Got the top stainless steel attached.
I ended up holding them in place with two screws each, carefully tightened to hold them tight without distorting them. (It’s really amazing how much force a screw can exert)
Then clamped the the two tables together face to face.
After clamping, I was a bit concerned that the epoxy would get trapped in the middle and leave me with “domed” tables. But they ended up pretty good. They are very stiff, with the steel on both sides.
Checking the tables across their width, they are perfectly flat except for a few thousandths of a dip in some spots near the front edges. This won’t have any effect on face jointing, and as long as I don’t edge joint using the first inch of the cutterhead, it’s not an issue. Most edge jointing is done near the back anyway.
Along their length, there’s a slight concave bow, which should easily be adjusted flat when installed. The outfeed is mounted with threaded rods, and is easy to adjust. The infeed table will need to be shimmed to get it perfect.
All in all, I think they are as flat as they could be, given the tools I had to work with.
I cleaned up the epoxy squeeze out on the surfaces with an ROS, and then used the countersink to clean the epoxy out of the previously countersunk holes.
I pre-drilled the remaining holes with a vix bit, and epoxied the screws in place with very light pressure. There purpose is to just minimize any chance of the epoxy bond braking, which should never happen. We’ll see how it deals with the temperature extremes in my garage.
There’s a lot of epoxy on the sides of the steel which I’ll clean up with a router and straightedge, then I can get them ready for paint.
Here’s a few more pics. I’ll be working on the parallelogram today.