With the dovetails cut both the tail and pin boards, I did a dry fit. These boards went together with ease. The photo below shows how well these joints fitted together.
Before I can glue these base parts together I must design the curves for the front and back and then the sides. I did that design on a piece of 1/4 inch thick MDF.
I cut out those templates on my bandsaw. Then I sanded the edges smooth. Once I was satisfied with the templates I positioned them on the wormy maple parts and pencil marked the curves on those parts. Once again I cut the curves on the bandsaw by staying away from the pencil line. I then used double-side carpet tape to hold the template on the wormy maple part. The with a flush pattern router bit in my router and the router in my router table I carefully routed the curves smooth.
After sanding these parts, I clamped and glued the base or plinth together.
I was curious to see how the chest’s case would fit within the base as well as how the lid with the trim pieces would look all together so I staged it for a photograph. That’s it below.
My next steps will be to glue two boards together in order to make the thick lid trim parts. Also I determined I had enough scrap wormy maple boards leftover to make the case’s bottom. Here I am deviating from the original Shaker plan that used one wide board for the case’s bottom. Instead, to take care of wood expansion with the change of seasons, I will design my chest bottom with ship-lapped boards.
-- --- Happy Howie