum sander, fire it up. Mine is half home made, but works good:
Not shown, squared up all four edges on the RAS.
I used the chamfer bit for this one:
I was able to get the bottom side chamfered really close to the transition point where the border meets the main board:
Still needs tons of sanding…....8 grits with the ROS:
I’m sure you bailed long before you got here, but if not, thanks for looking…....
-- Jeff - I have not failed. I've just found 10,001 ways that won't work.