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Roll Around Tool Cabinet #5: My Plan for Tomorrow: Wednesday January 25

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Blog entry by HappyHowie posted 01-25-2017 04:27 AM 1535 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: Loose Tenons instead of Pocket Screws for Face Frame Part 5 of Roll Around Tool Cabinet series Part 6: Face Frame Attached and Plugs for Countersink Screw Holes »

What is the plan tomorrow?

Well, here is my list which I will report on after the day’s work is done.

1) Sand the face frame then glue, pin and clamp it to the carcase.
2) Make hardwood plugs to fill the countersunk screw holes, glue them in place.
3) With a scrap piece of poplar test the saw blade height of 3/8 inches for cutting the center grooves on the poplar frame pieces. And, then cut those center grooves. First, centered on all parts and then with the rip fence adjusted, widen the center groove so a 1/4 inch Baltic Birch plywood fits snuggly.
4) With the grooves ripped, measure the dimensions for the panels and cut those panels on the table saw.
5) On the table saw cut the stub tenons for the frame parts to fit together with the panels.
6) I will take the 1/2 inch thick poplar boards that have been ripped already to their widths and crosscut them to the final lengths to make my seven drawers.
7) I will layout these drawers for through dovetails.

I will investigate further than I have prior to now on how to cut dovetails on my table saw. There is a Fine Woodworking Magazine article written by Gregory Paolini that explains how to cut dovetails on the table saw. I have been interested in learning and cutting dovetails with that method. Why not do it here with this project? Afterwards I will evaluate if I enjoy this method or not. If I like it and plan to use it more in the near future I will purchase the special saw blade that has its teeth filed to a specified angle so the kerf is flat at the top even though the blade has been tilted at the table saw.

The point of this method is to use power equipment but to make the pins thin so they appear to be hand cut dovetails. I ‘ll see how well I do.

-- --- Happy Howie



3 comments so far

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5621 posts in 3522 days


#1 posted 02-21-2017 06:00 PM

How did the table saw dovetails go?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View HappyHowie's profile

HappyHowie

459 posts in 1755 days


#2 posted 02-21-2017 07:29 PM

Mark, I was so displeased with my lack of skill to make dovetails on the table saw that I abandoned the process during my test phase of cutting dovetails. All during these tests I was using scrap wood milled to the same dimensions as my drawer parts.

Frankly, I ran out of patience.

I need to return to testing this process, but I will do that after I complete this tool cabinet project. I did not want to ruin the drawers on this project. I am putting my heart and soul into this project by wanting it to turn out as well as I can do any woodworking at this stage of my experience, or lack of it.

One thing that frustrated me was after returning my Freud RIP blade back to its vertical position on my Saw Stop table saw, I thought I had its height dialed in and locked so the saw kerf was just hitting the knife mark for the pin’s depth. The cuts I made to match the dovetail cut lines looked good so the dovetail board would fit tightly and all the way down to the its depth. However, when I began cutting the waste it appeared that my saw blade had dropped a fraction. That perplexed me. I was sure I had the height setting locked in on my Saw Stop. I began doubting my memory, my self-worth. My reason for being…

It was while I was brooding over this issue that I decided I would not pursue cutting the dovetails for my seven drawers for this project on my table saw. Instead, I was going to speed up my drawer making by returning to my tried and true method cutting dovetails with my Leigh D4R JIG. That is what I did. I am pleased with the dovetails I cut with the Leigh JIG. I have left this “dovetails cut on the table saw” issue for another time.

So I have hung the L-fences I made for cutting dovetails on the table saw for the time being on my JIG north wall. At some future point in time I will return to testing and working out the “bugs” of this process. I guess I carved out too many “first time” processes for this project. I eliminated one of those and happy that I did. My troubled mind got rid of one of my worries…

-- --- Happy Howie

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5621 posts in 3522 days


#3 posted 02-22-2017 05:16 AM

I use the Leigh jig as well, it just seems to make more sense to me then using the table saw. I could not quite get how the saw would not leave tell tale traces at the base of the dovetails no matter what grind the teeth had, unless the teeth were custom ground to math the angles of the dovetails?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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