Murphy Bed #4: Part 4

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Gene47 posted 04-19-2009 05:37 AM 3100 reads 0 times favorited 1 comment Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Part 3 Part 4 of Murphy Bed series Part 5: Face Panels »

Last time I got a mite confused on laying out the hardware on the side rails and came very close to making a boo boo. Before I got too far I went back to the DVD and watched a segment that cleared things up.

You put the left rail on the right and the right rail on the left with the top facing away from you. It is very important that the hardware gets mounted correctly in relation to a 1” dia hole that is bored thru each side rail.

Once I got all that figured out I and done I transferred all the locations to a Jig that I made so that for future beds I can lay the jig on the correct side rail and use a transfer punch to mark the hole locations and presto all done.

I made the jig so that one side is for the right rail and the other is for the left. I also have some more things to add when I get to making the face panels. I made the jig big enough so that I can locate the holes for the foot hinges with the same jig.

(I will clean up the labeling later but you can see that I had to mark out and relabel or I would have put all the hardware on the wrong side of the rails.

Location Jig Early Stages

Next I got out the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig to set up and do a test run. Since this was my first time I sure didn’t want to use a finished piece.

The plans call for screwing the foot and header rail to the side rails straight from the head and foot but then there would be 8 screw heads that would be visible so the pocket holes did the trick. Also there are an additional 10 1 1/4” screws holding the inner frame to the side rails and 6 more on each end.

Pocket Holes

After getting the Pocket holes drilled I set about attaching all the rails to the inner frame. I first attached the two side rails making sure they were flush to the ends of the inner frame then I installed the head rail and foot rail using the same procedure. Once they were attached to the inner frame I attached all for corners with the pocket hole screws.

Attaching Rails

Rail Assembly

NOTE: Anyone that is going to use this system I made one discovery today.

The lengths of the Head and Foot that are given in the instructions are correct if you your material is exactly 3/4”. Guess what? That did not dawn on me until I tried to put the the Head Rail on and realized that my Plywood is not 3/4” but slightly less. Glad it was too long not too short. So I had to set up and trim the ends off and put new edge banding on. Also take into account the thickness for your edge banding.

All in all not a bad day. Again I am not working at a real fast pace but am enjoying it all

-- Gene Miller - it only took me 3 days 9 hours and 28 minutes to get that top flat!

1 comment so far

View Chris Davis's profile

Chris Davis

1560 posts in 3951 days

#1 posted 04-19-2009 11:45 PM

I do that a lot. I usually take off about a 1/16” each time I cut. Your right most isn’t 3/4” thick and after you add the edge banding your off quite a bit.

I still put the regular screws in the head side and the pocket holes in the foot end of the side rails. You wont see the head ever.

-- Watch live video from our shop.!current-projects/c3c1

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics