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65K views 100 replies 20 participants last post by  RichT 
#1 ·
Construction of Case and Milling Hardwood Parts

My woodshop is in my 3-car garage. Being a garage woodshop I believe as many others do that virtually everything should be mobile. All of my major power equipment are on mobile bases: table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw, floor drill press as well as my workbench and assembly tables.

I have a few items related to my auto mechanic toolsets, toolboxes, etc that I used to just keep on the garage floor. Recently I have stacked them on a 2 by 4 plywood sheet that I have on a roll around dolly. I have decided to build the Woodsmith Roll Around Tool Cabinet plan. This will be a nice large cabinet in which I can store some of my nice tools as well as all of those items I have stacked on that 2 by 4 sheet of plywood.
Wood Publication Font Book Advertising


One of the reasons I chose this cabinet plan is that it will be my first time building anything using frame and panel construction methods. I have watched others construct frame and panels. It seems straight forward but no one can really judge that well until you do the work yourself. That is how I see this.
Wood Font Material property Rectangle Parallel


Since I have cut, glued and screwed together the case work, I have been milling the lumber parts for the frame and panel work. I can tell all ready that there is a lot of work to it and there are a lot of parts to make. I haven't even started to cut the panels yet.
Wood Shelving Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


I think this tool cabinet will be a very worthwhile experience to make. One thing I am learning already is that this tool cabinet will not be cheap. The bills are already mounting up.
 

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#63 ·
Sprayed on First Finish Coat

I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser's Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet.

So for all other surfaces on this cabinet I sprayed Deft lacquer. Those surfaces were the panel top, both sides of the cabinet plus the cabinet's face frame parts plus both sides of all four doors.

In about four hours i sprayed on two liberal coats of finish.

Tomorrow , maybe, I will spray two or three more finish coats. Then I will mount the seven drawers with the 18 inch full-extension metal drawers slides. After the drawers I will screw on the rare earth magnetic door catches. That should complete the build of this project.

You can tell from the photo below that I used a Rust Oleum Comfort Grip handle to spray their finish from these cans. It did make it easier for me to operate the spray cans.

Floor Flooring Wood Gas Hardwood


Wood Floor Flooring Shelf Wood stain


Temperatures was in the mid-60s. I opened my garage door plus the back door so I would have clean air pushing through the shop. I used my 3M respirator to protect my lungs and breathing. Things went well, but I did sweat today.

Wood Cabinetry Floor Wood stain Varnish


i am letting these coats dry overnight before I do anything else.

Building Wood Floor Flooring House


The images above were taken after spraying the last of the finish coats for the day. To show the contrast of using finish on this cabinet compare the photos above where the finish coat is still wet and last photo shown below that was taken just prior to spraying finish coats. There is a huge difference, isn't there? I believe it also enhances the color of my dye mix.

Wood Cabinetry Floor Hardwood Flooring
 

Attachments

#64 ·
Sprayed on First Finish Coat

I began spraying finish on my tool cabinet today. I was undecided whether i should spray polyurethane or lacquer over the seal coat of aerosol clear Zinsser's Shellac. i decided to give both a test. i sprayed MinWax polyurethane to the insides of this cabinet including the four shelves, but i also sprayed it on the backside of this cabinet.

So for all other surfaces on this cabinet I sprayed Deft lacquer. Those surfaces were the panel top, both sides of the cabinet plus the cabinet's face frame parts plus both sides of all four doors.

In about four hours i sprayed on two liberal coats of finish.

Tomorrow , maybe, I will spray two or three more finish coats. Then I will mount the seven drawers with the 18 inch full-extension metal drawers slides. After the drawers I will screw on the rare earth magnetic door catches. That should complete the build of this project.

You can tell from the photo below that I used a Rust Oleum Comfort Grip handle to spray their finish from these cans. It did make it easier for me to operate the spray cans.

Floor Flooring Wood Gas Hardwood


Wood Floor Flooring Shelf Wood stain


Temperatures was in the mid-60s. I opened my garage door plus the back door so I would have clean air pushing through the shop. I used my 3M respirator to protect my lungs and breathing. Things went well, but I did sweat today.

Wood Cabinetry Floor Wood stain Varnish


i am letting these coats dry overnight before I do anything else.

Building Wood Floor Flooring House


The images above were taken after spraying the last of the finish coats for the day. To show the contrast of using finish on this cabinet compare the photos above where the finish coat is still wet and last photo shown below that was taken just prior to spraying finish coats. There is a huge difference, isn't there? I believe it also enhances the color of my dye mix.

Wood Cabinetry Floor Hardwood Flooring
Sure looks like the tool chest is coming along nicely, great storage.
 

Attachments

#66 ·
Finish Coats Completed

Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel.

Wood Cabinetry Lectern Floor Flooring


Tomorrow I will begin mounting the seven drawers in this cabinet. I will start with the top drawer by using two plywood panels to set its height and to hold the drawer and slide in place while I screw on the metal slide parts. After the first top drawer is fastened, then I will cut the panel to the next length needed to fastened the next row of drawers below it, and so on…

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Musical instrument


I like the color of this cabinet from the TransTint dye mix I made starting from Charles Neil's original recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany. I added more distilled water and some green only to make the mix a bit more brown. Mixing green with the existing tone of red opened up a whole new world to me concerning the color wheel. I was aware of how two colors could make a third and such, but this real example impacted me more than any other book learning that I had done I have made a small investment in watercolor supplies so I an explore this subject more. Thank you Charles for your selfless help.

Cabinetry Wood Publication Shelving Shelf


The plan I have been following to build this tool cabinet had recommended to paint the maple plus Baltic Birch plywood and poplar hardwood. The photograph taken of the finished project looked great. I had every intention of painting this cabinet in a similar fashion. However, in my studies I began to learn about dyes from Charles Neil's woodworking instruction. I bought his online book Custom Colors. I got my first chance to use dyes when I volunteered to refinish my neighbor's coffee table. That led me to consider using dye on this cabinet. Giving this shop cabinet a look of mahogany transforms it from looking like a shop cabinet to a fine furniture piece that looks like the dresser I use in my master bedroom. If I hadn't put a caster base on this cabinet it could fit into the furniture I have in my bedroom.

Oh, well. Why not experiment with finishes when making shop cabinetry?

This whole project has been a series of new firsts for me: my first frame and panel project, my first time using router jigs for loose tenon joinery, first real time using dyes for coloring my personal projects. I have made drawers before but these seven drawers I believe are the best ones I have made to date. They are very sturdy, strong with a great looking sapele false drawer front that I re-sawed from a great 8/4 rough sawn sapele plank.

Hopefully, I will continue to get better at what I do in woodworking. Isn't that the real goal: continuous improvement?
 

Attachments

#67 ·
Finish Coats Completed

Even though it may be possible for the wood on this cabinet to soak up more coats of lacquer, I sprayed my last coat this afternoon. Anything else I might do will be to buff on coats of Staples dark brown paste wax. That should give this cabinet a nice look and feel.

Wood Cabinetry Lectern Floor Flooring


Tomorrow I will begin mounting the seven drawers in this cabinet. I will start with the top drawer by using two plywood panels to set its height and to hold the drawer and slide in place while I screw on the metal slide parts. After the first top drawer is fastened, then I will cut the panel to the next length needed to fastened the next row of drawers below it, and so on…

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Musical instrument


I like the color of this cabinet from the TransTint dye mix I made starting from Charles Neil's original recipe for Red Cherry Mahogany. I added more distilled water and some green only to make the mix a bit more brown. Mixing green with the existing tone of red opened up a whole new world to me concerning the color wheel. I was aware of how two colors could make a third and such, but this real example impacted me more than any other book learning that I had done I have made a small investment in watercolor supplies so I an explore this subject more. Thank you Charles for your selfless help.

Cabinetry Wood Publication Shelving Shelf


The plan I have been following to build this tool cabinet had recommended to paint the maple plus Baltic Birch plywood and poplar hardwood. The photograph taken of the finished project looked great. I had every intention of painting this cabinet in a similar fashion. However, in my studies I began to learn about dyes from Charles Neil's woodworking instruction. I bought his online book Custom Colors. I got my first chance to use dyes when I volunteered to refinish my neighbor's coffee table. That led me to consider using dye on this cabinet. Giving this shop cabinet a look of mahogany transforms it from looking like a shop cabinet to a fine furniture piece that looks like the dresser I use in my master bedroom. If I hadn't put a caster base on this cabinet it could fit into the furniture I have in my bedroom.

Oh, well. Why not experiment with finishes when making shop cabinetry?

This whole project has been a series of new firsts for me: my first frame and panel project, my first time using router jigs for loose tenon joinery, first real time using dyes for coloring my personal projects. I have made drawers before but these seven drawers I believe are the best ones I have made to date. They are very sturdy, strong with a great looking sapele false drawer front that I re-sawed from a great 8/4 rough sawn sapele plank.

Hopefully, I will continue to get better at what I do in woodworking. Isn't that the real goal: continuous improvement?
Now the "other" is going to want it! So you will have to build another for you!
 

Attachments

#70 ·
Spacers to be Used to Mount Drawer Slides

PANEL SPACERS FOR MOUNTING DRAWER SLIDES

In this blog post I am going to reveal how this engineer thinks, or solves some of these woodworking problems; especially if it involves a bit of mathematics. In this case it is simple addition, subtraction, etc.

Many or maybe all of you may want to stop reading right here. That is fine. I am writing this mainly for myself so I have a record how I solved fitting these seven drawers into this cabinet's bay. Once a problem is solved then the issue seems simple in retrospect. I admit that I had to measure and analyze my situation before I began any work to fit these drawers into this space. It may be obvious of how to proceed for a master woodworker, but this novice guy does not take anything for granted.

For those who want to be spared how I analyzed and calculated my solution, this would be the spot where you should bail out!

To install my drawers into this cabinet I am going to use scrap Âľ " plywood panels as spacers. Actually, I will use two spacers cut to the exact same length. I will start by mounting the topmost pair of drawer slides, or top drawer. I will cut the length of the spacers so that the slides are located at the proper position indicated by the length of these spacers.. I will explain those calculated lengths or locations a bit later in the paragraphs below. I will use the spacers to hold the slides and the drawer at their calculated height location as I drive in the screws; first to the case's side panels and then as I extend the slides I will fasten the metal slides to the drawer with screws. Of course, a video would be the best way to demonstrate this process. Maybe I can record a video clip and link it to this blog post. If I cannot devise a process to record it, I hope my written words will be clear enough to explain the process I used for those that are interested and have read to this point.

Wood Handle Automotive exterior Vehicle door Flooring


After the first drawer slides are installed I will simply cut the two spacer lengths down to their next length for the next pair of slides and drawer to be mounted. I will repeat this process until all of the slides and drawers are installed.

Brown Handle Wood Door Fixture


Since my cabinet has a face frame, the bottom drawer will be positioned just a fraction of an inch above the bottom rail of this face frame. This rail's top is ½ inch above the inside base's top surface. I take that ½ inch length into account when calculating the length of the spacers.

There is also a rail at the top of the drawer bay. I measured the distance between these two rails. That length was 34 â…ť inches: the measured distance between face frame rails.

To calculate the gap between the stacked drawers and the distance between the two face frame rails, I first summed the heights of all seven drawers. That summation is shown below and totals to 31 ÂĽ inches.

7 ¼ + 5 + 5+ 4 + 4 + 3 + 3 = 31 1/4 inches is the summation of drawer heights…

Thus, the total drawer gap is calculated by subtracting the summation of the drawers heights from the distance between the face frame rails:

Total drawer gap is: 34 â…ť minus 31 ÂĽ = 3 â…ś inches.

I am using hidden finger pulls routed on the upper backside of the drawer fronts in order to open these drawers. I did not want to use knobs or cut semi-circle holes as what was shown in the Woodsmith plan.

I had picked out and used a beautiful sapele hardwood plank for my false drawer fronts. So since I designed to open these drawers in this manner with hidden finger pulls, I needed gaps above each drawer into which I could place my fingers so I could grasp the coved routed area in order to pull the drawers open. The height of the gaps between each drawer I determined should all be the same, equal. I figured gap calculation to the nearest 32nd of an inch. I thought that would be close enough.

Seven drawers need seven finger holes or gaps. The gap between drawers was easily calculated by taking the total drawer gap of 3 â…ś inches and dividing that by 7. The result is shown below,:

3 ⅜ divided by 7 equals 0.482143 inches…

Multiple that answer by 32 gives me this number: 15.4. Rounding or truncating 15.4 gives me:

15/32. Inches; this is just shy of a half inch.

I chose to use fractions to the nearest 32nd of an inch instead of a 16th because a 32nd keeps the rounding errors to a minimum when adding up seven gaps for seven drawers.

I did; I went to all of this trouble so I could be as precise as I felt I needed to be in order to mount these metal drawer slides into this cabinet drawer bay

I had two other things to consider.

#1) I wanted the bottom of the drawer slides to be positioned ¼ inches above the bottom of the drawer sides. Say that three times fast…

#2) I need the front edge of the metal drawer slides to be positioned directly behind the ÂĽ inch thick sapele false drawer fronts. Each drawer front was cut at my bandsaw so I would have a finish thickness of ÂĽ inch.

To help me position the front of these metal drawer slides I am looking at the center divider of this cabinet. It is a Âľ inch plywood panel with a ÂĽ inch poplar strip to cover or hide the plies. I will position the front of these slides to that seam line where the poplar strip is glued to the plywood panel. That works for the center panel or left side of the drawers.

However, for the right side of the drawers I have a 1 ½ inch thick spacer made from poplar hardwood. This is what the metal slides will be fastened or screwed to for the right-side of these drawers. To position the front of these metal slides I needed some other device to offset or mark the slides starting indent position. I located some small scrap pieces of maple that I had resawn to ¼ inch thick strips. I will be using this to indent the starting front edge of the drawer slides on this right-side of the drawer bay by indexing it flush to the front edge of the poplar spacers. Doing that will give me the ¼ inch indent to position the front edge of my drawer slide on the right side of the drawers.

Lastly, I wanted to calculate all the space lengths I would need to position all of these drawers to their proper height in this bay. To calculate the spacers lengths I started at the bottom of the bay, the caster base's surface.

I have summarized those calculations below.

(7) Spacer length for bottom drawer #1: ( 7 1/4" tall)
½ inches
(Note: leave the line when ripping the length of this spacer. Actually, I will cut this spacer separately from the spacers used for all the other drawer mountings.)

(6) Spacer length for drawer #2 that will be a 5" tall drawer.
15/32 + 7 8/32 + 16/32 = 7 39/32 = 8 7/32 inches

(5) Spacer length for drawer #3 that will be a 5" tall drawer.
8 7/32 + 5 15/32 = 13 22/32 = 13 11/16 inches

(4) Spacer length for drawer #4 that will be a 4" tall drawer.
13 22/32 + 5 15/32 = 18 37/32 = 19 5/32 inches

(3) Spacer length for drawer #3 that will be a 4" tall drawer.
19 5/32 + 4 15/32 = 23 20/32 = 23 5/8 inches

(2) Spacer length for drawer #2 that will be a 3" tall drawer.
23 20/32 + 4 15/32 = 27 35/32 = 28 3/32 inches

(1) Spacer length for drawer #1 that will be a 3" tall drawer.
28 3/32 + 3 15/32 = 31 18/32 = 31 9/16 inches

I have marked with a pencil all of these lengths on the plywood spacers plus I have cut the spacers to the 31 9/16 inch length. This is my starting position for the topmost drawer I will mount first to the metal slides. After mounting it, I will cut the spacers to the next length marked as (2) above: 28 3/32 inches. I will continue in this manner until I reach the bottom drawer. For it I have already cut two spacers to slightly over 1/ 2 inch lengths.
 

Attachments

#71 ·
Spacers to be Used to Mount Drawer Slides

PANEL SPACERS FOR MOUNTING DRAWER SLIDES

In this blog post I am going to reveal how this engineer thinks, or solves some of these woodworking problems; especially if it involves a bit of mathematics. In this case it is simple addition, subtraction, etc.

Many or maybe all of you may want to stop reading right here. That is fine. I am writing this mainly for myself so I have a record how I solved fitting these seven drawers into this cabinet's bay. Once a problem is solved then the issue seems simple in retrospect. I admit that I had to measure and analyze my situation before I began any work to fit these drawers into this space. It may be obvious of how to proceed for a master woodworker, but this novice guy does not take anything for granted.

For those who want to be spared how I analyzed and calculated my solution, this would be the spot where you should bail out!

To install my drawers into this cabinet I am going to use scrap Âľ " plywood panels as spacers. Actually, I will use two spacers cut to the exact same length. I will start by mounting the topmost pair of drawer slides, or top drawer. I will cut the length of the spacers so that the slides are located at the proper position indicated by the length of these spacers.. I will explain those calculated lengths or locations a bit later in the paragraphs below. I will use the spacers to hold the slides and the drawer at their calculated height location as I drive in the screws; first to the case's side panels and then as I extend the slides I will fasten the metal slides to the drawer with screws. Of course, a video would be the best way to demonstrate this process. Maybe I can record a video clip and link it to this blog post. If I cannot devise a process to record it, I hope my written words will be clear enough to explain the process I used for those that are interested and have read to this point.

Wood Handle Automotive exterior Vehicle door Flooring


After the first drawer slides are installed I will simply cut the two spacer lengths down to their next length for the next pair of slides and drawer to be mounted. I will repeat this process until all of the slides and drawers are installed.

Brown Handle Wood Door Fixture


Since my cabinet has a face frame, the bottom drawer will be positioned just a fraction of an inch above the bottom rail of this face frame. This rail's top is ½ inch above the inside base's top surface. I take that ½ inch length into account when calculating the length of the spacers.

There is also a rail at the top of the drawer bay. I measured the distance between these two rails. That length was 34 â…ť inches: the measured distance between face frame rails.

To calculate the gap between the stacked drawers and the distance between the two face frame rails, I first summed the heights of all seven drawers. That summation is shown below and totals to 31 ÂĽ inches.

7 ¼ + 5 + 5+ 4 + 4 + 3 + 3 = 31 1/4 inches is the summation of drawer heights…

Thus, the total drawer gap is calculated by subtracting the summation of the drawers heights from the distance between the face frame rails:

Total drawer gap is: 34 â…ť minus 31 ÂĽ = 3 â…ś inches.

I am using hidden finger pulls routed on the upper backside of the drawer fronts in order to open these drawers. I did not want to use knobs or cut semi-circle holes as what was shown in the Woodsmith plan.

I had picked out and used a beautiful sapele hardwood plank for my false drawer fronts. So since I designed to open these drawers in this manner with hidden finger pulls, I needed gaps above each drawer into which I could place my fingers so I could grasp the coved routed area in order to pull the drawers open. The height of the gaps between each drawer I determined should all be the same, equal. I figured gap calculation to the nearest 32nd of an inch. I thought that would be close enough.

Seven drawers need seven finger holes or gaps. The gap between drawers was easily calculated by taking the total drawer gap of 3 â…ś inches and dividing that by 7. The result is shown below,:

3 ⅜ divided by 7 equals 0.482143 inches…

Multiple that answer by 32 gives me this number: 15.4. Rounding or truncating 15.4 gives me:

15/32. Inches; this is just shy of a half inch.

I chose to use fractions to the nearest 32nd of an inch instead of a 16th because a 32nd keeps the rounding errors to a minimum when adding up seven gaps for seven drawers.

I did; I went to all of this trouble so I could be as precise as I felt I needed to be in order to mount these metal drawer slides into this cabinet drawer bay

I had two other things to consider.

#1) I wanted the bottom of the drawer slides to be positioned ¼ inches above the bottom of the drawer sides. Say that three times fast…

#2) I need the front edge of the metal drawer slides to be positioned directly behind the ÂĽ inch thick sapele false drawer fronts. Each drawer front was cut at my bandsaw so I would have a finish thickness of ÂĽ inch.

To help me position the front of these metal drawer slides I am looking at the center divider of this cabinet. It is a Âľ inch plywood panel with a ÂĽ inch poplar strip to cover or hide the plies. I will position the front of these slides to that seam line where the poplar strip is glued to the plywood panel. That works for the center panel or left side of the drawers.

However, for the right side of the drawers I have a 1 ½ inch thick spacer made from poplar hardwood. This is what the metal slides will be fastened or screwed to for the right-side of these drawers. To position the front of these metal slides I needed some other device to offset or mark the slides starting indent position. I located some small scrap pieces of maple that I had resawn to ¼ inch thick strips. I will be using this to indent the starting front edge of the drawer slides on this right-side of the drawer bay by indexing it flush to the front edge of the poplar spacers. Doing that will give me the ¼ inch indent to position the front edge of my drawer slide on the right side of the drawers.

Lastly, I wanted to calculate all the space lengths I would need to position all of these drawers to their proper height in this bay. To calculate the spacers lengths I started at the bottom of the bay, the caster base's surface.

I have summarized those calculations below.

(7) Spacer length for bottom drawer #1: ( 7 1/4" tall)
½ inches
(Note: leave the line when ripping the length of this spacer. Actually, I will cut this spacer separately from the spacers used for all the other drawer mountings.)

(6) Spacer length for drawer #2 that will be a 5" tall drawer.
15/32 + 7 8/32 + 16/32 = 7 39/32 = 8 7/32 inches

(5) Spacer length for drawer #3 that will be a 5" tall drawer.
8 7/32 + 5 15/32 = 13 22/32 = 13 11/16 inches

(4) Spacer length for drawer #4 that will be a 4" tall drawer.
13 22/32 + 5 15/32 = 18 37/32 = 19 5/32 inches

(3) Spacer length for drawer #3 that will be a 4" tall drawer.
19 5/32 + 4 15/32 = 23 20/32 = 23 5/8 inches

(2) Spacer length for drawer #2 that will be a 3" tall drawer.
23 20/32 + 4 15/32 = 27 35/32 = 28 3/32 inches

(1) Spacer length for drawer #1 that will be a 3" tall drawer.
28 3/32 + 3 15/32 = 31 18/32 = 31 9/16 inches

I have marked with a pencil all of these lengths on the plywood spacers plus I have cut the spacers to the 31 9/16 inch length. This is my starting position for the topmost drawer I will mount first to the metal slides. After mounting it, I will cut the spacers to the next length marked as (2) above: 28 3/32 inches. I will continue in this manner until I reach the bottom drawer. For it I have already cut two spacers to slightly over 1/ 2 inch lengths.
I didn't check your math but the process sounds perfect.

When I use side mounted drawer guides, I always put the guides on so that the bottom of the drawer will be flush with the bottom of the guide.
Then when I layout my drawer fronts (with spacing) I just add 1/4" to the bottom of the drawer front measurement and that's the size I cut my board.
This always puts my drawer box 1/4" above the bottom of the drawer front. (if that makes sense)

(I usually run a piece of tape down the face of the cabinet and then make the marks for the drawer fronts and spacing on the tape, then measure the marks on the tape to get my board sizes.)

Anyway that's my system that works for me. ;)
 

Attachments

#72 ·
Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?

I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.

Handle Fixture Wood Door Gas


With the center divider I can use a spring clamp to hold the drawer spacer upright. Since I have the door hinged on the opposite side I have to figure out another way to hold that drawer spacer upright. I chose to use a wedged stick to hold it in place.

Brown Wood Wood stain Countertop Hardwood


I trimmed the thin drawer slide spacer so it would be no wider than the width of the slide it would hold on its top surface and still allow the drawers to fit between the slides. I also measured the lip of every drawer false front cover to its drawer side surface. There were some variances among the seven drawers, but not much; maybe as much as 3/64 inches. I have the spacers labeled: L for left and R for right cuz there is a slight difference from one side to the other. details… details… And, it does seem to matter…

So with the spring clamp holding the slide in place, I pre-drilled the three screw holes with the center hole aligned drill bit and then fastened the slide into place with the #8 screws supplied in the kit. I had to handhold the right hand slide in place and perform all of these tasks with the other hand.

Wood Automotive exterior Gas Vehicle door Bumper


Now it was time to position the drawer between these mounted slides so I could begin fastening the slide to the drawer side with screws.

Jeez Louise! Did I measure this gap wrong?

My drawer was not fitting between these slides. It appeared my drawers were 1/8 inches too wide. I tried it again. I got my rule out. Measured the opening. Measured my drawer width. I measured the gap between the center divider and the poplar spacer on the opposite bay side; at the top, middle and bottom. Those measurements were all the same distance. I measured the widths of all seven drawers. They measured all the same.

What did I do wrong?

Did I measure the bay's width incorrectly before I started cutting the drawer parts? Where was my shop journal? Did I record the cut measurements in it? I began thinking: how am I going to fix this screw-up? Make all new drawers? Route and chisel 1/8 inch deep channels, seven times into the right-side poplar spacers? Gee, the drawers I made were sturdy and the best I had done. I would hate to toss them on the junk pile…

Well, I need time to calm down and think this through. I turned off the lights and walked away for day. Time to think.

This morning with a rule in my hand I went back to re-measure everything. I also looked through my journal entries There was the measurement I made cuts to for drawers parts: the drawer front and backs. On page 92, gap distance for widths: 13 11/16 inches minus 1 inch for pair of metal slides gives a cut length of 12 11/16 inches. Actual current measurements of distance between this mounted pair of metal slides: 12 11/16 inches. Remeasured actual width of drawers: 12 11/16 inches. Every drawer had the same measurement 12 11/16 inches.

Tried to fit the drawer again between these slides. Result: TIGHT!

A sigh of relief, some relief…

I will get out my hand plane and some sandpaper. I will do the best I can to hand plane and sand the sides of these drawers; especially where the "pins" fit through the side board "tails" and may not be as flush as they should be.

Now I do not see, nor do I believe or fear I need to make new drawers or route and chisel "channels" to fit the slides into so my drawers will fit between these metal slides.

To be continued…
 

Attachments

#73 ·
Jeez Louise, Did I Measure That Wrong?

I determined I needed a better spacer jig from what I started with in order to mount these drawer slides. So I went back to my big box store and bought two 3/4 by 24 by 48 inch small, easy to handle panels of MDF. I cross-cut both of their lengths to the 31 9/16 inches. This is the length I needed in order to mount my top-most 3 inch tall drawer. Then I ripped their widths. This dimension was calculated so with the panels pushed back against the back frame and panel its front edge would be the exact location where I will position the front edge of my metal drawer slides. This edge gives me the correct flush fit for all of my seven stacked drawers in this cabinet bay.

Handle Fixture Wood Door Gas


With the center divider I can use a spring clamp to hold the drawer spacer upright. Since I have the door hinged on the opposite side I have to figure out another way to hold that drawer spacer upright. I chose to use a wedged stick to hold it in place.

Brown Wood Wood stain Countertop Hardwood


I trimmed the thin drawer slide spacer so it would be no wider than the width of the slide it would hold on its top surface and still allow the drawers to fit between the slides. I also measured the lip of every drawer false front cover to its drawer side surface. There were some variances among the seven drawers, but not much; maybe as much as 3/64 inches. I have the spacers labeled: L for left and R for right cuz there is a slight difference from one side to the other. details… details… And, it does seem to matter…

So with the spring clamp holding the slide in place, I pre-drilled the three screw holes with the center hole aligned drill bit and then fastened the slide into place with the #8 screws supplied in the kit. I had to handhold the right hand slide in place and perform all of these tasks with the other hand.

Wood Automotive exterior Gas Vehicle door Bumper


Now it was time to position the drawer between these mounted slides so I could begin fastening the slide to the drawer side with screws.

Jeez Louise! Did I measure this gap wrong?

My drawer was not fitting between these slides. It appeared my drawers were 1/8 inches too wide. I tried it again. I got my rule out. Measured the opening. Measured my drawer width. I measured the gap between the center divider and the poplar spacer on the opposite bay side; at the top, middle and bottom. Those measurements were all the same distance. I measured the widths of all seven drawers. They measured all the same.

What did I do wrong?

Did I measure the bay's width incorrectly before I started cutting the drawer parts? Where was my shop journal? Did I record the cut measurements in it? I began thinking: how am I going to fix this screw-up? Make all new drawers? Route and chisel 1/8 inch deep channels, seven times into the right-side poplar spacers? Gee, the drawers I made were sturdy and the best I had done. I would hate to toss them on the junk pile…

Well, I need time to calm down and think this through. I turned off the lights and walked away for day. Time to think.

This morning with a rule in my hand I went back to re-measure everything. I also looked through my journal entries There was the measurement I made cuts to for drawers parts: the drawer front and backs. On page 92, gap distance for widths: 13 11/16 inches minus 1 inch for pair of metal slides gives a cut length of 12 11/16 inches. Actual current measurements of distance between this mounted pair of metal slides: 12 11/16 inches. Remeasured actual width of drawers: 12 11/16 inches. Every drawer had the same measurement 12 11/16 inches.

Tried to fit the drawer again between these slides. Result: TIGHT!

A sigh of relief, some relief…

I will get out my hand plane and some sandpaper. I will do the best I can to hand plane and sand the sides of these drawers; especially where the "pins" fit through the side board "tails" and may not be as flush as they should be.

Now I do not see, nor do I believe or fear I need to make new drawers or route and chisel "channels" to fit the slides into so my drawers will fit between these metal slides.

To be continued…
Roll around cabinet #28…......You're thinking way too much about your next post and not paying attention to what you're doing. #28 is my first and last look at this project, maybe I will look at your cabinet when it's done.
 

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#94 ·
Drawers: Planed, Pared and Hung

HAND PLANES AND PARING CHISEL USED TO GET PROUD JOINTS FLUSH TO DRAWER PART SURFACES

For those that have followed my blog entries for this project, my last entry was a few weeks ago. Back then I had witnessed that my drawers seemed to be too wide, but after further measurements and inspection my drawers were just very tight. I needed to pare or make flush the proud dovetail joints on the corners of these drawer boxes.

Plane Smoothing plane Wood Scrub plane Automotive exterior


I have not worked in my shop for three weeks because I have been following my doctor's instruction to stay off my left foot. I have a pressure sore or wound on its heel. My doctor reminded me that the only way these types of wound heal are by staying off of my feet, or foot. I did get into my shop for a few hours last week where I did clean up these dovetail joints for all seven drawers.
Wood Road surface Flooring Floor Composite material


For the backend of the drawers it was easy to clamp the drawers to my benchtop and use my #3 Wood River bench plane to get the proud joints flush to the side and back boards. I tried using my shoulder plane to work the proud joints that are aligned with my sapele false drawer fronts. Finally, it dawned on me to use my long Narex paring chisel to do this work. I should have thought of using my paring chisel much earlier. I had a very sharp edge on this chisel. I kept it that way by simply touching the edge up on my leather strop.
Wood Table Tool Hardwood Wood stain


I purposely designed this cabinet so my drawers would fit tightly between its metal slides. I paid particular attention to keeping the case square and especially when I installed the center panel divider. I had made a mistake on my first large dresser with its panel divider. I had a devil of time mounting those drawers because the front to back dimension was not square, the same. I ended up using wedges or spacers to get those metal slides to fit properly. So I hope I am learning from my past mistakes.

It seems that I have done a lot better this time around with this cabinet. I am proud of the drawers I made for this project and how they now hang in its bay.
Wood Road surface Flooring Asphalt Concrete


I have embedded a few photographs of the work I did to plane and pare the proud joints flush to the side and back drawer part surfaces.

I had mounted the first two top drawers prior to today's work. So entering my shop this morning I had plans to complete hanging the remaining five drawers.
Shelf Stairs Wood Bookcase Shelving


LARGE MDF SPACER USED TO MOUNT METAL SLIDES AND DRAWERS

I had received great advice here on Lumberjocks on how I should proceed using the MDF spacer. I was using two MDF spacers to hang the top drawer. I took the advice from several members to use just one spacer instead of two so I would not encounter differences in their lengths. How I employed using this single MDF spacer is in the manner I have described in detail below:

I would clamp the 3/4 inch thick MDF spacer to the center panel. It was cut to the length or height that I needed to mount the drawer in its bay. My drawer sides, back and front parts (including my false drawer front) are all flush to each other for their bottom and top edges. So my drawers will sit on top of this MDF spacer. For my metal drawer slides I am positioning those 1/4 inch above the bottom edge of the drawers. I am therefore placing this small 1/4 thick hardwood spacer on top of the large MDF spacer. I am placing the metal slide so it is sitting on top of the small 1/4 inch tall spacer. With the metal drawer slide held in place and its front edge aligned flush to my 1/4 inch offset (which is the thickness of my sapele false drawer fronts) I fasten the metal slides with the #8 panhead screws that came in the slide kit. I fasten the screws one at time, from the front to the back by pre-drilling the screw hole with my center-hole drill bit. I use bee's wax on the screws. I use my impact driver to fasten the screw, but finish the fastening with my short phillips handheld screw driver.

Once the first slide is fastened, I transfer the MDF spacer to the other side of the bay, place the small 1/4 thick spacer on top of it and fasten that slide to its panel.
Cabinetry Computer desk Table Wood Drawer


For this tool cabinet, I have followed a Woodsmith plan. The center divider is a 3/4 inch Maple plywood panel. The plan called for two 1 1/2 inch thick poplar hardwood spacers to be glued to the inside surface of the outside panel of this cabinet's case. The two spacers were needed because of the width of the cabinet's face frame stretcher. The stretchers in this face frame were 1 1/4 inch wide. Thus, the 1 1/2 inch thick spacers were needed so the metal slides would be mounted to the two thick spacers. If I was to make this project again, I would add a third 1 1/2 inch thick spacer and glue or fasten it so I could use the middle screw holes in the metal slides. As it is now, I could only use screws holes in the very front and back of the metal slide on this side of the drawer bay. I did use four screw holes into these thick spacers; two screws in the front portion and two in the back of the slide.
Wood Floor Hardwood Rectangle Wood stain


After mounting both metal slides for a drawer, I then used both large MDF spacers to hold the drawer in its height position while I fastened the metal slide to its drawer. I would pull the metal slide out a few inches so the first screw hole was accessible so I could pre-drill the screw hole. If my large MDF spacer was positioned against the center divider, I would fasten that metal slide to the drawer. I would again work from the front to the back by pre-drilling centered screw holes. I would pull the drawer out just enough so I could fasten the first screw. Then I would pull the drawer out further so I could then fasten another screw closer to the center of the slide and drawer. I discovered that I could not get the very back screw hole to be visible to work on while the drawer was mounted to the slide. Thus, I left the drawer hung as it was and I would transfer the large MDF spacer to the other side of the cabinet bay. It would switch positions with the other MDF spacer. This swap was done so I was always using the same MDF spacer to fasten the slide to the drawer (as was done with fastening the metal slide to the cabinet case). I would then fasten the slide to the drawer on this opposite side of the drawer, front to back.

Since I was unable to fasten the back screws to the drawer, after both sides of the drawer were fastened to the slides, I would dismount the drawer and complete fastening the slide to the drawer with screws at the backend of the slide. There were already enough screws in the metal slide fastened to the dismounted drawer so I was confident that the slide was in its proper position and would not move, if I was careful in drilling a hole and fastening the remaining screws. I made it a habit to fasten two screws in the backend of the metal slide to each drawer.

After a drawer has been mounted then I would cut the large MDF spacer to its new shorter length on my SawStop table saw. I use a cross-cut sled that I know is square to the blade. I use William Ng's Five Cuts to a Perfect Cross-cut Sled method to make sure my sled is square.

With the MDF spacer cut to its new shorter length, I would then repeat the process above until all the drawers were mounted.
Cabinetry Wood Shelving Desk Wood stain


For the last drawer, the length of the MDF spacer is measured by marking the location of the face frame that must be cleared. I then cut that MDF spacer to that mark by leaving the pencil line. I used a stop block on my table saw to mark the length of the standard spacer and to cut the second MDF spacer to that length.

WHAT'S NEXT?
I have two remaining tasks to complete this tool cabinet build. I have magnetic door catches to fasten; one for each of the four doors on this cabinet. Plus, I have four door knobs to place; one on each door.

BUTT HINGES, HELP ME!

Note: If I was more experienced in mortising and placing butt hinges, I might know how to adjust the butt hinges I have mounted to this cabinet's face frame and doors. One door out of four hangs okay. The rest do not close or stay in their closed position. I suspect I may have to readjust how these three butt hinges as fastened to the face frame and its door. I am going to search the Internet and my subscription to Fine Woodworking Magazine online site to see if anyone has given instructions on how to adjust butt hinges for a better fitting door. I hope there will be some answers so I do not have to blindly make changes and hope for the best. I am worried that I will strip out the screw holes before I get a good solution. If someone here on Lumberjocks can provide help, I am a willing student.
 

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#95 ·
Project Completed: Lessons Learned

Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned

A few months ago I noticed how many storage and toolboxes I had sitting flat on my garage floor. I decided to make them more mobile in the simplest manner possible. I took one of my dolly carts bought from Harbor Freight Tools, placed a 2 by 4 foot sheet of plywood on it, then began stacking the Rubbermaid storage boxes, etc on top of it. This made the items mobile but the tools and items in them were not easily accessible. This problem got me thinking and planning a better storage solution.

In my search I found a Woodsmith plan in their Shop Notes Library that I liked a lot. They named the plan their Roll Around Tool Cabinet. One of the reasons I selected this plan was because it would challenge my woodworking skill set. Prior to this build I had not built a frame and panel project. I decided to deviate from the written plan in a few of its features or techniques. I was making these changes so I could test and implement other new techniques that I wanted to learn.

The things I chose to change in the plan were these:

I would use full dadoes and rabbet joinery in fastening the case together instead of Woodsmith's preferred method of tongue and groove joints. Lesson learned: I learned this lesson long ago. The tongue and groove method unless cut precisely can be very weak. I simply choose to avoid the chance of breakage by cutting full dadoes and rabbits for my casework.

Instead of using pocket hole joinery for the cabinet's face frame, I was going to learn how to cut mortises with my router and employ loose tenon joinery with this project being my first application. I had constructed a universal mortise jig in prior months to starting this project. This would be my first project using this jig to cut its mortises. Lesson learned: I got a very strong joint in this face frame by using loose tenons. I was very impressed with the joint's strength and the ease, really, of routing the mortises with my mortising jig as well as the ease of making the loose tenon parts with many scrap pieces of lumber in my shop. Why not use my lumber scraps for this purpose? I will be using more loose tenons in other projects for here on out!

For the seven drawers in this plan I decided I would use dovetail joinery instead of Woodsmith's drawer lock method. Also I wanted to see if I could cut these dovetails using my table saw. I had read articles in magazines and seen experienced woodworkers cut dovetails on their table saws. I wondered what was really involved to cut dovetails with my table saw. Lesson learned: I did not achieve a well made dovetail with this table saw method even though I made a great jigs to cut the tails and the pins. I abandoned the process after my first attempts with test pieces. I may test this method again, but not anytime soon.

When I began searching to purchase the plan's H & L door hinges, I decided I would use butt hinges instead for this cabinet's four doors. I had never used butt hinges before so I wanted to learn how to mortise for these hinges as well as learn the techniques for their installation and fitting. Lesson learned: The costs for well made butt hinges were approximately the same cost of the H&L hinges. These were the first butt hinges I have installed. I did tests on scrap pieces of lumber using shopmade mortising jigs for these butt hinges and specifically made for this project. Those tests went well so I installed my 8 butt hinges for this cabinet's four doors. Result: I got only one door that hang well. These were inset doors within the face frame of the cabinet. The other three doors did not close well. I have not been able to find a good magazine or online article explaining how to adjust butt hinges to get better fitting doors. I have not attempted to adjust my hinges as yet. I may not choose to use butt hinges again on any other project. I have used European hinges before and their installation and adjustments went well. I know how easily they can be adjusted for fitting the doors correctly.

When I went to my hardwood store to buy the lumber for this project I already had in mind that I would find a nice plank of hardwood that I would re-saw into ÂĽ inch thick false drawer fronts. I have done false drawer fronts like this before on other projects in order to make the through dovetails look like half-blind dovetails. At MacBeath Hardwood I found this beautiful four foot length 8/4 of rough sawn Sapele. Finding this beautiful figured hardwood seemed like fate. Sold. I bought it for the great look it would give these seven stacked drawers. Lesson learned: I loved every experience in working with this Sapele hardwood plank. I plan to find uses for Sapele hardwood again on other projects..

I had intended to paint this project after I had completed its build. That is exactly what Woodsmith did. Those plans changed after I had recently joined Charles Neil's Master Woodworking online instruction. I had bought a couple of his wood finishing books. One of those was his recipes for using dyes. That spurred me to change my plans. I selected his Red Cherry Mahogany recipe for my tool cabinet that was made from poplar hardwood, Baltic Birch and Maple plywood. After testing this recipe on a small sample of Baltic Birch I decided I wanted more brown in the dye. I added a ½ part of green to the 20 ounce bottle I had made. That gave me the right blend that I wanted. I committed to using dye for this shop made tool cabinet. Why not experiment with these shop projects? Lesson learned: I enjoyed all aspects of using dyes on this projects. I discovered that a dye can make ordinary poplar look like much more expensive hardwoods. With more practice I bet I could get really good at applying dyes to projects. Oh, yeah. Charles Neil sprays his dye. After my experiment with my HVLP spray gun, I will only rag on my dyes. I know my needle was a size too large, but the droplets went everywhere. I won't do that to my garage shop again.

Lastly, I have not mounted metal slides stacked like these seven are stacked, one on top of each other. The Woodsmith guys said they used a plywood or MDF spacer panel in order to locate the height of the slides and drawers. However, they did not write the details of how that was accomplished. When I presented photos of how I did my first two rows in this cabinet, I got a lot of good comments on how I should be using a story stick and / or one spacer instead of two for the placement of the slides and drawers. I learned a lot of good points from these member's comments here on Lumberjocks. I implemented them. I believe I came out with a better understanding of how and why I should only use one baseline spacer so accuracy is maintained in my woodworking builds; so thank you, everyone. Lesson learned: I really like the input I get from members here on Lumberjocks. They help me become a better woodworker. Thank you.

I will learn to use story sticks and will use only one measured spacer or measuring device from here on out. That alone will help me avoid mistakes.

I decided this cabinet did not need another coat of polyurethane finish. What I did do to finish the cabinet is buff on a thin coat of dark brown paste wax; Staples I believe is the brand name. I like the feel of wood over a plastic hardness that I would simply get with thick coats of polyurethane. I am willing to buff wax my projects every now and then.

I am still looking for instructions on how to adjust butt hinges so the cabinet doors will close more easily. When I find a good written article I will begin to make those adjustments. Until then I can live and manage with my 3 out of 4 doors not closing so nicely as it now exists.

Building Wood Art Gas Flooring


Building Wood Rectangle Fixture Line


Cabinetry Wood Computer desk Table Drawer
 

Attachments

#96 ·
Project Completed: Lessons Learned

Completed Roll Around Tool Cabinet: Lessons Learned

A few months ago I noticed how many storage and toolboxes I had sitting flat on my garage floor. I decided to make them more mobile in the simplest manner possible. I took one of my dolly carts bought from Harbor Freight Tools, placed a 2 by 4 foot sheet of plywood on it, then began stacking the Rubbermaid storage boxes, etc on top of it. This made the items mobile but the tools and items in them were not easily accessible. This problem got me thinking and planning a better storage solution.

In my search I found a Woodsmith plan in their Shop Notes Library that I liked a lot. They named the plan their Roll Around Tool Cabinet. One of the reasons I selected this plan was because it would challenge my woodworking skill set. Prior to this build I had not built a frame and panel project. I decided to deviate from the written plan in a few of its features or techniques. I was making these changes so I could test and implement other new techniques that I wanted to learn.

The things I chose to change in the plan were these:

I would use full dadoes and rabbet joinery in fastening the case together instead of Woodsmith's preferred method of tongue and groove joints. Lesson learned: I learned this lesson long ago. The tongue and groove method unless cut precisely can be very weak. I simply choose to avoid the chance of breakage by cutting full dadoes and rabbits for my casework.

Instead of using pocket hole joinery for the cabinet's face frame, I was going to learn how to cut mortises with my router and employ loose tenon joinery with this project being my first application. I had constructed a universal mortise jig in prior months to starting this project. This would be my first project using this jig to cut its mortises. Lesson learned: I got a very strong joint in this face frame by using loose tenons. I was very impressed with the joint's strength and the ease, really, of routing the mortises with my mortising jig as well as the ease of making the loose tenon parts with many scrap pieces of lumber in my shop. Why not use my lumber scraps for this purpose? I will be using more loose tenons in other projects for here on out!

For the seven drawers in this plan I decided I would use dovetail joinery instead of Woodsmith's drawer lock method. Also I wanted to see if I could cut these dovetails using my table saw. I had read articles in magazines and seen experienced woodworkers cut dovetails on their table saws. I wondered what was really involved to cut dovetails with my table saw. Lesson learned: I did not achieve a well made dovetail with this table saw method even though I made a great jigs to cut the tails and the pins. I abandoned the process after my first attempts with test pieces. I may test this method again, but not anytime soon.

When I began searching to purchase the plan's H & L door hinges, I decided I would use butt hinges instead for this cabinet's four doors. I had never used butt hinges before so I wanted to learn how to mortise for these hinges as well as learn the techniques for their installation and fitting. Lesson learned: The costs for well made butt hinges were approximately the same cost of the H&L hinges. These were the first butt hinges I have installed. I did tests on scrap pieces of lumber using shopmade mortising jigs for these butt hinges and specifically made for this project. Those tests went well so I installed my 8 butt hinges for this cabinet's four doors. Result: I got only one door that hang well. These were inset doors within the face frame of the cabinet. The other three doors did not close well. I have not been able to find a good magazine or online article explaining how to adjust butt hinges to get better fitting doors. I have not attempted to adjust my hinges as yet. I may not choose to use butt hinges again on any other project. I have used European hinges before and their installation and adjustments went well. I know how easily they can be adjusted for fitting the doors correctly.

When I went to my hardwood store to buy the lumber for this project I already had in mind that I would find a nice plank of hardwood that I would re-saw into ÂĽ inch thick false drawer fronts. I have done false drawer fronts like this before on other projects in order to make the through dovetails look like half-blind dovetails. At MacBeath Hardwood I found this beautiful four foot length 8/4 of rough sawn Sapele. Finding this beautiful figured hardwood seemed like fate. Sold. I bought it for the great look it would give these seven stacked drawers. Lesson learned: I loved every experience in working with this Sapele hardwood plank. I plan to find uses for Sapele hardwood again on other projects..

I had intended to paint this project after I had completed its build. That is exactly what Woodsmith did. Those plans changed after I had recently joined Charles Neil's Master Woodworking online instruction. I had bought a couple of his wood finishing books. One of those was his recipes for using dyes. That spurred me to change my plans. I selected his Red Cherry Mahogany recipe for my tool cabinet that was made from poplar hardwood, Baltic Birch and Maple plywood. After testing this recipe on a small sample of Baltic Birch I decided I wanted more brown in the dye. I added a ½ part of green to the 20 ounce bottle I had made. That gave me the right blend that I wanted. I committed to using dye for this shop made tool cabinet. Why not experiment with these shop projects? Lesson learned: I enjoyed all aspects of using dyes on this projects. I discovered that a dye can make ordinary poplar look like much more expensive hardwoods. With more practice I bet I could get really good at applying dyes to projects. Oh, yeah. Charles Neil sprays his dye. After my experiment with my HVLP spray gun, I will only rag on my dyes. I know my needle was a size too large, but the droplets went everywhere. I won't do that to my garage shop again.

Lastly, I have not mounted metal slides stacked like these seven are stacked, one on top of each other. The Woodsmith guys said they used a plywood or MDF spacer panel in order to locate the height of the slides and drawers. However, they did not write the details of how that was accomplished. When I presented photos of how I did my first two rows in this cabinet, I got a lot of good comments on how I should be using a story stick and / or one spacer instead of two for the placement of the slides and drawers. I learned a lot of good points from these member's comments here on Lumberjocks. I implemented them. I believe I came out with a better understanding of how and why I should only use one baseline spacer so accuracy is maintained in my woodworking builds; so thank you, everyone. Lesson learned: I really like the input I get from members here on Lumberjocks. They help me become a better woodworker. Thank you.

I will learn to use story sticks and will use only one measured spacer or measuring device from here on out. That alone will help me avoid mistakes.

I decided this cabinet did not need another coat of polyurethane finish. What I did do to finish the cabinet is buff on a thin coat of dark brown paste wax; Staples I believe is the brand name. I like the feel of wood over a plastic hardness that I would simply get with thick coats of polyurethane. I am willing to buff wax my projects every now and then.

I am still looking for instructions on how to adjust butt hinges so the cabinet doors will close more easily. When I find a good written article I will begin to make those adjustments. Until then I can live and manage with my 3 out of 4 doors not closing so nicely as it now exists.

Building Wood Art Gas Flooring


Building Wood Rectangle Fixture Line


Cabinetry Wood Computer desk Table Drawer
That's a thing of beauty Howie. You should be very proud of it.
 

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