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Home Built 13" Jointer #11: Getting Ready for Assembly

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Blog entry by Ger21 posted 04-10-2016 12:37 PM 1018 reads 1 time favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 10: Parallelogram Part 11 of Home Built 13" Jointer series Part 12: Assembly - Part 1 »

Been working away at painting for the last few weeks.
Had another near catastrophe. When I started, I had 5-1/2 spray cans of Rustoleum Deep Blue Hammered paint. I’ve been using silver as a base/primer, as it’s readily available locally. After I finished the frame, I was down to 1-1/2 cans, and thought I should probably order another case. That’s when I discovered that this color is no longer available.. :-(
I had thought about painting the base a different color, and did some renderings to see if I liked them. I liked a white base the most, and almost ordered a case of hammered white.
But I like the blue better, and thought I could finish with what I have. It takes two coats when I go over the silver, as the first seems to “fisheye” a little and show silver dots, so I use a light first coat, followed by a heavy 2nd coat an hour later.
So I used up my 1/2 can for most of the first coat, and grabbed the last full can. Pushed the button, and…. nothing.
Tried again, and got a few small drops. As a last resort, I replaced the nozzle with the one from the empty can. A few more drops. I think the tube inside the can was slightly clogged, as it eventually started spraying. What a relief. I got the base painted with 1/2 can to spare. Hopefully that 1/2 can will be enough to do the fence when I make it.
Painting large surfaces with hammered paint is very tricky. And even harder with spray cans. if the thickness varies, the texture and color will vary slightly. Ideally, rolling it quickly gives the most uniform look, but this blue was only available in spray cans. Ideally, you want to spray the surfaces horizontally, where you can lay on a nice thick coat. But that’s not an option when you have to do 4 sides of a box.
Most of it came out pretty even, but the front (of course) is a little streaky. Oh well, I did what I could.
Here’s the frame and base before I get ready to start assembly.

Before assembly, I needed to make the leveling feet. I found this tip years ago on a CNC website, and it’s simple and works great. Get some hockey pucks, and counterbore a 3/4” hole 1/4” deep in the center. Then drill a 3/8” through hole, and insert a carriage bolt. Add washer, nut (with a little loctite) and you have soft, non slip, anti-vibration leveling feet for a total cost of under $10.

This machine is rather large, and I have a small garage, so I originally had designed two wheel into the base, to make it mobile. But I never liked the way it looked, and was unsure how stable it would be, so I went with the 4 pucks at the corners.
I then came up with an idea for some hidden wheels on one end. I picked up some hinges, and used a scrap piece of walnut to mount the wheel to the bottom.

When not in use, they fold up inside the base.

While the jointer will probably weight about 250lbs, it’s pretty easy to lift one end to let the wheels drop down, then move it around like a wheelbarrow.

Wheels down:

Wheels Up.

I installed the dust chute with some silicone. It was a snug fit, so a few dabs of silicone should hold it just fine. But I think I’ll screw two small scrap blocks to hold the side spacers, as it’ll be very difficult to do later if it comes loose.

To make the table raising mechanism a little smoother, I’m mounting the screw in bearings. I bought a small piece of 1/2” phenolic, and cut it in half. Then counterbored with a 22mm boring bit for the bearings, and drilled a 9/16” through hole. Using an 8mm nut and bolt for clamping, I epoxied the two pieces together.

Some fine tuning on the disc sander got me a nice fit into the pocket that I had routed on the CNC a looong time ago.

Here’s the plan for mounting the handwheel and screw.
I need to cut the screw and turn down the end to fit in the 8mm bearings. I’ve done this before for my CNC, so I have a jig to hold the screw like a lathe, and I use an angle grinder and files to “turn” it down. It doesn’t need to be that critical here.
The hand wheel has a 12mm bore. So my plan is to take a 1/2” bolt, chuck it in my lathe, and file about 1/32” off of the threads until the wheel fits. Then I’ll bore an 8mm hole in the end, and epoxy it onto the end of the screw. I’ll epoxy the handwheel onto the threaded portion of the screw, and hold it in place with an acorn nut.
The bearing block will be permanently captured in this assembly. Not sure how I’ll clamp this up right now. I may add threads to the 8mm screw, and tap the 1/2” bolt so that it screws on. Or I just may wrap some tape on it to hold it in place.
Today I put the motor in, wire up the switch, and start assembling.
Getting closer.

-- Gerry, http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/index.html http://www.jointcam.com



2 comments so far

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

5257 posts in 3350 days


#1 posted 04-10-2016 12:42 PM

Dang Gerry, that is looking sweet.
Thanks for all the bow by blow.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View CharlieK's profile

CharlieK

467 posts in 3261 days


#2 posted 04-10-2016 04:31 PM

Wow! I am interested to see how it works for you!

-- Adjustable Height Workbench Plans http://www.Jack-Bench.com

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