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Thien Baffle on the fly project #4: day 4

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Blog entry by Holbs posted 03-04-2014 01:52 AM 848 reads 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: day 3 Part 4 of Thien Baffle on the fly project series Part 5: run test of Thien Baffle »

Found out, I have a 6” inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7” like I “assumed” I had. Luckily, I have 6” HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7” to 6”. I also cut out a 14” with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works :) Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.



13 comments so far

View WoodES's profile

WoodES

20 posts in 381 days


#1 posted 03-04-2014 04:33 AM

Well that just sucks! Congratulations….

Always fun when the project throws a curveball.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

541 posts in 720 days


#2 posted 03-04-2014 05:04 AM

now i’m trying to figure out how to use standard HVAC 6” wye’s for dust collection. I now understand the talk about HVAC is flowing forward and dust collection is backwards for connections. Didnt make sense before. But do not want to give up because $3 per 6” x 6” x 6” HVAC wye versus $30 6” x 6” x 6” duct collection wye is a deal breaker. For anyone else who does not understand the difference, I took a picture:

the suction from the dust collector would have to be right, your mains to the left and a branch off the bottom. notice the divots. divots are designed to be the male end connectors as you slide your 6” main with it’s female end over the divots. this leaves gaps along the inside of the airstream. this could be bad.
i’m thinking of ways to make it work. maybe, pounds something circular with a bevel to spread out the divot end enough for the female connection. or cut a slit or two to help with expansion. will try tomorrow.

View WoodES's profile

WoodES

20 posts in 381 days


#3 posted 03-04-2014 05:28 AM

Seems like any leakage could be fixed with duct tape. After all, duct tape is the universal solution….

I think there are female couplings available that may do the trick. That would eliminate all but one of the backwards fittings.

I had to make up a male – mail metal coupler for the transition drop to the table saw. Found a fitting that fit both the 6” pvc and the 6” hose. I rigged up a support to take the weight of the hose. Works well.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

541 posts in 720 days


#4 posted 03-04-2014 05:33 AM

i’m not worried about leakage… I did buy that grey pasty stuff for sealing seams & joints. I’m concerned about buildup on the inside. The divots could be anywhere from 0” to 1/2” off the female connecting end wall, depending on how out-of-round the 2 connection ends are. This would “snag” airflow (how much? i’m unsure if it even matters) and could snag shavings and build up like…tooth tartar :)

couplings… hmm… that is the answer :) so simple! I’ll just cut a 4” piece and make my own coupler. I would just have to make my divots more pronounced to slide into the existing machined divots. thinking naw…wouldnt work. I’ll just probably cut 4 slits on the divots and man handle my male connecting end then grey goob the crap out of it.

View WoodES's profile

WoodES

20 posts in 381 days


#5 posted 03-04-2014 05:36 AM

Periodically tap it with a broom handle with the dust collector on.

With a little work, the male end can be spread. Worth a try at that price…

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

541 posts in 720 days


#6 posted 03-05-2014 03:37 AM

a little HVAC tape, and i should be good to go. and maybe some strap tension to seat it more…suitably.

View WoodES's profile

WoodES

20 posts in 381 days


#7 posted 03-05-2014 03:37 AM

Used the bigger hammer solution, I like it….

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

541 posts in 720 days


#8 posted 03-05-2014 03:41 AM

I had sheet metal shears (work related). I cut 4 slits and whalla. I do have to manually crimp the male end. But instead of crimping 360 degrees around the male end, I crimp about 2” here…2” here…2” there, just enough for it to slide in with some elbow grease. Found out, if you crimp a male end alot or at a angle, the male end gets really distorted inside the female end.
I do not think grey goop stuff alone will hold 2 pieces together? I think it’s just a sealant, not adhesive? Maybe I will have to get HVAC tape as well. Or a couple pan head sheet metal screws (1/4” length)

View hotncold's profile

hotncold

508 posts in 235 days


#9 posted 03-05-2014 03:43 AM

Holbs – This is not hard to correct. I used the same fittings on my system and they are designed to move air “away” from the furnace blower. That is why the crimped ends are on the “downstream” side of the wye fitting. The dust collector sucks the air back toward the blower and that makes the crimped ends on the wrong side of the wye.
Just use a pair of tin snips and cut the “crimp” off of the wye. Then you will need a crimper to “re-crimp” the wye on the large end (the end nearest the dust collector). You will need to do this on all of these fittings and then I would seal the joints with the sealer that you discussed.
Only a couple of inexpensive tools are required for this.
I hope this helps.

-- Dennie - Tennessee - Every Pro was once an Amateur. Every Expert was once a Beginner. So dream Big and start Now!

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

541 posts in 720 days


#10 posted 03-05-2014 03:58 AM

duh. why didnt i think of that , Hot :) I’ll do a test cut and see. I’m concerned about the band of raised metal, if i cut off the crimped ends… how well can I crimp that band?

View hotncold's profile

hotncold

508 posts in 235 days


#11 posted 03-05-2014 04:37 AM

Holbs – cut that band off. Stay as close as possible but you don’t want to crimp through that raised bead. There will still be enough metal left to crimp and connect. Also, on the large end of the wye, you don’t need to cut anything…just crimp.
Malco Products makes a 5 blade crimper that is perfect for doing this job. You can find them at any HVAC Wholesaler or on Amazon.

-- Dennie - Tennessee - Every Pro was once an Amateur. Every Expert was once a Beginner. So dream Big and start Now!

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

541 posts in 720 days


#12 posted 03-05-2014 04:44 AM

i’m confused about “band” and “bead”. The existing crimped end is about 1.5” in length with a raised bead at it’s base. Then about 1” more til the start of the 45 degree.
I bought a Lennox 5 blade crimper just for this job. I am going to take a short 6” length to work to see if it fits under my ryobi chop saw. I currently cut with a dewalt sawzal and metal blade, but would be more straighter and easier if the chop saw works.

View hotncold's profile

hotncold

508 posts in 235 days


#13 posted 03-05-2014 01:56 PM

Sorry Holbs – I may have confused the issue with my last post. When you use a pair of snips to cut off the existing crimps on the wye, there is no need to re-crimp that part (you would be crimping the part you just cut off). As for the “bead” on each stub of the wye, they won’t come into play. Just leave them there. The crimped end of the pipe you are using will now go into the wye and can be fastened (some use screws, some use rivets). I just used foil tape and then put two coats of sealer all the way around. After it hardens it doesn’t move anymore and everything is air tight.

-- Dennie - Tennessee - Every Pro was once an Amateur. Every Expert was once a Beginner. So dream Big and start Now!

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