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Trestle Table #17: Mortises and Tenons

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Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 10-19-2016 03:38 AM 365 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 16: More JIGs Made for Building Trestle Table Part 17 of Trestle Table series Part 18: Through Mortises in Leg »

I returned to this Trestle Table project today.

Actually, I have been doing some items with this project like making a jig or two. The wedge to hold the leg assemblies required a small jig. I also needed to make some templates from the printed plans I got from Fine Woodworking Magazine or Taunton Press. The feet for this table has a curve as well as the cap part at the top of the leg assembly. I made templates for these curves from some 1/4 inch thick MDF.

I had cut the mortises with my plunge router and the L fence jigs I had made earlier.

This morning I squared the ends of my routed mortises. I used both my Sorby 332 3/8 inch mortise chisel and my Irwin Blue Chip 3/8 inch or 10 mm bench chisels to square off these ends.

I made changes from my previous twin blade tenon joinery method used on my previous table saw. Now that I own a Saw Stop the twin blade method will not work with the braking system in the Saw Stop. I have adopted the spacer method for cutting tenons. I have also made Bob Van Dyke's Multi-use RIP fence JIG where I have a tall fence that attaches to my RIP fence jig. There is also a tenoning jig fixture that holds and pushes the part past the RIP blade to cut the tenon cheeks.

My 3/8 inch spacer block in shown in the two photo given below. The spacer is 3/8 inches thick plus the thickness of my Freud RIP blade’s kerf.

I make my first cheek cut without the spacer block. I have marked the lumber part over the mortises into which the tenon will fit. I then align the blade to that first mark. Start my saw and push the lumber part to cut the first cheek. I turn off my saw ; I will not draw back the lumber part back over the turning blade. I insert the 3/8 inch spacer block between my tall fence and the lumber part in which I am cutting the tenon. I hold the part firmly against the tall fence and cut the second cheek part.

If everything has been measurement precisely and the part positioned to the blade the tenon’s thickness should be ready to fit or maybe some rasp work or shoulder plane work to fit it snuggly in its mortise.

I have some trimming to do to fit these tenons into the mortises. I have another L fence jig to plunge route the through mortises in the leg parts in which the stretcher will fit.

After that I will have some shaping to do on these parts. Then I will glue and clamp the leg assemblies together.

-- --- Happy Howie



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