LumberJocks

Roll Around Tool Cabinet #19: Router a Recess Area for a Drawer Finger Pull?

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 02-24-2017 02:32 AM 711 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 18: Final Stages on This Tool Cabinet Part 19 of Roll Around Tool Cabinet series Part 20: Detail Work: Drawer Fronts and Breadboard End Top Layout »

Below is an image I took of the seven drawers stacked upon each other. In the image the drawers are just dry fitted. The dovetail drawer material is poplar with sapele hardwood fastened to the drawer fronts with double-side tape for the moment. I have not used any oil or finish on the hardwood as yet so its grain is not showing off as well as it will when oiled. However, it is already beautiful.

I liked this look so much that I decided not to follow the plan I am using by drilling semi-circles as finger holes to pull the drawer open. Instead I hope to use my router with a cove bit to route a recess on the top backside of the drawer front. That recess along with my calculation of 5/8” gap between each drawer should be enough to stick a finger in to pull open each drawer in this tool cabinet I am building.

My search on the Internet to find a solution that I could follow in order to route a recess area on the upper backside of my drawer fronts found this link below. The AskWoodMan uses a shop-made router guide to make his recesses.

AskWoodMan Uses Router Guide to Create Recess Area for Finger Pulls.

After I posted the above link I found a better and easier process for routing a finger recess area under the bottom edge of my drawers. I will experiment with with some scrap pieces of wood first.

My most likely method to use on my drawers...

-- --- Happy Howie



4 comments so far

View HappyHowie's profile

HappyHowie

459 posts in 1762 days


#1 posted 02-24-2017 02:57 AM

Well, of course there are many more options for routing finger pulls or holes for drawers.

Click here for a link to other images....

-- --- Happy Howie

View HappyHowie's profile

HappyHowie

459 posts in 1762 days


#2 posted 02-25-2017 11:26 PM

I routed finger recess areas on the top centered backside of each drawer. I did this instead of drilling semi-circles per the Woodsmith plan I was following. I routed the recesses because I did not want to distract from the beautiful sapele hardwood I was using for the false drawer fronts.

-- --- Happy Howie

View HappyHowie's profile

HappyHowie

459 posts in 1762 days


#3 posted 02-27-2017 02:49 PM

I worked a little today on this tool cabinet. I had used double-sided tape holding the false front sapele to the poplar hardwood fronts so first I had to separate these two parts so I could remove the tape. Some times I had to use a razor blade to remove the tape.

Before separating the sapele part from the poplar piece I used a square to mark with a pencil line where the two parts joined or fitted together. This is so I could precisely put the two parts back together again when I glued and clamped them back together.

I also shot 3 brad nails into the glued parts when I knew they were precisely placed together. This was done because the parts get slippery when glue is applied and the parts will definitely move when clamped. I rehearsed the clamping process.

I will keep the clamps on overnight so the parts have the best chance of adhering together and lasting that way for decades…

It is unusual to glue the false front to the drawer before the drawer parts are glued together, but I rehearsed putting the false front on first and then assembled the drawer together. I believe I can get the sapele in its precise location better this way, or using this method.

-- --- Happy Howie

View HappyHowie's profile

HappyHowie

459 posts in 1762 days


#4 posted 03-01-2017 02:39 AM

Today I brushed and wiped on my TransTint dye mix. I mixed this color based on Charles Neil’s formula that he called Red Cherry Mahogany. I applied this color just to the drawer front poplar wood. I made sure that the sapele hardwood false drawer fronts were not touched. I did this coloring so that the dovetail side boards for these seven drawers will standout with a contrasting color.

Tomorrow after this dye has had its chance to dry completely I will scuff sand the poplar parts so I can then spray a Shellac clear sealer. I suspect that the sealer will enliven the color dye some. After that dries I will glue and clamp the drawers together. This is all in preparation for mounting the drawers with the full extension metal drawer slides.

I also bought at my local box store a pack of 20 shelf pins that will fit the 1/4 inch holes that I have drilled. In addition i bought a pack of 100 1/4” washers. I need 16 washers with the #14 – 3/4 inch long panhead screws that will fasten the locking swivel 5 inch casters to the base plate.

-- --- Happy Howie

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com