When I moved back to the US from Kuwait, I was determined to 1. Meet my newborn son, 2. Get several specific food items I had been missing, and 3. Build my shop up and get some furniture built.
My son is now 28 months old and has a 7 month old sister, I’ve eaten everywhere I wanted and then some, but I still have yet to make anything other than household necessities such as a simple shoe rack for my wife, a simple but fancy looking desk for myself, and shop stuffs. I’ve started an Adirondack chair from Rockler plans using white oak, but every time I start to make progress I find that I need to make something else to help in the process, so between family, work, and equipping the shop, it’s been a SLOW project.
The first of the many intermediary projects (my second favorite to work on) was the re-furbishing of a 30+ year old Enlon 8” Jointer. I found it on Craigslist and purchased it for $250, which I think was a great deal. It’s pretty much the same as the Grizzly G1018 and several other jointers of the period, so I downloaded the manual from Grizzly and figured out how to deal with any differences as I went along. It had only been used once by the guy I bought it from, but was sitting in storage for 16 years without having been cleaned up after its last use. Needless to say it needed some work.
There are many more pics here: Jointer Project
First I completely disassembled the jointer and cleaned it as best I could. Then, I striped the paint from the cast iron parts and the stand. I started by using a wire brush on a corded drill. This was WAY too time consuming, so I switched to chemicals on the stand. This worked well in the smooth sheet metal, but was not a fun way to go, so I switched to sand blasting. I did all of the sand blasting myself and that was fun! I protected the table and fence surfaces with blue tape and removed pretty much every speck of paint.
The rust on the tables and the fence was pretty thick after 16 years in storage. Luckily there was almost no pitting whatsoever. I started by using WD-40 and a Brillo pad to remove as much as possible. This didn’t get me very far, so I moved to 220 grit sand paper with CorrosionX and VERY light pressure. It might have been better to use a wire brush? I don’t know, but this still took awhile. Eventually I moved up through 400, 600, 1500, and 2000 grit sand paper finishing with a 3000 grit car polishing pad. The surface is slick, especially so after wax was applied) and flat.
After the paint and rust were all gone, I washed and primed each piece. I used 3 coats of Rust-Oleum primer, 3 coats of Rust-Oleum paint, and 3 coats of Rust-Oleum clear coat. It looked great at first, but I’m getting some nicks here and there. If I ever (I hope I don’t) get the urge to repaint this sucker again, I’ll use a spray system instead of cans and an automobile clear coat for hardness!!! I also painted the motor flat black and the mobile stand with a pounded metal spay paint.
Once the tables and fence were clean, all painted parts re-painted, and non-painted parts cleaned and greased or oiled, I put it all back together. I changed the power plug, replaced the belt with a Power Twist V-Link belt, and had the knives sharpened. That’s when the I started on the worst part of the whole project: Aligning the tables and knives. I ended up having to shim the outfeed table to get it perfectly co-planner with the infeed table. It took a long time, but was definitely worth it. Anyone who as ever set jointer knives knows how incredibly painful it can be. Especially when there are no screws to help with height adjustment, only springs! I’ve done it a few times now and I will be purchasing a spiral cutter head the next time the knives need sharpening!!!
I’ve now used the jointer to help dimension many board feet of white oak and it has been great!