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48" Pocket Door #6: Snipe Hunting: Mahogany faces for the stiles and rails

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Blog entry by GregD posted 1197 days ago 1416 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 5: Edging the Rails and Stiles Part 6 of 48" Pocket Door series Part 7: Stile with embedded T nuts »

My plan called for 1/4” skins to cover the faces of the stiles and rails.

Because I have no prior experience with resawing, I bought some red cedar 2×6’s at the local big box store and did some practicing. Not happy with the initial results I added a Kreg Precision Fence to my bandsaw, and also built a resaw fence. I also switched to a Woodslicer blade.

First I had to joint the faces of the stiles and rails. Generally I don’t notice much snipe from my Dewalt 735 planer. However, I began to see snipe at both ends of longer and heavier pieces after running them through. My parts were not so long that trimming them to final length would remove the snipe. So I used the standard trick of attaching strips of scrap to the outside edges of the work pieces that extend 3” or so beyond the ends of my parts, so any snipe will be limited to the scrap strips and won’t affect the cores. In my case I used the 1/4” red cedar boards I made while practicing my resawing technique.

I used the same trick on the stock that I was resawing for the face skins. Here again, I did not plan for my skin stock to be sufficiently long that I could remove any snipe by simply trimming the skin to length. In this case I glued the scrap strips to the edges of the face skin stock, so each face board would also have scrap extenders. Here are a few pictures:

These extenders also helped to control the stock at the end of the cut when I was resawing the face skins.

Another challenge that I had was that 2 of my rails are wider than what my 6” jointer can handle. When constructing each of these wide cores I first glued up 2 4” wide sections, jointed one face on each of them, and then glued them together while carefully aligning the jointed faces. While they were fairly flat to begin with I still wanted to make one more pass to joint the face. For each stile I edge jointed 1/4” thick scrap strips. I then clamped the stile to the top of my table saw and carefully tacked on the scrap strips making sure they were firmly against the table saw top. This was a “twofer” – it allowed me to face joint these wide parts on my planer and it eliminated any snipe on the parts.

-- Greg D.



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GregD

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#1 posted 1197 days ago

Ooops. I forgot entirely to mention the glue-up of the face skins.

For cauls I used 3/4” plywood cut into approximately 6” x 11” pieces. I also cut strips of Harbor Freight anti fatigue mats. I used these as pads between the plywood cauls and the face skins. Even though the plywood will bend under the pressure of the clamp, it will still manage to compress a fairly large area of foam pad, so it seemed to me that this would help spread the pressure over the large area of the face skins.

I did both sides at the same time. I used Titebond original, and a glue bottle with a 2” roller.

-- Greg D.

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