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Jointer Restoration #3: And I'm stuck

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Blog entry by HokieMojo posted 890 days ago 2723 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Some rust removal progress! (lots of pictures) Part 3 of Jointer Restoration series no next part

It’s been a while since I posted an update. Things around the home have eaten up all my spare time, but I recently took my jointer knives out to be sharpened. They came back looking really good and I was excited to get them installed. This project is so close to being done, I just really need to press onward. Unfortunately, while trying to do so, I noticed a problem, so I’ll explain what I did and maybe someone can help me with my trouble.

I bought a piece of glass at habitat restore for 50 cents. I put that piece on my outfeed bed and inserted the knife springs, knife gib, and cutter knife into the cutterhead. I pressed the blade into the recess and tightened the gib just enough to hold the blade from popping out under the pressure of the springs. then i adjusted the set screws (already in place on the cutterhead) to slowly force the blade back out. I’d rock the cutter back and forth until the blade just BARELY contacted the glass, so that I’d know the blades were level with the outfeed table. once I got the height just right, I tightened down the gib and all seemed fine until….

I went to turn the cutterhead so that I could install the 2nd of 3 knives and it hit the infeed table. I thought that maybe the problem was that I had the infeed table positioned as low as possible to give me room to work, so I raised it and thankfully it cleared (but barely). It seemed like I would just be limited to shallow passes on this machine until I rotated it a little further, only to find that then the blade got stuck on the outfeed bed as well. That bed was set as high as it could go. Maybe lowering it might help, but that doesn’t seem to be the right decision.

Am I missing something?Shouldn’t the jointer be able to function with the outfeed at full height and the infeed at any height? What could be causing this? I don’t have an expensive level to check the beds for perfect parallel, but they seems to be quite flat based on sighting down the beds. I would think there would be a little tolerance built in that I should be able to rotate the cutterhead without a problem. I know that pictures would probably help, but I don’t have a camera at the moment. Anyone have any ideas?
-JC



8 comments so far

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12942 posts in 1194 days


#1 posted 890 days ago

Are you sure the knifes are totally seated? Maybe there’s some gunk down there that built up over time? I’m kind of perplexed with your question, as well. Did the jointer function normally before with the outfeed table at full height? Thank goodness you didn’t fire it up;) I had a SC 6” and now a PM 6”, so I don’t know a whole lot about jointers. I’m sure someone here can help. Try PM’ing Loren or MedicKen if they miss this post. Good luck!

Edit: if it’s gunk, that SeaFoam Deep worked best for me after trying about half a dozen different products.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8473 posts in 2149 days


#2 posted 890 days ago

usually machines/tools are not really meant to be set at extremes (max height,min height) but those settings are there just to accommodate some cases where you need that extra length or so. my logic says that putting the outfeed table at max height requires the blade to be be exposed more than it would have to be if the outfeed table was set at center of it’s setting which can result in 2 things: 1. blades have less support and can result in more chatter and cuts that are not as clean and noisier, and 2. since the blade is extended more it can come in contact with things it shouldn’t which is what you are experiencing.

I am not familiar with that griz model but its worth checking in the user manual, grizz tech support about this as they are pretty helpful mostly.

would really be interested to see a picture showing how much the blade is extended out of the cutterhead and compare it also with the pictures you took with the rust to see how they measure up.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View GregD's profile

GregD

570 posts in 1637 days


#3 posted 890 days ago

I makes sense, doesn’t it, that if you set the knives to the outfeed table when the outfeed table is high, the knives are also going to be high? And if the knives are high they might contact something?

Actually, I never understood why one would ever want to adjust the outfeed table height – it needs to be precisely aligned with the knives, no?

I’ll bet if you just set the outfeed table to about midway between its limits of travel that when you set the knives they will clear the infeed table regardless of its position. Better, set a knife so that it will clear the infeed table over its useful range of positions and then set (and leave) the outfeed table to the height of the knife (or a bit less). Then set the knives precisely to the outfeed table.

-- Greg D. -- the price of freedom is tolerance

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

2094 posts in 2229 days


#4 posted 890 days ago

thanks guys. I think this is good advice and it free (Aside from a little time) so I’ll give it a go. I just assumed setting the table to the max height would be best because it would allow me the greatest range of flexibility in terms of cutting depth in the future, but I can see why going straight to an extreme might not be a great idea too. I guess the manufacturer needs some room for calibration at the outset too. I’ll report back in a few days if I have some more time to try again.
Thanks all!!

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12942 posts in 1194 days


#5 posted 890 days ago

I may be visualizing this all wrong but you are registering your highest knife against the glass block, against the outfeed table, right? I’m kind of like Greg, I never understood the reason for moving an outfeed table outside of original setup with new knives. To tell you the truth, I don’t even know if mine is adjustable, lol. My highest knife is in line with it, so I’ve never had to fuss with it. The infeed table, on the other hand, has given me fits that anyone who knows me has heard plenty about.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

453 posts in 1640 days


#6 posted 890 days ago

My guess is since this is a restoration, he took the outfeed table off without marking exactly where it was so he could put it back.

Let’s look back at your jointer.
If you look carefully, you’ll notice how the wings slide diagonally, not straight up and down. So if you raise the outfeet to max height, you are also moving the bed closer to the cutterhead. If you look at the Grizzly Jointer Manual there is a section on setting the outfeed height. It doesn’t say exactly how high, but looking closely at the diagram, you can see that the height is only slightly higher than the cutterhead w/o the blade. To match what they did, you’ll have to level the outfeed w/ the bladeless cutterhead (the round part, not the opening), then raise the outfeed about ~1/16th”. Then insert the knives w/ the glass like before.

btw, you can also get manuals for older griz jointers online too.

View wchips's profile

wchips

314 posts in 1589 days


#7 posted 890 days ago

I would contact Grizzley customer service.They may be able to help in contacting the right people I belive they have a tecknical dept

-- wchips

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

2094 posts in 2229 days


#8 posted 885 days ago

Thanks for the feedback guys. Sorry I didn’t post earlier, but I did give your advice a shot. I pulled the blade out and reset the outfeed height to the be aboue 3/32nds above the cutterhead. Then I reset the blades and am excited to report that it works!!!! There is quite a bit of vibration, but I think that is because the machine is almost 15 years old and probably sat with the belts in the same position for at least 5 years (causing them to set in their shape).

I’m thinking of either replacement belts from grizzly or getting link belts to fix the problem, but I’m not sure if you can use link belts on this machine.

I ran a couple larger boards through that I felt I could safely do without a push block and all I can say is I wish I had this machine 5 years ago. My projects would have been much better and I’m sure it would have saved me substantial time.

Thanks again for all your help. It’s tough rebuilding a machine when you don’t even know how they work, so your advice was VERY appreciated.

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