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Crosscut Sled

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Blog entry by Handi75 posted 01-11-2017 11:47 AM 686 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Anyone that might be able to help me out.

I have a 10” Craftsman Professional Contractors Tablesaw. There are NO Miter slots beside the blade. There are some beside the router table leaf to the left of the saw.

My cuts suck, it needs adjusting constantly (Is my starter table saw) and I’d love to build a crosscut sled for it so I can have better and true 45* Angels and such with it. But being that there is no miter slots on the table itself. How would I go about building a Sled.

Can I build one that will cradle over the fence to use? I assume i can but this would restrict my length of wood I can cut with it. is there a way around this?

-- Jimmy "Handi" Warner, http://www.facebook.com/HandisWorkshop, http://www.facebook.com/HandisCreations, Twitter: @Handisworkshop, @HandisCreations



10 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116560 posts in 3411 days


#1 posted 01-11-2017 12:27 PM

Hi Jimmy
There’s a couple routes you can take# 1 you could take some 3/4” ply the size of your saws table top and clamp it to you saw’s tabletop nice and square to the tops edge and slowly ease the blade through the ply,bring the blade all the way up after lowering the blade down then remove the ply and rout a 3/8”deep groove parallel with your cut the saw blade made say 6” away in the ply the width of your miter gauge if you have one or about 3/4” wide clamp back on saw with the blade up for alignment you now have a miter slot for a sled. If you want you could make 2 grooves each one 6” away from each side of cut you put in the ply so you have a miter slot on both sides of the blade. Option #2 sell your saw and by another saw with miter slots.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View dbray45's profile

dbray45

3295 posts in 2610 days


#2 posted 01-11-2017 12:41 PM

If this is one of those small “table saws” be careful with it. I keep one at my daughters house for when I work on her house. The thing is dangerous on so many levels. I use sheet goods with it and hate using it for two reasons – the fence is crap and the thing will tip over.

Your first saw should be at least a good contractor saw, nothing less. Those cheap ones are sooo dangerous, even for someone that has used one for many years.

Please treat it as such.

Did I mention that your cuts will suck? The rules change – and so does the safety level with a real table saw.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116560 posts in 3411 days


#3 posted 01-11-2017 01:00 PM

In my suggestion I may have wrongly assumed you had a standard size contractor table top,I assumed the same thing David mentioned is the bulk of your trouble is because of a bad fence,all the more reason to have a sled set up.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Handi75's profile

Handi75

377 posts in 3308 days


#4 posted 01-12-2017 12:16 AM



Hi Jimmy
There s a couple routes you can take# 1 you could take some 3/4” ply the size of your saws table top and clamp it to you saw s tabletop nice and square to the tops edge and slowly ease the blade through the ply,bring the blade all the way up after lowering the blade down then remove the ply and rout a 3/8”deep groove parallel with your cut the saw blade made say 6” away in the ply the width of your miter gauge if you have one or about 3/4” wide clamp back on saw with the blade up for alignment you now have a miter slot for a sled. If you want you could make 2 grooves each one 6” away from each side of cut you put in the ply so you have a miter slot on both sides of the blade. Option #2 sell your saw and by another saw with miter slots.

- a1Jim


Well, being low income and disabled, this isn’t to much of an option for me, selling it anyway cause I won’t have the money for another one for a few years, so I have to do with what I have at the moment. And I do love your Idea of putting plywood over top and making them that way, I didn’t think of that. Well I think maybe I did, but I thought it would take away from the depth of the cut when I rip stuff. I take that in consideration, I like that idea. Thanks.

-- Jimmy "Handi" Warner, http://www.facebook.com/HandisWorkshop, http://www.facebook.com/HandisCreations, Twitter: @Handisworkshop, @HandisCreations

View Handi75's profile

Handi75

377 posts in 3308 days


#5 posted 01-12-2017 12:21 AM


In my suggestion I may have wrongly assumed you had a standard size contractor table top,I assumed the same thing David mentioned is the bulk of your trouble is because of a bad fence,all the more reason to have a sled set up.

- a1Jim


Jim, if I recall, I have a Photo of my Table Saw in my Workshop Section of the site for a Tour. It will be awhile before I can get a new photo but I can Share a Link to what mine is.

This is exactually what mine Looks like.

-- Jimmy "Handi" Warner, http://www.facebook.com/HandisWorkshop, http://www.facebook.com/HandisCreations, Twitter: @Handisworkshop, @HandisCreations

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116560 posts in 3411 days


#6 posted 01-12-2017 02:48 AM

Ok Jimmy
This is a job site style saw It still might be possible to use my idea if the sliding table locks and you can position the ply so it’s possible to lock it in place with repeatable results. If you are in a position that you can replace this saw even with an old contractor style saw that has a bigger table top and miter slots I think you will have a more functional saw and get better results.
Here’s a great blog detailing the differences in table saws you might find helpful.

http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View NormG's profile

NormG

5878 posts in 2838 days


#7 posted 01-12-2017 11:25 PM

I would follow Jim’s first post information

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View builtinbkyn's profile

builtinbkyn

1921 posts in 774 days


#8 posted 01-12-2017 11:45 PM

Jimmy, others might find fault in this, so take it for what it’s worth. You can make a sled using the existing miter slot and a guide rail on the other side of the sled that rides along the edge of the top. The single runner may be enough, but the rail will provide some insurance against the sled skewing. The rail can also have a hook to engage the bottom edge of the top on the left side. In any situation when using a sled, you’ll need something for it to out-feed on to or it will tip and that would create a dangerous situation.

-- Bill, Yo!......in Brooklyn & Steel City :)

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116560 posts in 3411 days


#9 posted 01-13-2017 12:20 AM

Hi again Jimmy
adding a bit to Bill’s idea you might be able to use the miter slot on the right and screw a sled to your existing sliding table perhaps drill some holes in your sliding table and screw from the bottom into a sled if you have enough clearance. It will be very important to have you sled square to your blade.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Handi75's profile

Handi75

377 posts in 3308 days


#10 posted 01-13-2017 12:41 AM



Hi again Jimmy
adding a bit to Bill s idea you might be able to use the miter slot on the right and screw a sled to your existing sliding table perhaps drill some holes in your sliding table and screw from the bottom into a sled if you have enough clearance. It will be very important to have you sled square to your blade.

- a1Jim

Thanks Jim, I’ll see if I can’t work something out. On mine, I got the Router Leaf on the left and the other leif on the right with the sled part of the leaf. There should be enough clearnace to add a sled onto that one, I’d just have to Square it up everytime I took it off and put it on I think.

I’ll figure something out. I do however have a Standint table saw that has clamps on the bottom for a Circular saw to be added to it to turn it into a Table saw. The main use is just for easier Picture frams and cutting some stuff to length with the same every cut.

When i get around to doing it I’ll post photos of what I got and what I came up with.

-- Jimmy "Handi" Warner, http://www.facebook.com/HandisWorkshop, http://www.facebook.com/HandisCreations, Twitter: @Handisworkshop, @HandisCreations

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