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Home Built 13" Jointer #12: Assembly - Part 1

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Blog entry by Ger21 posted 04-12-2016 01:54 AM 888 reads 2 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 11: Getting Ready for Assembly Part 12 of Home Built 13" Jointer series Part 13: Table Lifting Screw »

Started out Sunday morning with mounting and wiring the switch. I wasn’t sure if it would fit in the location that I had originally planned, but I managed to squeeze it in there.

I ran into a little problem when installing the belt guard. The screws that go into the cabinet go into t-nuts. I didn’t want to use 4” long screws at the top, so I was just going to drill an undersize hole and thread the machine screws into the wood (This actually holds surprisingly well if you have enough threads engaged). Sure enough, while drilling the last hole, I hit one of the screws for the bearing mounting plates.
My first thought was to just cut the screw down, and epoxy it into the guard, making it a “dummy” screw. But after seeing that is was almost perfectly aligned with the interfering screw, I tried drilling through it. Simple. Just had to order a tap from Ebay ($4) to finish the job.

View of the dust chute below the cutterhead.

I had drilled and countersunk the mounting screw holes in the motor cover before painting it. Shimmed it to center it in the opening, drilled through, installed t-nuts, and mounted the cover. Came out perfect.

View from the back with frame attaches to base.

Installed the mounting plates for the outfeed table…

Then installed the parallelogram….

I then set the infeed table onto the parallelogram, and the holes didn’t line up???
Earlier in the build, I had assembled the parallelogram with the links backwards. I thought that I must have drilled the table mounting holes with the links backwards. And not only did the holes not line up, but the top rails of the parallelogram hit the bearing mounts when I lowered the table.
My first though was to cut about 1/2” off the front of the rails, to clear the bearing mounts. And redrill the mounting holes in the rails, and move the t-nuts. This would leave me with an extra hole in the table that I couldn’t use, and I again thought of a “dummy” bolt to fill the hole.
I then called it a day and went in to watch the Masters.

Later that evening, I thought about making new top rails that would eliminate the “dummy” bolt. So I went out to mull over my options. After a few minutes, I noticed that when I lowered the table, it was moving into the cutterhead.
I had assembled the parallelogram BACKWARDS!!

It took about an hour to take it all apart and reassemble it correctly, and what do you know, it works again :-)

The infeed table has a slight twist to it, but it flattens out nicely when bolted to the rails. I need to pick up some feeler gauges to check for flatness before I can shim it flat.
It looks like the cutterhead is about 1/32” higher in the back than in the front, so I need to shim the parallelogram to get it even before I can shim the table flat. Not sure what to use, but I’m thinking that aluminum tape for ductwork would be a good choice, although it’ll take maybe 5-6 layers?
I need to try to get a good measurement before I do this, so I’ll be taking my time with this step.

Here’s where it stands now, waiting for the screw assembly before I can actually mount the infeed table.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com



1 comment so far

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DIYaholic

19178 posts in 2139 days


#1 posted 04-12-2016 02:11 AM

Looking good….
Anxiously awaiting “first chips”....

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

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