After using my planer yesterday to cut the cambered ends, I drilled holes two inches in from the ends of each caul. I selected a 3/8” drill bit in order to easily fit the 5/16 diameter bolts I purchased yesterday. Besides laying the bolt on my bench and testing the thickness of a 5/16” and a 3/8” drill bit along side the bolt, I also drilled a test hole in a scrap board. I selected my 3/8 inch drill bit for my cambered cauls.
After marking a line two inches in from each end, I also used my combination square to determine and mark the halfway mark on the cambered edge. I pushed a starter hole with my scratch awl used that to drill a long 1/8” diameter hole through each caul. I used a drill guide to make sure the long drill bit stayed straight through the 3 inch thick caul. This way if my 3/8 drill bit did not punch through the caul I would have a good mark on the opposite side in order to complete the drill hole. As it turned out by mounting the drill bit long enough in my drill press I was able to physically lift the caul to complete the drill hole, punching it through the opposite side.
With all holes drilled, I used a rag to rub paste wax on all surfaces and ends of the cauls.
I have to admit that drilling 32 holes in each end of these cauls became tiresome work, but I stayed on the task. Now I have three set of six cauls measuring 28 inches, 38 inches and 44 inches so I can glue dead flat table tops of 24, 30, and 36 inches wide.
The 8 inch long 5/16 inch bolts will be used to keep the approximately 30 inch wide glue up of the table top flat. I have used Bowclamp’s cambered cauls for a dresser top. That was not as wide a project as this one. I suspect I will have at least 30 inch wide table top to glue. I will trim it to final dimension of 27 inches later in this trestle table project.
My next step will be to glue up my table top. Stay tuned for a review on how well tese caul work for that glue up.
-- --- Happy Howie