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|14 days ago||
Covering lights used when spraying - 2 replies
I’m getting into spraying finishes. For extra light I got a pair of inexpensive shop lights and mounted them on simple stands. Should I be concerned about getting overspray onto the bulbs? I’m going to want to place them close to my spray target to get the most light. Any suggestions for covering them to protect them from overspr...
|50 days ago||
I built and installed cabinet boxes – plywood with poplar face frames – in my 2 bathrooms. I finished the interiors with 3 coats of poly before installation, but didn’t have time to finish the exteriors. I have a couple of questions I was hoping to get some help with: 1. Finishing: These cabinets are to be painted white....
|283 days ago||
I am making speaker cabinets (subwoofers at the moment) out of plywood and mdf. I would like to face-glue 2” wide by 5/16” thick hardwood trim along the edges of the plywood sides to create a frame-and-panel look, cover the joints of the plywood sides, and allow me to run a 3/4” radius roundover over the corners without expo...
|584 days ago||
Politics, religion, AND sex! - 39 replies
Is it appropriate to criminalize an act – pass a law that makes it illegal – with the sole justification that it is considered by the proponents of the law to be an immoral act? The US Supreme Court Justice Antonin Scalia wrote the following in his dissent to Lawrence v. Texas: State laws against bigamy, same-sex marriage, adul...
|773 days ago||
Sealing end grain on outdoor wood - 4 replies
I hope soon to have a wood fence installed – cedar pickets and pressure treated rails, rot board and cap (steel posts). I was thinking it would be helpful to put sealer on the end grain of each piece of wood before installation. Once the fence is constructed I can squirt it with water seal from time to time to try and slow down its rate ...
|787 days ago||
Cedar fence design advice - 4 replies
I have resisted for 20 years, but now I need to fence in my back yard. Homeowner association rules pretty much dictate that , for my situation, I need a 6’ (nominal) cedar fence. Fence height:: I can go with 6’ pickets. I can also run a 6” rot board at the bottom and put 6’ pickets above that for a total height of 6...
|824 days ago||
War on traditional American values? - 123 replies
Fellow Americans, particularly people of faith, I am curious. What are your values? Recently some Western governments, including the US, have begun diplomatic efforts to push African governments to decriminalize homosexuality:http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-16068010http://www.news24.com/Africa/News/Nigeria-gay-rights-crackdown-worries...
|861 days ago||
Surfacing aluminum parts - 8 replies
Any suggestions for flattening the surface of an aluminum bracket? The surface is about 6” long and 2” wide. I would like to be able to take a straightedge to it and not see any slivers of light. The bracket is too large for the sanding disk on my bench top disk/belt sander (6” disk I think). I suspect the belt sander wou...
|966 days ago||
Raised Panels: how tight should they fit? - 14 replies
How tightly should a raised panel fit into the slots of the stiles and rails? What I have now requires firm pressure and maybe a bump or two of the palm to seat the panel into the slot of the frame, and it takes a firm grip to pull them apart. My caliper tells me that the thickness of my panels is a nearly 0.01” thicker than the slot ope...
|973 days ago||
I rigged up a home-built sandling spindle on my drill press. At first I thought it would be a satisfactory stand-in for a spindle sander. However, after using it a bit I found that it left significant scratches in the direction of sanding even with high grits such as 220 and 320. The spindle diameter was 3/4” and I ran it about 1800 rp...
|979 days ago||
Any suggestions for sanding the end grain of raised panels? These panels are to a passage door and have about 5/8” relief. The profile was made with an ogee raised panel bit (amana) and a 3/8” radius cove bit, so the minimum radius of curvature is 3/8” – no corners. The sides running parallel to the grain are easy to...
|1029 days ago||
Erasable marks on visible surfaces- what to use? - 11 replies
What is a good thing to use (and where is a good place to get it) for making easily removed identification marks? Chalk? I sometimes have bad luck erasing pencil marks, so when I need to make a mark or note on a surface that will be visible after final assembly I’ve taken to putting a small piece of painter’s tape on the surface ...
|1039 days ago||
What to do with a small (practice) entry door? - 5 replies
Any ideas on what to do with a very small entry door? I’ve spent the last few months making the blanks for a large interior pocket door. But, never having made a frame-and-panel door before, I’m thinking it might be a good idea to make a small one out of poplar for practice. The practice version was just going to be a single p...
|1047 days ago||
I am making a crosscut sled similar to this one from Rockler and the Dubby from In-line Industries. Any suggestions for how to make the pivot for the fence so that there is no slop? The fence is actually a discontinued Rockler aluminum router table fence, but essentially an aluminum angle about 1/8” or 3/16” thick. My best i...
|1053 days ago||
Panels for thick frame-and-panel interior doors - 5 replies
I am making a thick (1-3/4”) interior frame-and-panel door. The panels are about 9” wide. Having only a 6” jointer I thought the thing to do was resaw 5” wide 8/4 stock to make bookmatched blanks, and use 2 blanks back-to-back to make up the desired thickness – maybe. More likely not all of the bookmached blank...
|1151 days ago||
What is the best glue for laminating? - 17 replies
What is the best glue for attaching 1/4” thick skin onto a flat substrate? I would like plenty of working time ‘cause I work slow. I was going to use original Titebond, but I’ve heard also about someone using DAP plastic resin glue:http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=63&SubcatID=10 I am building an interior...
|1156 days ago||
Making and Gluing 1/4" skins - 1 reply
I am building a stave-core door and I’m looking for suggestions for preparing and gluing the 1/4” skins onto the cores. It seems pretty clear that I should joint the core & plane it to thickness before gluing on the skins. I intend to resaw the skins from 8/4 stock. I intend to joint & plane the faces of the stock, and...
|1216 days ago||
Suggestions for a 48" wide pocket door - 5 replies
In my house I have framed in the hardware for a 48” wide by 80” tall pocket door. Now I need a door. I’m looking for comments and suggestions. The door can be up to 1-3/4” thick. One option would be to build a conventional frame-and-panel door from solid stock. Another option would be to build up a door from plyw...
|1374 days ago||
Gluing up lock-miter joints on plywood carcase - 9 replies
I am making what I thought would be a fairly simple plywood cabinet with drawers – 30” tall, 20” wide and 27” deep. Because it will be on wheels I’m using 3/4” plywood for the sides, back, and top. While I plan to use pocket hole screws on the other parts of the carcase, I decided to use a lock miter to join...
|1399 days ago||
I’m making an outfeed table for my table saw. I’m planning to use plastic laminate on 3/4” plywood for the top. What do I need to do to keep it flat? Overall dimensions will be about 5’ long running along the back edge of the table saw and extending back about 27”. I am sure it would be helpful to seal the ba...