I offered a couple weeks ago to try to do a tutorial on how to make a coffee cup like this.
The above is teak, it’s composed of 15 separate pieces. You build it like you would a barrel, just smaller.
So, to start you need to find something that will work well as an interior sleeve, I’m partial to stainless so I keep my eyes peeled for any candidates when I’m out and about.
I’ve found these work wonderfully and are cheap.
Here is one out of the box.
The really great thing is that the acrylic sleeve on it is held in place with a single phillips head screw on the bottom.
Before I even get to the math and all that mess and bother I get the lumber into some pretty basic shapes, since I do most of this on a table saw, and I have a very deep love of my fingers I usually cut my boards at 2x the height of the cup I’m working with, I usually leave about 1/4 inch more than necessary so I have room to screw up.
The cups I’m working with are 6.25” pay attention to the taper on the cup if there is one, otherwise you will be cutting the boards too short. The boards above I cut at 1’ 1” to make sure I had plenty of room for error, I’m using black locust from a local sawmill, usually I cut and plane my own, but I ran out out and someone made an order for more. Now for the part that will take the longest amount of time, cutting the boards into slats.
Decide on the thickness of the slats you are going to be working with, you need to decide this based on what you intend the final piece to look like, obviously if you are going to be doing heavy releif carving or want to do some interesting lathe work, you are going to need to have your slats thicker. I’m planning on doing these on a lathe, I’ve found that anything less than 1/4” is too thin for doing anything on a lathe with these. So set the table saw at just above 3/8” and get to it.
Recall I said REALLY like my fingers? The first slat you cut is going to be your push stick, I suggest sanding the back end of it round for comfort’s sake. If you have trouble deciding on the best and safest way to mill this through please let me know and I’ll be happy to explain further.
I do lots of these when I do them, normally I do them in sets of 8 cups at a time. For one cup with a 3.5” diameter you need maybe 15-20 slats at 1” wide, that is actually much more than you really need, but I’ve found it difficult to get it perfect the first time, so I like to hedge my measurements on the high side until I’m checking the fit of everything, can’t add more to the width but I can take some away.
Now it’s time for the chop saw, I measure, set a block in place so I’ve got uniform length for the slats, cut ONE and measure it against the cup, adjust if necessary, cut the rest. Check, double, and triple check your measurements on everything from this point on, you screw it up from here on, you’re starting over.
This is the point where you need to do some math.
You need to determine the circumference of the top and bottom, as a reminder you do this by multiplying the diameter by pi.
3.25 x pi = approx 10.205” circumference NOTE: I am using the outside diameter of the cup’s rim, this is intentional.
2.625 x pi = 8.243 circumference.
Measure off the width of your slats, decide on a reasonable number, usually use between 12-15 per cup. On these I’m doing 12 per cup.
So, at this point you want to figure out how to bevel your slats, I’m using 12 slats, so….
12 slats with 2 faces each = 24 seperate bevels.
360 / 24 = 15 degree bevel.
At this point I discovered that my camera was dead, I’m going to do a few more cups soon, so I’ll take more pictures and make sure to have my camera charged.
I’m going to stop here as there are a couple more tricks I’ve found for making these that are easier to show with pictures than explain with words like making a jig for cutting the slats, which is kinda important as it keeps your hands clear of the blade as well as keeping the width and taper of the slats uniform.
Hopefully I’ll have more to add to this soon,
Cheers everyone and good luck in your endeavors.