LumberJocks

Internet Woodworker Podcast and Video #7: Ep 16 A new Blade for the old no. 7

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Shawn Sealer posted 1070 days ago 951 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Short Update No. 6 Welcoming the Triton Router to the shop. Part 7 of Internet Woodworker Podcast and Video series Part 8: Ep. 18 Matt's Halloween Router Bowl Part 1 »

In this episode:
Replacing the old blade with a Hock blade
www.hocktools.com

-- -Shawn



2 comments so far

View stevenmadden's profile

stevenmadden

174 posts in 1725 days


#1 posted 1068 days ago

Hi Shawn,

The thing I noticed is that you did not flatten your stones before or during the sharpening process. Of course, you may have done this off screen, but with the amount of lapping you did to the back of the blade, there was sure to be a “valley” in the stone which would create a “belly” on the back of the blade. Something else to try would be to alternate your stroke. The way you showed would be one way, although I would start with the tip of the blade off the edge of the stone, then while using the stroke you showed move onto the stone, and then back off of the stone (in other words, move left to right while using the back and forth motion). The second motion would be to stand behind the blade with the tip facing away from you, move the blade tip on and off the stone (it would be moving in a perpendicular motion in relation to the stone, which is opposite of the motion you demonstrated), while traversing the stone from left to right and back again, then flip the stone and repeat. I would flatten the stone when switching from stoke #1 to stroke #2. You can watch the scratch pattern after switching strokes and that will help you see how flat the back really is. It is impossible to create a flat blade with a stone that is not flat.

Also, there is a great angle setting jig that can easily be made (here it is: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/AngleSettingJig.pdf), which would help you to achieve the same angle when you go back to re-sharpen the bevel side of the blade and/or create a secondary bevel.

One last thing, the rust you mentioned can easily be prevented by wiping down the blade after sharpening with a light weight oil such as jojoba or camellia (it is also a good idea to wipe the tool itself with the oil after each use).

Thank you for taking the time to post your video. I hope that I did not offend you by posting these observations.

Steve

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11644 posts in 2324 days


#2 posted 1065 days ago

Shaun ,Thanks for the video and thanks for the tips from Skarp and Steve : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase