Ignition is via a 100,000 volt stun gun connected to the electrodes. The stun gun has a sliding on/off switch on the left side, and a momentary contact rocker switch on the right. I carefully pried the rocker switch body out of the housing and disconnected the wires. I then removed the guts from the switch housing, cut out a small rectangle of acrylic the same size as the bezel on the switch housing, drilled a hole in it big enough for the lamp wire I’m using for a remote switch, and super glued it to the switch housing. I tied both pieces of the lamp wire in a knot, down close to the ends, and soldered them to the switch wires. I then pulled the lamp wires back out until the knot was inside the switch housing, and snapped the housing back into the stun gun.
On the other end of the lamp wires, about 8’ long, I made up a pushbutton handle like a game show buzzer with some 3/4” PVC, 2 caps, and a pushbutton switch (again from McMaster-Carr).
I used butt connectors to crimp pieces of 10 gage wire to the stun gun terminals, and ran the wires to the electrodes. The stun gun is held to the cannon with a hose clamp. The connections are covered in a thick coating of liquid electrical tape.
Here’s a shot of the arc. You can really hear it crackling inside the tube; it amplifies the sound like a drum. As of this moment, the gun is now, technically “shootable”, but there’s still more to do.
Next installment: forward armor plating.
-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln