I have not received a reply from my three questions sent to Saw Stop’s support. I have concluded that they really do not have a setup where I can use multiple blades as in the twin blade joinery article I was using on my other table saw.
Based on this assumptions that Saw Stop can and only will have running solutions that pass their computer checks with their two braking systems, I have moved forward with a spacer block solution for cutting tenons on my Saw Stop table saw.
I replaced my rip fence with my tall melamine fence along with the tenon holding jig. The following photo shows this fence and jig setup without the spacer block.
I have set my rip blade’s height to cut to the shoulder height for my tenon. I have also set the fence so the blade with cut the first shoulder of the tenon to the proper indent for the first shoulder cheek. After that first cut, I insert my 3/8 inch spacer block between my fence and the leg board in which I am cutting a tenon.
I have milled the 3/8” spacer block to be the thickness of the 3/8 inch mortise I cut with my plunge router plus the thickness of my rip blade’s saw kerf. In this case it is almost 1/2 inches thick. I used my bench plane to sneak up on its thickness by cutting tenons in scrap pieces of wood and testing its fit in the test mortises I cut with my router.
I then with the spacer block in place I cut the second shoulder of my tenon.
I then use my bandsaw to cut the waste off from my board near the shoulder height. However, I use the table saw with a block clamped to my rip fence to set the shoulder height. Using my miter gauge I trim the shoulders on the table saw. I use a shoulder plane or rasp to adjust the thickness of the tenons so they fit firmly into the mortise.
-- --- Happy Howie