After seeing some excellent ideas on Kerf Cutters I decided to do something a little different. This one uses the measuring tool as part of the jig. This is for the table saw but could be apapted for any machine.
As I see it there are two main issues;
First: and foremost there is the width of the gap for the joint
Second: there is that problemsome issue of the width of cut that stuffs everything up.
I couldn’t see why the measuting device for the assessing the kerf width could not be used.
So a pair of calipers form part of my jig. The kISS approach allways comes first in my book (Keep iut simple stupid). So use the device that measures the gap as part of the jig.
To cover the second issue you need a block that is flush on one edge & the flip side represents an accurate measurement of the width of cut To do that I simply set up an adjustable spring loaded screw on one of the flip sides of what I call “The Adjustmant Block’. I made this out of perspecs
A stop block was made out of perspecs. This has a groove to allow the “Adjustment Block” to align correctily. You may not think this is necessary.
The calipers are supported by perspec blocks, grooved to fit the arm of the caliper. I made a few of these at different widths to allow for various Kerf widths.
First: Set the calipers at zero & the adjustment block screw should be filipped on this line to represent the minimum cut. The adjustment block screw should have been calibrated to the saw cut width before any thing else.
Second: After adjusting the stop block make the first cut where the joint extremity.
Third: Take the calipers & measure & lock the width of the opposite piece to make the joint.
Fourth: Flip the “Adjustment Block” to adjust for the width of the saw blade & put the calipers back to adjust for the next cut.
Fifth: make the next extremity cut.
Sixth: Cut out the waste between the two extremities & you should have a perfect joint.
-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python