It is now 8:50 pm. I just came in from gluing the wedge piece to the corner block material. From that board I will cut the corner blocks to match exactly the lengths to the skirts from behind the legs. They will be fastened to the skirt, I think, with pocket screws. The skirts will be fastened to the underside of the bottom case panel with pocket screws. The skirts butt up to the legs with beveled ends at 45 degrees. I forget how I fastened the legs to the bottom board. I will look at two or three pocket screws to see if that will work besides the corner block behind them with hangerbolts into the legs and held with the bolt end with washers and a nut.
I also did resaw the 3/4 inch thick walnut and then passed them through my planer. They are now 1/4 inch thick flat boards. I will cut rabbets in them on my new rip fence at my table saw so they will become the back board in ship-lap style of overlapping.
I layout the undermount drawer slides so I would know exactly how they will lay on the bottom panel inside the drawer case. They is just enough room for these 15 inch drawer slides.
I also milled today the poplar lumber that will make the drawer box. The figured walnut false front will be mounted and glued to the front board of this poplar box.
Tomorrow, I will begin the dovetails for the drawer. I will cut a groove that will accept the drawer bottom. I have to leave 9/16” below the drawer bottom in order to fit the underneath drawer slides. Two holes have to be precisely drilled into the back board of the drawer to accept the drawer slide. Also notches are cut into the back of the drawer again so the drawers slides will fit.
I will cut the skirts to the lengths I measured from the sketch layout I i on the bottom panel. Those skirts get 45 degree bevels cuts. I have a table saw bevel sled to perform these cuts.
I made very good progress today.
My wedges cut at 4 degrees on the table saw.
My journal notes concerning the leg design with the 4 degree angles. The second page shows my sketch of the leg locations and then the wedge with the 4 degree cut that will keep the legs flared out along with the corner braces hold the legs in its place.
My table saw setup in order to rip the wedges at 4 degrees.
These legs are free standing on their own. The 4 degree angle does flare the legs outwards at its foot by 1 1/4 inches from its perpendicular original position.
I have the layout for the legs, skirts, corner brackets plus the 4 degree wedges sketched out on the case’s bottom panel.
From that sketch I know within 1/16th of an inch the lengths of the skirts and corner brackets, tip-to-tip since they will have 45 degree bevel cuts on their ends so they will fit the 45 degree angled legs. From the center of this bottom panel, the square layout for the legs is at 13 1/2 inch square. This will keep the feet of the legs within the outer boundaries or edges of the case by at least 1/2 inch.
I have cut the wedges and I glued and clamped them to the corner bracket piece. I will cut a 45 degree bevel on the corner brackets so they fit flush to the skirts. Their lengths will be measured precisely and fitted behind each of the nightstand’s legs that themselves are angled at 45 degrees.
-- --- Happy Howie