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83K views 104 replies 17 participants last post by  Smitty_Cabinetshop 
#1 ·
Milling 6/4 Rough Sawn Lumber Parts

After several days of study and analysis, I decided I would make a trestle table for my granddaughter Torrence. It boiled down between this relatively small trestle table or a shaker style writing desk with two drawers under the table top. Each would be approximately the same size of about 60 inches long and 30 inches wide.

Frankly, the decision really came down to my desire to make a beautiful trestle table; one with great curves and shapes.

Actually this trestle table's top will be 54 inches long and 27 inches wide by 29 inches tall. This will be designed similar to a table designed by Gary Rogowski in an article he wrote for Fine Woodworking Magazine, September 2010. I plan to make a few feature change to Mr Rogowshi's article with respect to the shape of the top and the stretcher. Of course, this table will have tower legs on each end with a single stretcher connecting the two a few inches below the table top. I will make the typical through tenons with thin wedges that can be tapped into place in order to hold the stretcher in place. I will make the top so it can have its screws unfastened if the table needs to broken down for transport when moving.

I had a 6/4 rough sawn cherry board in my shop's lumber rack. It had twisted while in my shop. So I began milling the table parts to see if I could use this board and get the dimensioned parts I needed for the stretcher, feet, legs and caps at the top of the legs. In order to maximize the parts thickness, I cut the board to the parts approximate lengths and even to rip some of those parts so I could reduce the effects of the board's twist. It worked for me when making one surface flat on my jointer.

I was able to mill these 6/4 parts today so I do not need to purchase a new 6/4 rough sawn board. I have what I need.

I can next go to my hardwood lumber store to purchase the 4/4 cherry rough sawn lumber. I will make the table top from this 4/4 lumber. That shopping trip will be Monday, at the earliest.

By looking at the milled parts in the photos below, can you tell how I mark the flat jointed surface with the edge squared to it at 90 degrees?

Furniture Cabinetry Wood Drawer Wood stain


I ran these parts through my thickness planer . Next I will rip these parts on my table saw to get the final dimensions of width and their lengths, including any tenon lengths to fit into mortises.
 

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#2 ·
Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Table Wood Wood stain Workbench Hardwood


Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Workbench
 

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#3 ·
Finished Milling my Lumber Today

Today I continued working on my 4/4 lumber parts by running the boards through my 15 inch thickness planer. I selected the boards I will use for the top. By selecting them now I made sure they were milled to the same thickness through my planer. One board needed further planing that the other four so they ended up becoming 13/16th inches thick instead of 7/8 thick. I wanted the top as thick as I could get from my 4/4 rough sawn timber. I am happy with what i got.

A board I had in my lumber rack that was an extra from a previous project was over just over 9 inches wide. When I have timber wider than my 8 inch jointer, it made the process of getting one surface flat a bit more difficult to mill. My shopping trip on Monday, I made sure all rough sawn lumber I purchased would be under 8 inches wide just for this reason. To joint the 9 inch wide board I removed my safety guard. I also determined where on the board where the bow began and cut that board in two. That left me two pieces to joint; one about six feet long and the other four feet. By cutting the board into these lengths and where it began to bow, I figured I could mill them to their maximum thickness. Otherwise if I left the board long it thickness may have shrunk to a 1/2 inch. By dividing this long board I got 3/4 inch thickness from these two pieces. I will use them in this project for the shorter parts that this table will need.

I finished milling all my 4/4 and 6/4 parts by ripping the boards to their maximum widths and squared the ends using my cross-cut sled. I will check these parts later to determine if they need addition milling to four square, if they have moved at all while acclimating to my shop's humidity and after milling them during this first process.

Table Wood Wood stain Workbench Hardwood


Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Workbench
Howie, it may not be an issue for you, but I like to sticker freshly machined boards to endure that any moisture content changes will be from all sides.
 

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#8 ·
Milled and Cut Leg Assembly Parts to Final Dimensions

Today I took the 6/4 lumber parts that I had initially milled to rough dimensions so I could finish the milling process by cutting them to final lengths and widths. I left approximately a 1/16" in their widths from the table saw cuts so I could use my bench planes to remove the blade burns and saw marks. I also smoothly removed the surface's planer marks from all flat surfaces.

For the two batten parts that call for 5/8" thick timber I chose to resaw the 1 inch thick board on my table saw instead of passing it through my planer. Resawing the board left me with a 1/8 thick veneer piece that I can use later on something else. I hand planed the resawn batten parts flat and smooth to its final thickness of 5/8 inches; first with my #6 and then my #4 bench planes.

Hey Art, I haved given below an image of these parts stickered on my assembly table. They will be ready to mark for mortise and tenon joinery.

Wood Shipping box Table Flooring Hardwood


Table Wood Automotive design Wheel Naval architecture


My plan for tomorrow will be first to make long enough clamping cauls to make sure the glue up of my table top will be flat across its surface. The Bowclamp cauls I purchased early on in my woodworking days are too short for use on this table top. I will make the new ones myself from scrap maple I have in my shop. These clamping cauls will look similar to the sketch below that I found on the Internet. Maybe I should search here on Lumberjocks to see what other woodworkers have made for clamping cauls.

I might as well make three or four cauls since I believe making several tables will be in my future.

Wood Parallel Font Art Drawing
 

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#9 ·
Mechanic Duties

If a woodworker is going to have electrical and mechanical equipment in his shop he should also acquire the skills to setup and repair those machines, or keep a mechanic handy. They won't be cheap unless they are sons or brothers. I have both who are very skilled. I have tried to have them teach me what I need to know. If they have done tasks like wire in a panel or box then I attempt to copy their work.

I heard my planer yesterday begin to make a loud racket. This morning I found this metal key on my shop floor as I was cleaning.

The Key I found on My Shop Floor. With item found I knew exactly what machine it came from because I heard the knocking noise yesterday. I am not always that lucky…

Temperature Measuring instrument Video game accessory Portable electronic game Wood


Measuring the length of this key let me know which of the two keys shown in the planer's manual this key went to. The other, of course, was to the pulley at the other end. The one that turns the cutters. That one should measure 30 mm long.

Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Gas Plumbing fixture


Turns out two keys are used in my planer. This one based on it length fits the pulley on the motor.

Wood Gas Mechanical fan Machine Engineering


Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?

Metric sockets and wrenches.

Here we go… Let's get back to woodworking…
 

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#10 ·
Mechanic Duties

If a woodworker is going to have electrical and mechanical equipment in his shop he should also acquire the skills to setup and repair those machines, or keep a mechanic handy. They won't be cheap unless they are sons or brothers. I have both who are very skilled. I have tried to have them teach me what I need to know. If they have done tasks like wire in a panel or box then I attempt to copy their work.

I heard my planer yesterday begin to make a loud racket. This morning I found this metal key on my shop floor as I was cleaning.

The Key I found on My Shop Floor. With item found I knew exactly what machine it came from because I heard the knocking noise yesterday. I am not always that lucky…

Temperature Measuring instrument Video game accessory Portable electronic game Wood


Measuring the length of this key let me know which of the two keys shown in the planer's manual this key went to. The other, of course, was to the pulley at the other end. The one that turns the cutters. That one should measure 30 mm long.

Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Gas Plumbing fixture


Turns out two keys are used in my planer. This one based on it length fits the pulley on the motor.

Wood Gas Mechanical fan Machine Engineering


Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?

Metric sockets and wrenches.

Here we go… Let's get back to woodworking…
Note: Does anyone know how to give instructions in this editor to rotate these photos to the right 90 degrees?
Da, short answer No.

Is your key a snug fit? Does it need to be tapped in place? It should be.
Just a tip, locttite makes some good products to keep seals, bearings, and the like in place. They have many specialized products beyond thread lockers.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/product_advisor/index.shtml
 

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#12 ·
Cambered Cauls

In order to make sure the table top I will be gluing will be flat and so I can keep the thickness I have milled to separate board, I am making cambered cauls for clamping. I want the boards to retain their milled thickness of 13/16 inches so I can cut curved edges to the table top.

I read somewhere during my research that softwood lumber is okay for clamping cauls. I bought three 2 by 12 by 8 feet redwood planks today at Lowes. I selected the planks that where very straight. Also most of these boards do not have any knots in them.



I am generally following a Fine Woodworking article to make these cambered cauls by using my planer.

Prior to jointing a surface flat I decided cut the eight foot lengths of the three planks in half and then rip the four foot planks into thirds. The ripped widths thus is oversized to 3 1/2 inches. This leaves me three 3 1/2 inch wide boards, four feet long.


Then I jointed one surface flat and and an edge square to it. From there I ran the 18 boards through my planer so they all have the same thickness.



Next I ripped each of these boards to 3 inches width with the squared edge up against my table saw's fence.

I then crosscut these boards so I have three sets of six boards to the following lengths: 28 inches, 38 inches and lastly 44 inches. Then with a rule I marked the center point on the edge I am going to camber a slope to their edges.

I clamped a stop on the planer. Laid the center line past the cutters and then planed off 1/16ths inch on the short boards, about an 1/8th inch off the 38 inch long boards and bit more from the 44 inch long boards.



They are good to go as they are, but I also bought six 6 inch long bolts and six 8 inch long bolts. Tomorrow I will drill holes in the ends of these cambered cauls so I can bolt them to sandwiched table top between them.



I drew squiggle lines on the cambered edges so I can easily determine what edge to apply to the table top when I glue it together.

Tomorrow I will also rub on paste wax on all surfaces of these cauls. I will then determine if I should apply any packing tape to the cambered edge in order to avoid having the surface adhere to the table top when I glue and clamp it.
 

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#13 ·
Cambered Cauls

In order to make sure the table top I will be gluing will be flat and so I can keep the thickness I have milled to separate board, I am making cambered cauls for clamping. I want the boards to retain their milled thickness of 13/16 inches so I can cut curved edges to the table top.

I read somewhere during my research that softwood lumber is okay for clamping cauls. I bought three 2 by 12 by 8 feet redwood planks today at Lowes. I selected the planks that where very straight. Also most of these boards do not have any knots in them.



I am generally following a Fine Woodworking article to make these cambered cauls by using my planer.

Prior to jointing a surface flat I decided cut the eight foot lengths of the three planks in half and then rip the four foot planks into thirds. The ripped widths thus is oversized to 3 1/2 inches. This leaves me three 3 1/2 inch wide boards, four feet long.
Wood Engineering Machine Machine tool Workbench


Then I jointed one surface flat and and an edge square to it. From there I ran the 18 boards through my planer so they all have the same thickness.

Wood Flooring Floor Gas Engineering


Next I ripped each of these boards to 3 inches width with the squared edge up against my table saw's fence.

I then crosscut these boards so I have three sets of six boards to the following lengths: 28 inches, 38 inches and lastly 44 inches. Then with a rule I marked the center point on the edge I am going to camber a slope to their edges.

I clamped a stop on the planer. Laid the center line past the cutters and then planed off 1/16ths inch on the short boards, about an 1/8th inch off the 38 inch long boards and bit more from the 44 inch long boards.

Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


They are good to go as they are, but I also bought six 6 inch long bolts and six 8 inch long bolts. Tomorrow I will drill holes in the ends of these cambered cauls so I can bolt them to sandwiched table top between them.

Table Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain


I drew squiggle lines on the cambered edges so I can easily determine what edge to apply to the table top when I glue it together.

Tomorrow I will also rub on paste wax on all surfaces of these cauls. I will then determine if I should apply any packing tape to the cambered edge in order to avoid having the surface adhere to the table top when I glue and clamp it.
Hi:
Yes I would apply packing tape to the cauls.
I notice in the background that you have a Grizzly Jointer. Which model is it and what do you think of it. You can send me a message
 

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#15 ·
Complete Cambered Cauls

After using my planer yesterday to cut the cambered ends, I drilled holes two inches in from the ends of each caul. I selected a 3/8" drill bit in order to easily fit the 5/16 diameter bolts I purchased yesterday. Besides laying the bolt on my bench and testing the thickness of a 5/16" and a 3/8" drill bit along side the bolt, I also drilled a test hole in a scrap board. I selected my 3/8 inch drill bit for my cambered cauls.

Wood Electrical wiring Engineering Machine Electronic device


After marking a line two inches in from each end, I also used my combination square to determine and mark the halfway mark on the cambered edge. I pushed a starter hole with my scratch awl used that to drill a long 1/8" diameter hole through each caul. I used a drill guide to make sure the long drill bit stayed straight through the 3 inch thick caul. This way if my 3/8 drill bit did not punch through the caul I would have a good mark on the opposite side in order to complete the drill hole. As it turned out by mounting the drill bit long enough in my drill press I was able to physically lift the caul to complete the drill hole, punching it through the opposite side.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Engineering Flooring


With all holes drilled, I used a rag to rub paste wax on all surfaces and ends of the cauls.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank Composite material


I have to admit that drilling 32 holes in each end of these cauls became tiresome work, but I stayed on the task. Now I have three set of six cauls measuring 28 inches, 38 inches and 44 inches so I can glue dead flat table tops of 24, 30, and 36 inches wide.

The 8 inch long 5/16 inch bolts will be used to keep the approximately 30 inch wide glue up of the table top flat. I have used Bowclamp's cambered cauls for a dresser top. That was not as wide a project as this one. I suspect I will have at least 30 inch wide table top to glue. I will trim it to final dimension of 27 inches later in this trestle table project.

My next step will be to glue up my table top. Stay tuned for a review on how well tese caul work for that glue up.
 

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#16 ·
Complete Cambered Cauls

After using my planer yesterday to cut the cambered ends, I drilled holes two inches in from the ends of each caul. I selected a 3/8" drill bit in order to easily fit the 5/16 diameter bolts I purchased yesterday. Besides laying the bolt on my bench and testing the thickness of a 5/16" and a 3/8" drill bit along side the bolt, I also drilled a test hole in a scrap board. I selected my 3/8 inch drill bit for my cambered cauls.

Wood Electrical wiring Engineering Machine Electronic device


After marking a line two inches in from each end, I also used my combination square to determine and mark the halfway mark on the cambered edge. I pushed a starter hole with my scratch awl used that to drill a long 1/8" diameter hole through each caul. I used a drill guide to make sure the long drill bit stayed straight through the 3 inch thick caul. This way if my 3/8 drill bit did not punch through the caul I would have a good mark on the opposite side in order to complete the drill hole. As it turned out by mounting the drill bit long enough in my drill press I was able to physically lift the caul to complete the drill hole, punching it through the opposite side.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Engineering Flooring


With all holes drilled, I used a rag to rub paste wax on all surfaces and ends of the cauls.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank Composite material


I have to admit that drilling 32 holes in each end of these cauls became tiresome work, but I stayed on the task. Now I have three set of six cauls measuring 28 inches, 38 inches and 44 inches so I can glue dead flat table tops of 24, 30, and 36 inches wide.

The 8 inch long 5/16 inch bolts will be used to keep the approximately 30 inch wide glue up of the table top flat. I have used Bowclamp's cambered cauls for a dresser top. That was not as wide a project as this one. I suspect I will have at least 30 inch wide table top to glue. I will trim it to final dimension of 27 inches later in this trestle table project.

My next step will be to glue up my table top. Stay tuned for a review on how well tese caul work for that glue up.
Well done, I am sure they will be very useful in glue ups
 

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#18 ·
Mortise Plunge Router JIGs

Since I am following a Gary Rogowski trestle table plan for its dimensions, I will follow or use his method for routing mortises in the trestle legs. He uses a simple jig for plunging mortises with his router. I will make these jigs today. So I could either make the trestle leg assemblies or prepare and glue my table top. I don't know yet what I will build beyond the jigs. I will see how it goes. I may need to purchase a special sized router bit. If so, then I will be making a trip to my Woodcraft store. I don't want to wait for an online purchase to be delivered.

Note: Although I have inserted below links to the Fine Woodworking workshop and articles, you will need an online membership in order to view these links. Gary's article is in Fine Woodworking Magazine #214 September 2010 publication.

Well I reviewed Gary's workshop video on FineWoodworking.com. I purchased the full size plans long ago so I could also make the templates for the curves on the feet, columns, etc. However, my stretcher will not have the curves he made in his video. I and my Ann do not like that look. I have it with straight lines, but maybe chamfer the edges with my spokeshave. We will see.

For my table top I am hoping my glue up will retain most of the thickness of my milled parts. Currently that is 13/16 inches thick. If so I will test in a scrap piece the chance to cut curves in the table top like Daniel Chaffin did in his FWW magazine article in issue #235 September 2013.

I have included the photo below to illustrate the edge curves I hope to place in my table top. You can see how well Daniel Chaffin shaped his table top's edge curve by the light shining from it in this well done photo. This photo was taken by Matt Kenney for Fine Woodworking Magazine.
Wood Creative arts Hardwood Wood stain Art


I guess I have plans that are iffy. I will proceed with a goal and act on them as the materials and my skills (or lack of them) will let me.
 

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#19 ·
Glue-up Trestle Table Top

I performed a full dry glue-up test for this table top. This test included the clamping cauls I made. It became obvious that a 7 or 7 1/2 length bolt would have been ideal, or use of more washer. Instead I broke out my tap and die set to add more 5/16"-18 threads to each bolt.

Saw Wood Tool Handheld power drill Rotary tool


Once the bolts were ready I did a full dry fit.
Wood Wheel Floor Vehicle Flooring


I trimmed the length of the two long boards on my table saw.
Wood Table Floor Shelf Flooring


I jointed the edges of each board so I would get dead-on flat panles; I alternate the surfaces either up against the jointer fence or away from it. I follow an instruction by Fine Woodworking Magazine shown on YouTube.

Brown Wood Beige Flooring Plank


I wish I would have gotten a much flatter panel, but this will do.

Table Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain
 

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#20 ·
Mortise JIGs

This will be my first time to use guide bushings to plunge route mortises. My mortises will be 3/8" wide. The guide bushing I will be using is a 3/4 inch diameter. There will be two mortises made in the trestle feet and one motise into the underside of the cap.

Wood Paper towel Rectangle Gas Shipping box


Wood Rectangle Flooring Gas Wood stain


Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Shade
 

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#21 ·
Tested Plunge Router JIG

I finally tested the plunge router mortising JIGs I made yesterday. I will need much more experience in using the router to make mortises. I used my digital caliper to measure the depths I was getting. For some reason the depth settings was not reliable, as yet. Went I route my mortises in the trestle table's leg assemblies I will check the depths I have cut with the calipers.

I am still not decided whether I will square the routed mortises or round the tenons.

 

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#22 ·
Tested Plunge Router JIG

I finally tested the plunge router mortising JIGs I made yesterday. I will need much more experience in using the router to make mortises. I used my digital caliper to measure the depths I was getting. For some reason the depth settings was not reliable, as yet. Went I route my mortises in the trestle table's leg assemblies I will check the depths I have cut with the calipers.

I am still not decided whether I will square the routed mortises or round the tenons.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Table
Those are clean looking mortices Howie. I don't understand the depth problem though.

Which router and jig were you using?

I'm guessing the previous part 9 is the jig, so which router was giving the depth problem?
 

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#26 ·
Next Steps: Cut Tenons Using Twin Blade Joinery Method

I began work in my shop this morning by squaring up the corners or ends of these router bit made mortises. As you can see I have an Irwin Marples 3/8" or 10 mm hand chisel as well as a Robert Sorby mortising chisel in the same size 3/8" or 10 mm.

Hand tool Wood Pruning shears Tool Wire stripper


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


For this blog entry I am writing what I plan to do next instead of writing briefly what I did in my shop. Maybe this way I will be more thorough and clear of what my steps will be.

I subscribe to Woodcraft Magazine. I love their articles.

Paul Anthony wrote a Woodcraft article on Twin Blade Joinery in the Feb/Mar 2016 magazine. In the article he instructs how he cuts his tenons on his table saw. He uses two rip table saw blades that leaves him flat tenon shoulders. He knows exactly what shims to place on his arbor to get the tenons widths that he needs for his mortise and tenon joinery. I decided to use this same method after analyzing many methods used by experienced woodworkers.

Since I recently purchased a Saw Stop table saw, I also needed to make a new tenon cutting jig. I wanted a tenon JIG that would ride and track on top of my Saw Stop's T-Glide fence. I liked Bob Van ********************'s multiple use table saw fence JIG. His instructions were the magazine cover article for Fine Woodworking Magazine , issue #231. I am already enjoy using this rip fence JIG system.

To cut tenons using twin rip blades on my table saw I went as far as following Paul's instructions to order a 1/4 inch aluminum plate. I even cut the shims out at my bandsaw like his article instructed. That was two much work. Messy. I was sweeping pieces up for days, or maybe even weeks afterwards. Plus my disks did not turn out as pretty as Paul's, but they are functional. They will do the job.

It was after these disks were formed that I discovered in my local Woodcraft store that I could have bought a set of extra DADO shims that would have worked for cutting tenons. If I had done that I could have given my Diablo DADO set to my son when I gave him my Porter Cable contractor table saw. Maybe he will still end up with a free DADO set, but he better get using that saw. Right?

As can be seen in the photo below I use two Freud RIP table saw blades with shims I cut from the aluminum plate plus the shims I own in a Freud Diablo DADO set. I have labeled every shim with a unique letter from our alphabet. I also wrote the thickness I measured with my digital calipers. Those measure are close, or in the ballpark since every attempt measuring their thickness can vary a bit when getting precise to the 1,000ths or 10,000ths.

Wood Gas Hardwood Fashion accessory Engineering


With a scrap block of construction Douglas Fir, I punched test mortises for the different size of hollow mortising chisels I own for use with my Powermatic bench top mortiser. I recorded in my shop journal on page 40 the combination of shims I used inside the twin Freud rip blades that gave me a good tenon fit in this test mortise block.

Handwriting Font Paper Pattern Parallel


Today, with the 3/8" mortises I cut in this test board, I will check if my combination of shims will be a good fit to these plunge router bit made mortises. Either way I will record the combination of shims that give me the best friction fit. I suspect each mortise I cut will be unique, but the best shim combinations I record will give me a good starting point. I would rather have the tenon a bit thick instead of too shinny. I can always use a shoulder planer or a rasp file to thin a tenon in order to get my preferred fitting.

That is my plan for today or tomorrow. I will not only perform a test in this scrap Douglas Fir, but I will also test mortises in a cherry scrap piece of hardwood.

After all of these test I will begin cutting the mortises and tenons for my trestle table leg assemblies. I am hoping after all these test that I will have a reliable procedure to follow on my trestle table build.
 

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#27 ·
Next Steps: Cut Tenons Using Twin Blade Joinery Method

I began work in my shop this morning by squaring up the corners or ends of these router bit made mortises. As you can see I have an Irwin Marples 3/8" or 10 mm hand chisel as well as a Robert Sorby mortising chisel in the same size 3/8" or 10 mm.

Hand tool Wood Pruning shears Tool Wire stripper


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


For this blog entry I am writing what I plan to do next instead of writing briefly what I did in my shop. Maybe this way I will be more thorough and clear of what my steps will be.

I subscribe to Woodcraft Magazine. I love their articles.

Paul Anthony wrote a Woodcraft article on Twin Blade Joinery in the Feb/Mar 2016 magazine. In the article he instructs how he cuts his tenons on his table saw. He uses two rip table saw blades that leaves him flat tenon shoulders. He knows exactly what shims to place on his arbor to get the tenons widths that he needs for his mortise and tenon joinery. I decided to use this same method after analyzing many methods used by experienced woodworkers.

Since I recently purchased a Saw Stop table saw, I also needed to make a new tenon cutting jig. I wanted a tenon JIG that would ride and track on top of my Saw Stop's T-Glide fence. I liked Bob Van ********************'s multi-use tablesaw Rip Fence JIG. His instructions were the magazine cover article for Fine Woodworking Magazine , issue #231. I am already enjoy using this rip fence JIG system.

To cut tenons using twin rip blades on my table saw I went as far as following Paul's instructions to order a 1/4 inch aluminum plate. I even cut the shims out at my bandsaw like his article instructed. That was two much work. Messy. I was sweeping pieces up for days, or maybe even weeks afterwards. Plus my disks did not turn out as pretty as Paul's, but they are functional. They will do the job.

It was after these disks were formed that I discovered in my local Woodcraft store that I could have bought a set of extra DADO shims that would have worked for cutting tenons. If I had done that I could have given my Diablo DADO set to my son when I gave him my Porter Cable contractor table saw. Maybe he will still end up with a free DADO set, but he better get using that saw. Right?

As can be seen in the photo below I use two Freud RIP table saw blades with shims I cut from the aluminum plate plus the shims I own in a Freud Diablo DADO set. I have labeled every shim with a unique letter from our alphabet. I also wrote the thickness I measured with my digital calipers. Those measure are close, or in the ballpark since every attempt measuring their thickness can vary a bit when getting precise to the 1,000ths or 10,000ths.

Wood Gas Hardwood Fashion accessory Engineering


With a scrap block of construction Douglas Fir, I punched test mortises for the different size of hollow mortising chisels I own for use with my Powermatic bench top mortiser. I recorded in my shop journal on page 40 the combination of shims I used inside the twin Freud rip blades that gave me a good tenon fit in this test mortise block.

Handwriting Font Paper Pattern Parallel


Today, with the 3/8" mortises I cut in this test board, I will check if my combination of shims will be a good fit to these plunge router bit made mortises. Either way I will record the combination of shims that give me the best friction fit. I suspect each mortise I cut will be unique, but the best shim combinations I record will give me a good starting point. I would rather have the tenon a bit thick instead of too shinny. I can always use a shoulder planer or a rasp file to thin a tenon in order to get my preferred fitting.

That is my plan for today or tomorrow. I will not only perform a test in this scrap Douglas Fir, but I will also test mortises in a cherry scrap piece of hardwood.

After all of these test I will begin cutting the mortises and tenons for my trestle table leg assemblies. I am hoping after all these test that I will have a reliable procedure to follow on my trestle table build.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank
 

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#28 ·
Next Steps: Cut Tenons Using Twin Blade Joinery Method

I began work in my shop this morning by squaring up the corners or ends of these router bit made mortises. As you can see I have an Irwin Marples 3/8" or 10 mm hand chisel as well as a Robert Sorby mortising chisel in the same size 3/8" or 10 mm.

Hand tool Wood Pruning shears Tool Wire stripper


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


For this blog entry I am writing what I plan to do next instead of writing briefly what I did in my shop. Maybe this way I will be more thorough and clear of what my steps will be.

I subscribe to Woodcraft Magazine. I love their articles.

Paul Anthony wrote a Woodcraft article on Twin Blade Joinery in the Feb/Mar 2016 magazine. In the article he instructs how he cuts his tenons on his table saw. He uses two rip table saw blades that leaves him flat tenon shoulders. He knows exactly what shims to place on his arbor to get the tenons widths that he needs for his mortise and tenon joinery. I decided to use this same method after analyzing many methods used by experienced woodworkers.

Since I recently purchased a Saw Stop table saw, I also needed to make a new tenon cutting jig. I wanted a tenon JIG that would ride and track on top of my Saw Stop's T-Glide fence. I liked Bob Van ********************'s multi-use tablesaw Rip Fence JIG. His instructions were the magazine cover article for Fine Woodworking Magazine , issue #231. I am already enjoy using this rip fence JIG system.

To cut tenons using twin rip blades on my table saw I went as far as following Paul's instructions to order a 1/4 inch aluminum plate. I even cut the shims out at my bandsaw like his article instructed. That was two much work. Messy. I was sweeping pieces up for days, or maybe even weeks afterwards. Plus my disks did not turn out as pretty as Paul's, but they are functional. They will do the job.

It was after these disks were formed that I discovered in my local Woodcraft store that I could have bought a set of extra DADO shims that would have worked for cutting tenons. If I had done that I could have given my Diablo DADO set to my son when I gave him my Porter Cable contractor table saw. Maybe he will still end up with a free DADO set, but he better get using that saw. Right?

As can be seen in the photo below I use two Freud RIP table saw blades with shims I cut from the aluminum plate plus the shims I own in a Freud Diablo DADO set. I have labeled every shim with a unique letter from our alphabet. I also wrote the thickness I measured with my digital calipers. Those measure are close, or in the ballpark since every attempt measuring their thickness can vary a bit when getting precise to the 1,000ths or 10,000ths.

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With a scrap block of construction Douglas Fir, I punched test mortises for the different size of hollow mortising chisels I own for use with my Powermatic bench top mortiser. I recorded in my shop journal on page 40 the combination of shims I used inside the twin Freud rip blades that gave me a good tenon fit in this test mortise block.

Handwriting Font Paper Pattern Parallel


Today, with the 3/8" mortises I cut in this test board, I will check if my combination of shims will be a good fit to these plunge router bit made mortises. Either way I will record the combination of shims that give me the best friction fit. I suspect each mortise I cut will be unique, but the best shim combinations I record will give me a good starting point. I would rather have the tenon a bit thick instead of too shinny. I can always use a shoulder planer or a rasp file to thin a tenon in order to get my preferred fitting.

That is my plan for today or tomorrow. I will not only perform a test in this scrap Douglas Fir, but I will also test mortises in a cherry scrap piece of hardwood.

After all of these test I will begin cutting the mortises and tenons for my trestle table leg assemblies. I am hoping after all these test that I will have a reliable procedure to follow on my trestle table build.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank
Well, I performed these twin blade configurations with my Porter Cable table saw; not with a Saw Stop. It may be impossible to do with this saw's safety brake functions. The magazine article was using 10 inch blades with spacers. I have found that after mounting the twin blades with spacers while the arbor mechanism is raised to its highest point that the brake signal system gives the "green" light okay signal. However, as I approach the lowest point of lowering the blades so I can mount the cover plate, something shifts forward causing the outer blade to touch the brake system. When the blade touches the blade would not be able to spin freely.

I will have to call Saw Stop's technical support to determine if this twin blade technique is even possible with this table saw system.

Maybe with using 8 inch DADO blades and spacers it may be possible. I will also check on that alternative.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Cutting Tenons with Spacer Blocks

I have not received a reply from my three questions sent to Saw Stop's support. I have concluded that they really do not have a setup where I can use multiple blades as in the twin blade joinery article I was using on my other table saw.

Based on this assumptions that Saw Stop can and only will have running solutions that pass their computer checks with their two braking systems, I have moved forward with a spacer block solution for cutting tenons on my Saw Stop table saw.

I replaced my rip fence with my tall melamine fence along with the tenon holding jig. The following photo shows this fence and jig setup without the spacer block.

Hood Wood Wood stain Hardwood Vehicle


I have set my rip blade's height to cut to the shoulder height for my tenon. I have also set the fence so the blade with cut the first shoulder of the tenon to the proper indent for the first shoulder cheek. After that first cut, I insert my 3/8 inch spacer block between my fence and the leg board in which I am cutting a tenon.

Wood Wood stain Floor Hardwood Plywood


I have milled the 3/8" spacer block to be the thickness of the 3/8 inch mortise I cut with my plunge router plus the thickness of my rip blade's saw kerf. In this case it is almost 1/2 inches thick. I used my bench plane to sneak up on its thickness by cutting tenons in scrap pieces of wood and testing its fit in the test mortises I cut with my router.

Wood Building Line House Hardwood


I then with the spacer block in place I cut the second shoulder of my tenon.

I then use my bandsaw to cut the waste off from my board near the shoulder height. However, I use the table saw with a block clamped to my rip fence to set the shoulder height. Using my miter gauge I trim the shoulders on the table saw. I use a shoulder plane or rasp to adjust the thickness of the tenons so they fit firmly into the mortise.
 

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#33 ·
Flatten Table Top

It has been about a week since I glued my cherry hardwood table top together. As you might remember if you have followed my blog, I also make clamping cauls that I used during the top glue up. Even though I used these cambered cauls I still had some ridges at the jointed edges. I intended to use only my #6 bench plane and my #4 smoother to flatten both sides of my table top. I began that process and quickly wished that I owned a low angle jack plane. I was tempted. What I did do was to sharpen the plane's blade. I have a granite slab that I bought early in my woodworking experience. I use many grits of sandpaper and a Veritas Mark II Honing Guide. I have experimented with DMT Duo sharpening stone and DMT diamond Whetstones. In addition, I bought a Grizzly wet grinder and have used Tormek sharpening jigs or tools. For this task I used only my sandpaper methodology that graduated to 2,000 grit.

I have not perfected any of these methods. I know. Practice with one or all method will lead to better results. However, I have watched many videos of what others are using. I am tempted to make an investment into Rob Cosman's Sharpening Kit that is sold at Woodcraft. I have closely watched and analyzed Shapton glass stones. The flatting stone is what is most costly. I notice now that Rob Cosman uses a Trend workshop stone to flatten his Shapton's. I have not only watched his videos, but recently I have also seen him demonstrate his sharpening technique live at my local Woodcraft's new store opening event. This kit contains the following:

1) Trend Classic Professional 8" Double-Sided Diamond Workshop Stone (#852975),
2) a Shapton Glass Stone 16,000 Grit 5mm (#834946),
3) a Shapton Stone Holder (#839778),
3) a bottle of HoneRite Gold, 250ml (#152586), and
4) Rob's Angle Trainer (#150879).

- See more at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/161197/rob-cosman-sharpening-kit.aspx#sthash.YP2OvZ5U.dpuf

I had already taken Rob's advice by using HoneRite on my DMT stones. His kit costs nearly $500 so that will delay my purchase. Maybe I will take more time to practice my existing methods to see if I can perfect those methods first.

Wood Table Flooring Floor Wood stain


While planing my table's surfaces I had some troubles of causing some scratches. I suspect they may be coming from my plane's base edges or somewhere on its surface instead of my blade. I have a good magnifying lens, but I didn't use it to inspect the plane. I simply used my old, aging eyes and did not discover any problem.

What I determined what I would do was this: I would sand those scratches out by using my 21 inch Porter Cable belt sander. I know how to move it over a table's surface so I do not "dig" the sandpaper in the surface and make tracks. I loaded a new 120 grit belt in the sander, put my respirator mask and hearing protection on and began the work. When I completed this task, I ended my work for the day by blowing out all the fine dust from my shop. My leaf blower does a good job with that.

They next day, I sharpened two card scrappers. I have had a hard time learning a method to sharpen this tool so I can get good wispy shavings. A while back I bought a Veritas variable burnishing tool and holder. Today I got good results with my card scrapper, finally.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


These photograph demonstrate the results I achieved on this small cherry table top. I am pleased well enough with the results.

Table Wood Rectangle Plank Lumber


Next I will turn my attention to cutting my mortises and tenons for the trestle table's leg assemblies.

As you may know by following my blog entries, I have made the plunge router jigs and have practiced the routing methods using the guide bushings. Plus I have made spacers to cut my tenons on my table saw.

The double saw blade method that I was using on my old table saw by following a method I had adopted from a Woodworker Journal article, I had to abandon. My new Saw Stop table saw will not allow a double 10 inch blade to be used with their safety brake system. I never got a reply from the email message I sent to their customer or technical support. I wasn't surprised by that. My questions were blunt but fair and straight forward, I think. The expected answers I wanted is most likely further than their marketing guys would want to tread. So be it. I bought the saw for its safety measures, I might as well adhere to their methods although a new brake could be designed and sold, I'm sure, that could accommodate a twin blade joinery method.
 

Attachments

#34 ·
Flatten Table Top

It has been about a week since I glued my cherry hardwood table top together. As you might remember if you have followed my blog, I also make clamping cauls that I used during the top glue up. Even though I used these cambered cauls I still had some ridges at the jointed edges. I intended to use only my #6 bench plane and my #4 smoother to flatten both sides of my table top. I began that process and quickly wished that I owned a low angle jack plane. I was tempted. What I did do was to sharpen the plane's blade. I have a granite slab that I bought early in my woodworking experience. I use many grits of sandpaper and a Veritas Mark II Honing Guide. I have experimented with DMT Duo sharpening stone and DMT diamond Whetstones. In addition, I bought a Grizzly wet grinder and have used Tormek sharpening jigs or tools. For this task I used only my sandpaper methodology that graduated to 2,000 grit.

I have not perfected any of these methods. I know. Practice with one or all method will lead to better results. However, I have watched many videos of what others are using. I am tempted to make an investment into Rob Cosman's Sharpening Kit that is sold at Woodcraft. I have closely watched and analyzed Shapton glass stones. The flatting stone is what is most costly. I notice now that Rob Cosman uses a Trend workshop stone to flatten his Shapton's. I have not only watched his videos, but recently I have also seen him demonstrate his sharpening technique live at my local Woodcraft's new store opening event. This kit contains the following:

1) Trend Classic Professional 8" Double-Sided Diamond Workshop Stone (#852975),
2) a Shapton Glass Stone 16,000 Grit 5mm (#834946),
3) a Shapton Stone Holder (#839778),
3) a bottle of HoneRite Gold, 250ml (#152586), and
4) Rob's Angle Trainer (#150879).

- See more at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/161197/rob-cosman-sharpening-kit.aspx#sthash.YP2OvZ5U.dpuf

I had already taken Rob's advice by using HoneRite on my DMT stones. His kit costs nearly $500 so that will delay my purchase. Maybe I will take more time to practice my existing methods to see if I can perfect those methods first.

Wood Table Flooring Floor Wood stain


While planing my table's surfaces I had some troubles of causing some scratches. I suspect they may be coming from my plane's base edges or somewhere on its surface instead of my blade. I have a good magnifying lens, but I didn't use it to inspect the plane. I simply used my old, aging eyes and did not discover any problem.

What I determined what I would do was this: I would sand those scratches out by using my 21 inch Porter Cable belt sander. I know how to move it over a table's surface so I do not "dig" the sandpaper in the surface and make tracks. I loaded a new 120 grit belt in the sander, put my respirator mask and hearing protection on and began the work. When I completed this task, I ended my work for the day by blowing out all the fine dust from my shop. My leaf blower does a good job with that.

They next day, I sharpened two card scrappers. I have had a hard time learning a method to sharpen this tool so I can get good wispy shavings. A while back I bought a Veritas variable burnishing tool and holder. Today I got good results with my card scrapper, finally.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


These photograph demonstrate the results I achieved on this small cherry table top. I am pleased well enough with the results.

Table Wood Rectangle Plank Lumber


Next I will turn my attention to cutting my mortises and tenons for the trestle table's leg assemblies.

As you may know by following my blog entries, I have made the plunge router jigs and have practiced the routing methods using the guide bushings. Plus I have made spacers to cut my tenons on my table saw.

The double saw blade method that I was using on my old table saw by following a method I had adopted from a Woodworker Journal article, I had to abandon. My new Saw Stop table saw will not allow a double 10 inch blade to be used with their safety brake system. I never got a reply from the email message I sent to their customer or technical support. I wasn't surprised by that. My questions were blunt but fair and straight forward, I think. The expected answers I wanted is most likely further than their marketing guys would want to tread. So be it. I bought the saw for its safety measures, I might as well adhere to their methods although a new brake could be designed and sold, I'm sure, that could accommodate a twin blade joinery method.
This morning I did revisit my #6 Wood River bench plane. I inspected it under my magnifying glass. I did notice some nicks or dents in the front and side edges of my plane. I took my mill file and worked those nicks out. I also inspected my blake and chip breaker under magnification. I noticed that the front tips were slightly out of line; their edges were out of line very slightly. I adjusted it.

Now I am ready to test m plane with a piece of hardwood scrap.

Wood Hand tool Tool Eyewear Flooring


I am now thinking I need a plane till to mount on my tool wall. I need a better way to storage and take care of these planes so I do not dent or nick their edges.
 

Attachments

#37 ·
More JIGs Made for Building Trestle Table

This weekend I made a couple more jigs so I can build this Trestle Table. I followed instructions from Gary Rogowski, the author of this Trestle Table plan I am following.

One of these jigs is another mortising jig that I will use my plunge router with a guide bushing. This mortising jig will be used to cut the through mortise in the leg assembling in which the stretcher will fit. The jig is a simple L fence of 1 1/2 inch thick block that is milled square with a 1/4 inch thick piece of MDF glued to it. The image below shows the JIG. Tomorrow I will cut the 1 1/8" wide and 2 3/8" long hole on my router table. The 3/4" guide bushing will be placed within it in order to cut the through mortise in my two trestle table leg assemblies.

I drilled 3/8" diameter starter holes in which I will route a whole within the penciled boundary.
Building Wood House Brickwork Brick


I have written information on this jig so I will know what project and the use of this jig later on.
Handwriting Wood Rectangle Gas Composite material


The other jig is an 8 angled platform I will clamp to my floor drill press so I can drill an angled mortise into the end of my stretchers. In these mortises I will knock my wedges to hold the stretcher tightly to the leg assemblies.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Composite material Plywood


My platform drill jig is glued and screwed together.
Wood Table Wood stain Creative arts Hardwood


There is one more jig that I will make tomorrow. It will be used to cut the wedges that will hold the stretcher to the leg assemblies. This jig will make it easy to cut the 8 degree angle on the bandsaw.
 

Attachments

#38 ·
Mortises and Tenons

I returned to this Trestle Table project today.

Actually, I have been doing some items with this project like making a jig or two. The wedge to hold the leg assemblies required a small jig. I also needed to make some templates from the printed plans I got from Fine Woodworking Magazine or Taunton Press. The feet for this table has a curve as well as the cap part at the top of the leg assembly. I made templates for these curves from some 1/4 inch thick MDF.

Wood Office ruler Ruler Wood stain Hardwood


I had cut the mortises with my plunge router and the L fence jigs I had made earlier.

This morning I squared the ends of my routed mortises. I used both my Sorby 332 3/8 inch mortise chisel and my Irwin Blue Chip 3/8 inch or 10 mm bench chisels to square off these ends.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tool Lumber


I made changes from my previous twin blade tenon joinery method used on my previous table saw. Now that I own a Saw Stop the twin blade method will not work with the braking system in the Saw Stop. I have adopted the spacer method for cutting tenons. I have also made Bob Van ********************'s Multi-use RIP fence JIG where I have a tall fence that attaches to my RIP fence jig. There is also a tenoning jig fixture that holds and pushes the part past the RIP blade to cut the tenon cheeks.

My 3/8 inch spacer block in shown in the two photo given below. The spacer is 3/8 inches thick plus the thickness of my Freud RIP blade's kerf.
Wood Automotive tire Wheel Tire Engineering


I make my first cheek cut without the spacer block. I have marked the lumber part over the mortises into which the tenon will fit. I then align the blade to that first mark. Start my saw and push the lumber part to cut the first cheek. I turn off my saw ; I will not draw back the lumber part back over the turning blade. I insert the 3/8 inch spacer block between my tall fence and the lumber part in which I am cutting the tenon. I hold the part firmly against the tall fence and cut the second cheek part.

If everything has been measurement precisely and the part positioned to the blade the tenon's thickness should be ready to fit or maybe some rasp work or shoulder plane work to fit it snuggly in its mortise.

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I have some trimming to do to fit these tenons into the mortises. I have another L fence jig to plunge route the through mortises in the leg parts in which the stretcher will fit.

After that I will have some shaping to do on these parts. Then I will glue and clamp the leg assemblies together.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Plank
 

Attachments

#39 ·
Through Mortises in Leg

Today I trimmed the tenon shoulders on my table saw. I am glad I own an Incra 3000 HD miter gauge. I thought I had completed all of the shoulder trims, but while plunge routing the through mortises I discovered I had missed one of these shoulders.
Wood Rectangle Brick Gas Font


I had taken the Incra miter gauge off my Saw Stop. No problem, though. Since I have extended the fence to cover the length of the legs, all of my settings to trim these shoulders were still there. All I had to do is remount the Incra miter gauge back on the table saw and reset the height of the blade to trim the last remaining shoulder.

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And a view from the other side of the miter gauge.
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This image shows all three L-fence jigs used to plunge route the mortises.
Table Ruler Wood Office ruler Rectangle


Now I know why Gary Rogowski had such a complex arrangement to clamp his L fence jig to plunge route his through mortises in his trestle legs. I decided to place two screws through my L fence jig and fasten it to my workbench table top. From this setup I clamped the legs and the MDF top of the L fence jig to my workbench. Now the jig was secure; it would not move while routing these through mortises.

Wood Electronic instrument Hardwood Table Audio equipment
 

Attachments

#40 ·
Multi-use RIP Fence JIG

Although I referenced Boy Van ********************'s Fine Woodworking Magazine article about his multi-use RIP fence jig in a prior blog post, I thought I should include more photos showing the melamine fence that I bolt to the RIP fence jig in order to cut my tenons on my Saw Stop table saw. I made two versions of this melamine fence; one is the height specified in the magazine's article. The other fence is two inches taller than the magazine's article.
Wood Automotive tire Wheel Tire Engineering


I also implemented Bob's tenoning jig that slides along the melamine fence. I smeared the fence and the jig with paste wax so it moves smoothly over the fence.
Wood Automotive design Fruit Engineering Gas


A close up view of the tenoning jig that slides along the top of the melamine fence.
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Plywood


I used glue and screws to fasten this lip to the tenoning jig. I believe Bob Van ******************** used simply a tongue joint with glue.
Wood Wood stain Tool Rectangle Hardwood
 

Attachments

#41 ·
More Work on Leg Assemblies

I spent this evening working to have the tenons fit into their respective mortises; in the foot and the cap parts.

I am so glad I took that Woodcraft sharpening class. Having wicked sharp blades and hand chisels mae all the difference now.

Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain Desk


I trimmed the ends of the tenons at my bandsaw. The double tenons fit into the foot; whereas the CAP mortise is a single wide. To refine the tenons i fixed the leg part in my workbench's vise and used my very sharp hand chisels.

Wood Building Composite material Hardwood Building material


I have a bit more gaps that needs to be closed. I will work on those gaps more tomorrow.

Wood Building Interior design Shelving Table
 

Attachments

#42 ·
Mortise Work for fitting Tenons

I was not able to work long today in my shop. However, I did do some chisel work with the double mortises in the feet of this trestle table. I was able to close the gap except for about a 1/16 inch. I suspect that I did not get the depth I though I had set for the router plunge mortising work I did. Tomorrow I will trim the length of my tenons. I will trim a 1/16 of an inch and see how that fits before taking anymore from the tenons.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


Table Wood Floor Workbench Hardwood
 

Attachments

#43 ·
Mortise Work for fitting Tenons

I was not able to work long today in my shop. However, I did do some chisel work with the double mortises in the feet of this trestle table. I was able to close the gap except for about a 1/16 inch. I suspect that I did not get the depth I though I had set for the router plunge mortising work I did. Tomorrow I will trim the length of my tenons. I will trim a 1/16 of an inch and see how that fits before taking anymore from the tenons.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


Table Wood Floor Workbench Hardwood
Before you cut off the 1/16 just ease the leading edges of your tenons. Chisel, file sandpaper what ever. not only will this probably seat your joint better it gives excess glue a place to go.
I had one particularly tight Tenon push glue through the face of the mortise piece.
 

Attachments

#45 ·
Fixed My Fit by Deepening My Mortises

I really like that my work is reviewed by other woodworkers through the blog entries I make on my projects. Today was a good example of how someone helped me.

My leg tenons were not fitting deep enough into the foot and cap mortises. I commented that I was going to trim the length of my tenons in order to have them sit better. Before I entered my shop I read a comment that was posted today in my blog. Jack cautioned me about cutting my tenons shorter. I appreciate that comment. It let me reassess my situation before making a change that would be irreversible.

I had a conversation with my wife about the blog comment I received. With that conversation it became clear that I should really measure the lengths of my tenons with my digital calipers, write those measurements in my workshop log, then measure the depths of the corresponding mortises. Gee, I should have done that when I started my attempts to dry fit these mortise and tenons. What I discovered was that my assumption was correct. I did not reach the mortise depths I intended. I was about a 1/10 of inch too shallow. While I was discussing this possible outcome with my Annie, I stated what should have occurred to me before. Instead of trimming the length of the tenons, I should cut the mortises deeper in order to reach the depth they should have been all along.

I have a nice Robert Sorby 3/8" mortising chisel. It was time to use it.

Table Wood Creative arts Workbench Hardwood


Per Jack's suggestion, I placed the leg in my bench vise, took a sharp hand chisel and reworked this part's beveled edges on the tenons.

Brown Wood Fawn Brick Hardwood


I remeasured the depths of the mortises and recorded that in my wood shop's journal. The depths changed universally from about 1.20 inches to about 1.40 inches in depth. I then inspected the result with another dry fit of the leg assemblies.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Flooring


Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Material property


Thanks for your help, Jack. I appreciate it. I learned a good lesson today. I will remember the lesson and apply it straight way with my next mortise and tenon project. I will get better at it and hopefully become a better woodworker.
 

Attachments

#46 ·
Fixed My Fit by Deepening My Mortises

I really like that my work is reviewed by other woodworkers through the blog entries I make on my projects. Today was a good example of how someone helped me.

My leg tenons were not fitting deep enough into the foot and cap mortises. I commented that I was going to trim the length of my tenons in order to have them sit better. Before I entered my shop I read a comment that was posted today in my blog. Jack cautioned me about cutting my tenons shorter. I appreciate that comment. It let me reassess my situation before making a change that would be irreversible.

I had a conversation with my wife about the blog comment I received. With that conversation it became clear that I should really measure the lengths of my tenons with my digital calipers, write those measurements in my workshop log, then measure the depths of the corresponding mortises. Gee, I should have done that when I started my attempts to dry fit these mortise and tenons. What I discovered was that my assumption was correct. I did not reach the mortise depths I intended. I was about a 1/10 of inch too shallow. While I was discussing this possible outcome with my Annie, I stated what should have occurred to me before. Instead of trimming the length of the tenons, I should cut the mortises deeper in order to reach the depth they should have been all along.

I have a nice Robert Sorby 3/8" mortising chisel. It was time to use it.

Table Wood Creative arts Workbench Hardwood


Per Jack's suggestion, I placed the leg in my bench vise, took a sharp hand chisel and reworked this part's beveled edges on the tenons.

Brown Wood Fawn Brick Hardwood


I remeasured the depths of the mortises and recorded that in my wood shop's journal. The depths changed universally from about 1.20 inches to about 1.40 inches in depth. I then inspected the result with another dry fit of the leg assemblies.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Flooring


Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Material property


Thanks for your help, Jack. I appreciate it. I learned a good lesson today. I will remember the lesson and apply it straight way with my next mortise and tenon project. I will get better at it and hopefully become a better woodworker.
Well there you go eh!
Amazing what goes on out of view and presents a precise result.

A man has got to be "Happy" with that simple artisan fix.

Keep up the good work guys
 

Attachments

#47 ·
Next Step: Shape my Leg Parts, Then Glue-up

With the fit of my leg's mortises and tenons, it is time to shape the leg parts. Today I will use my shape templates for the Cap and Feet to draw a pencil line. Then I will cut those shapes on my bandsaw. For the legs itself, I will cut its taper on my table saw. I just am not comfortable in getting straight cuts on my bandsaw without blade drift. First, I will check if my leg taper jig will work for cutting the taper on these trestle table legs. If not, I will make a taper jig specifically for these legs with some 1/2" MDF sheets I have in my shop.

Wood Building Window Flooring Floor


Wood Engineering Hardwood Machine Lumber


My curve templates for the Cap and Feet are made from 1/4" MDF. The holes are drilled in them so I can hang them on my template north wall.
Wood Guitar Hardwood Tool Machine


My template north wall is shown in the far background in the image below. It is fast filling up. Once it reaches near over population, then I will have to re-think its organization, layout. I will have to think in 3D mode. There is empty space for that.
Wood Engineering Building Toolroom Machine
 

Attachments

#48 ·
Cut Curves and Planed the Mill Marks

Today I cut the curved leg parts at my bandsaw.

Wood Gas Scale Hardwood Machine tool


Wood Wooden block Floor Flooring Hardwood


With my Wood River low angle block plane I removed the saw marks. The burn marks were done with my 1/4" bandsaw blade. I replaced it after cutting my first leg part; a foot. I replaced that blade with a 1/2" Wood Slicer bandsaw blade for my 17" Grizzly G0513ANV bandsaw.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Plank


Saw Wood Aircraft Miter saw Tool


Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Plank


I was pleased to learn that I could use my leg taper jig for tapering the legs for this trestle table. I placed blue painter's tape down on the surface of my table saw along the edge of the taper jig. This was so I could determine the position of the jig to cut my leg's taper. It worked well for me.

Wood Floor Workbench Flooring Hardwood


I used the off cut to position the second cut on the leg without me being required to re-position my table saw's RIP fence.
Wood Table Workbench Floor Creative arts


Tomorrow I will plane each of these parts plus use my spokeshave to shape bevels on the leg assembly parts.
 

Attachments

#49 ·
Leg Assemblies

Today was an enjoyable day in my shop using my bench planes and spokeshaves. For the flat surfaces I used my Wood River #4 smoothing plane to flatten and prepare them for assembly and glue up.
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I used my newly made adjustable bench dogs built from a Woodsmith plan to pinch down the parts so I could plane their surfaces.
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With my leg parts pinched between my Veritas panel clamp and the newly made Woodsmith adjustable bench dogs I smooth planed all the flat surfaces. The adjustable bench dogs worked okay. They had a tendency to be lifted up a bit. What they do is enable me to quickly adjust the length of the Veritas adjustable vise without having to crank it a great distance.
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With my Wood Slicer 1/2" blade in my bandsaw I am confident that I can make this last cut on this trestle table's feet successfully.
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I also used my spokeshave to round-over the sharp edges of the curved surfaces.
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I believe doing this will give me a great look on this project as compared to a router bit round-over machine look. To start the spokeshaved round-overs I etched approximately a 1/8" inch pencil line boundary to shave to.
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After completing the round-overs this project was ready for gluing and clamping the leg assemblies.
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I kept the cutoffs from the footer to use to shim the clamping of the cap and the foot to the leg.
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My next step will be to cut the through tenons on the stretcher that will hold the leg assemblies together so the table top can be fastened to the legs. Thin wedges will hold the legs to the stretcher.
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#50 ·
Cut Through Tenons on Stretcher

I have been very pleased with the leg assemblies I glued together yesterday plus this test cut of the through tenons I will be cutting soon on the trestle table's stretcher.

The through tenons are 3/4 inches thick and just over 3 inches long. To cut these tenons I use a 3/4 inch tenon spacer on my table saw's multi-use RIP fence jig. The spacer is 3/4 thick plus the kerf's width of my Freud RIP blade.
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The test cut tenon fitted right off from the cuts made on my table saw.
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In order to use my 3/4" tenon spacer I had to glue an additional 3/4" plywood pad piece to my tenon push jig. I made two tenon push jigs when I made the RIP fence jig. At the time I thought it would just be a good thing to have two tenon push jigs made. Now I know why I needed a second. An infrequent use of a 3/4 inch thick tenon would require a thicker pad to hold the space plus the timber I was cutting to make a tenon at my table saw.
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I make my first cut at my pencil mark and then I placed the spacer between the test piece and my tall RIP fence. Straight from my saw this test tenon fit well into the through mortise. I do not expect that to happen every time but it will be close enough to easily fit with my shoulder plane or a wood rasp.

I learned this spacer technique from master woodworker Tom McLaughlin. He has been a frequent guest and designer on PBS' Rough Cut with Tommy Mac. I took an online course from Tom to build a craftsman style rocking chair. I have yet to finish that project; maybe this winter after my Christmas gifts are completed.

I first cut a test 3/4 inch through tenon to make sure my 3/4" tenon spacer was going to be correct or close to fit the through mortises on my trestle legs. They were an exact fit right from the table saw cut.

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This image just shows the opposite side of the tenon push jig with the stretcher in position ready to have its tenons cut.
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I cut my tenons in my trestle table stretcher.
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They fitted just fine into the through mortises. This was straight from cuts on my table saw.
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I used my hand chisels to clean the shoulders after cutting the majority of the outer pads off at the bandsaw and then trimming to the cheek line at my table saw with my Incra miter gauge.

Then I pencil marked the top and bottom line or point of the tenon that will define how it will fit into the through tenon. I trimmed those off at my bandsaw. So now I can test the overall fit of this tenon in my through mortise. I will do that tomorrow and finalize the through tenons by also making 8 degree mortises that the wedges will fit through.
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