I discovered that my previously made drawer was not wide enough to fit on the Salice undermount drawer slides. This meant I needed to make a new drawer box. Where I went wrong was to read directions for the drawer slides that was more about fitting the slides within the case instead of giving directions from a woodworker perspective: specifically what width the drawer must be.
I had plenty of poplar hardwood to mill up another board. I used my hand saw to cut enough to make the front and back drawer parts. I already had lumber milled in my lumber rack that would become the two drawer sides.
I took the new cutoff lumber over my jointer to get a flat surface and then get an edge square to the flat surface. My planer was already set to the thickness of the drawer parts. I passed the board through the planer. Then at my table saw I squared both ends, cross-cut the board to final lengths. Then I removed the cross-cut sled and used my saw rip fence to cut the boards to final width of 5 1/2 inches.
With my marker gauge I maked the tail boards on both ends and all four sides. Pins boards only need to be marked on both end and the large flat surfaces; not the edges.
From my journal notes I setup my Leigh D4R jig for pass through dovetails. I cut the tail boards first. I had a scrap board handy so I cut and tested a pin bard. It was a bit tight but good enough so I went ahead and cut both pin boards.
From here I setup my router table so I could cut the grooves for the 1/4 inch thick drawer bottom. I stopped routed the pin boards that are my front and back drawer parts.
Then on my table saw I marked and then cut the notches out on the back board for the Salice drawer slides to fit over. This amounted to 1 3/8” wide from the inside edge of the drawer side, flush to the bottom edge of the plywood drawer bottom. I followed the slide instructions for the location of the 1/4 inch hole drilled through the drawer back board at both edges.
This time instead of cutting my finger pull at the bandsaw, I setup my table saw for cutting the finger pulls. I actually used trigonometry to calculate the angle I needed to set the saw blade. That turned out to be 9.5 degrees.
I then glued and clamped the drawer box with its dovetails. Afterwards I pre drilled the screw holes for the drawer plastic hardware. I ended up suing #8 3/4 inch long screws. This box is ready for the walnut false front to be cut to final dimensions and fastened to the poplar.
I also placed a rabbet routing bit in my router table. I set the rabbet to cut 3/16” wide and 1/4” deep. I did this 1/4” depth in two stages: first 1/8” deep and then the final 1/4” depth. From here I used hand chisels to make the corners square instead of rounded.
Next: I will cut the walnut false drawer front to final dimensions and fit to this case.
-- --- Happy Howie