Adirondack Chairs #3: Project completed.

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Blog entry by Jacob C. Heffelfinger posted 12-26-2013 09:11 PM 1431 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: New templates, two jigs, and progress Part 3 of Adirondack Chairs series no next part

So I’m FINALLY finished with this project and it feels like it took forever. There’s been a lot going on and I haven’t had nearly as much time as I would have liked in the shop. I’m not sure if that’s just life or the holiday season, but it doesn’t look like the activity is going to let up in the next few months…

In the last entry, I showed offed the jigs I had built to help with the taper cuts and creating the 14” radius cut in the back slats. They both served their purposes, but I will definitely be making some tweaks such as adding a cross brace to hold the back slats down to the curve jig, so I won’t have to screw the back slats to the jig each time. Though I’ve put super clue into the holes in the MDF backer board, I don’t trust that the holes will hold up for many chairs. I also need to tweak my process a bit by either getting a different pattern bit or cutting the slats way down prior to routing, because I had one split on me (see below).

Here are the back slats mounted in the jig after tapering 1/4” off each side.

Top spacer is removed for routing.

Back slats after routing (minus the split one).

Split back slat. Oops.

Once I had made a replacement for the split back slat, the next lesson I learned was about uphill routing. I should have read more about routing curved patterns before attempting to do it for the first time. Check out what happens when you route uphill:

Big chunks flew!

I corrected for that by marking my templates, using a pattern bit with both a top and a bottom barring that could be raised or lowered as needed, and flipping the work when appropriate:

Much better results!!!

After that it was pretty much smooth sailing. I routed the rest of the curved parts, rounded over the appropriate edges with a 14” round over bit, sanded to 220, and finished with 3 coats of teak oil. I also coated the ground contacting surfaces with a strong, water resistant glue. This is what I ended up with:

The WRC for the next chair is in the background.

And I finally get to take a seat.

I don’t know how much blogging I’ll be doing in the future, because it kind of bores me and you can tell that I’ve lost some interest in it by the quality of this entry, but we’ll see. In any case, thanks for stopping by!

-- ~Jake

1 comment so far

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3334 days

#1 posted 12-27-2013 05:16 PM

Nice work, the chair looks very nice!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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