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Education and torment #2: Red Oak Sandpaper Storage cabinet

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Blog entry by GeneR posted 191 days ago 803 reads 1 time favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Canary wood Box Part 2 of Education and torment series no next part

This cabinet is made from leftover red oak, Luan, birch plywood and plexiglass that I had in my shop.

It is approximately 17”T x 7 1/2”W x 6” deep.

I would have liked to make it a little taller to handle a couple more shelves and slightly deeper to have been able to recess the back panel.

The Box I first sent the oak through the joiner to ensure I had 1 flat square edge. I then cut the board to the proper widths on my table saw then to final lengths on the Miter saw. The lengths were close but no exact as this was going to be a shop storage cabinet with no specific location to fit in.

Once the sides were cut to length I used the Rockler box joint jig with a 1/2” straight cut bit on the router table to cut the box joints. This was the first time using this jig and it is an excellent product, Although I got in a hurry and for got to rotate one of the boards on the last corner which resulted in a messed up corner that I had to redo and fill with putty later on.

At this point I dry fitted the box together and used a Woodpecker center scale ruler to find the inside center of the box to start laying out my shelves. After finding the inside center I used the same ruler to get the center of the top and bottom sections above the halfway point and repeated the process to get all my shelves laid out at equidistance’s.

Note: I did not worry about blade width when laying these out as I would put the mark in the middle of the 2 dado blades.

I then inserted a dado blade into the table saw, spaced to accommodate the luan shelving thickness to allow them to slide in with minimal friction. After cutting the dados I then inserted a regular Freud blade into the table saw and cut the shelves to size.

I then dry fit it together to check clearances.

Next I cut the back panel out of Luan to cover the entire box back with a slight over hang which would be trimmed later with a trim router and flush cut bit.

At this point I sanded and finished the inside of the box carcass using Danish oil and the shellac using a French polish application technique and final rubbing with clear wax once the shellac had dried. I then glued and clamped the carcass till dried. I measured from corner to corner to ensure the box was square before leaving to dry.

While the box was drying I sanded and finished the shelves and back plate in the same manner as the inside of the box, then set then aside to dry.

At this point it was onto the door Panel

I measured the box and cut the stiles to slightly longer length and then the rails by adding an extra 1/2” to the measurements to accommodate a 1/4” tongue on each side of the rails. I dry fit these together and measured for my insert and cut the 1/4” thick plexi on the table saw and once again dry fit it together. I then sanded and finished the interior of the frame to prevent scratching the plexi later. I have a picture frame jig I used to clamp the door square as the glue was drying and I set it aside as well.

I removed the clamps and then sanded and finished the box carcass.

Note: Before sanding I used a chisel to remove excess glue bleed and then sanded to 150 grit. Next I made some wood putty with sanding dust and tightbond 2 and filled all gaps and let dry about an hour. Then sanded to 220 grit.

I then rounded off all edges with a 4” edge rounding plane and sanded them with a 220 grit sanding sponge then finished the exterior of the box and set aside to dry.

I then went back to the door and I used a trim router with a round over bit to cut the door handle groove, sanded and finished it then set aside to dry for a day or more.

As they were drying I cut some 2” tabs out of Birch plywood and rounded on the bench top disc sander then finished and glued to the shelves.

When everything was dry I installed the back plate and used the trim router to trim it to size with a flush cut bit. I then used a Dremel tool with a plunge router base to cut out the hinges on the door and box then installed them on the door first then the box side, I just find this way easier for me.

Note: Take your time as the hinges will always need slight adjusting.

I then used a forstner bit to countersink some magnets into the box front corners and some washers on the door to hold it closed. I cleaned everything then reinstalled the shelves. The shelves were made removable to 2 reasons 1. for ease of getting a drill and screwdriver in the box to mount it to the wall and 2. so that I f I wanted a really large amount of a particular grit I could remove a shelf for more room.

Well I hope you enjoy the read and education that I gave myself. Feel free to comment or ask any questions as I hope I will have answers.

-- Failure is always an option. :-)



3 comments so far

View sgmdwk's profile

sgmdwk

258 posts in 469 days


#1 posted 191 days ago

Nice, functional storage. I might rip off your design for my own shop.

-- Dave K.

View GeneR's profile

GeneR

146 posts in 534 days


#2 posted 191 days ago

Have at it Since I got it hung and filled I love it and now it is the second nicest cabinet in my filthy shop. lol

-- Failure is always an option. :-)

View Wagon173's profile

Wagon173

22 posts in 128 days


#3 posted 101 days ago

Ya, that goes two-fold. I’m about to have one hanging up in my shop, also. I was thinking about taking my grandpa’s approach and just filing them in a small file drawer, but this looks so much better and like a good bit of fun to build. And as fate would have it I have a french cleat with about a sheet of sandpaper’s worth of open space! :)

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