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    <title>Geedubs's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:02:34 GMT</pubDate>
    <description></description>
    <item>
      <title>Chisels, Planes and a Wet/Dry Grinder (Delta 23-700)</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog/17956</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>As a hobbyist, I am just now moving toward more hand-tool work and  have purchased some decent chisels, a bullnose plane and a low-angle block plane.  I also have a honing guide and water stones on the way.  I want to re-work some old chisels that I have, keep my new chisels/planes sharp and perhaps, be able to restore old planes or chisels that I might be able to find sleuthing around garage sales, etc.</p>


	<p>My question has to do with the option of a suitable bench top grinder.  I currently have a cheap, 6&#8221;, single speed dual wheel grinder which frankly scares me, is very noisy&#8230;and is just poor quality.  It looks like I may have the opportunity to pick up a used Delta 23-700 wet/dry grinder for $35-40.  I have read multiple negative reviews and comments about this machine but still wonder if it is a decent option for me, considering the price.  My needs for grinding are limited so I don&#8217;t want to make a big investment.  I also have a small shop area and have some concerns about the size of the 23-700.</p>


	<p>Thoughts/suggestions?  I really appreciate having you all as a resource.  Enjoy the day!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:02:34 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog/17956</guid>
      <author>Geedubs</author>
      <dc:creator>Geedubs</dc:creator>
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    <item>
      <title>Stanley Low Angle Block Planes</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog/17812</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I am looking for a block plane and the Stanley low angle planes appears to get a lot of good comments.  I notice that there is more than one model out there, however.  For example, one is the Stanley 12-139 Bailey No.60-1/2 Low Angle Block Plane  and another is the Stanley 12-960 Contractor Grade Low Angle Plane.  Can someone explain the differences (other than the obvious price differences?)?</p>


	<p>I am also interested in finding some good online videos demonstrating techniques for sharpening chisels and plane irons.  Any suggestions?</p>


	<p>Thanks!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 03:43:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog/17812</guid>
      <author>Geedubs</author>
      <dc:creator>Geedubs</dc:creator>
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      <title>Delta Scroll Saw--Questions</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog/17739</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I just picked up a used Delta 40-560 scroll saw for $40 off of Craigslist&#8230;that frugal marketplace for the carefully adventurous.  It needed some cleanup, including a thorough cleaning of the table with Simple Green, sandpaper and wax.  It now looks pretty darned good although it looks like I have to realign the table to the blade.  My concerns are primarily related to the blade.  Being a scroll saw virgin, I did not know anything about traditional chucks vs. quickset chucks.  Although this scroll saw is  409-560 TYPE 2, it did not come with the quickset chuck for the top of the blade (the bottom is the standard mount that uses the provided tool).  Unfortunately, the blade changing instructions in the manual (downloaded from Delta&#8217;s website) only provides information on changing the blade using quickset.  I have checked on the quickset chuck and can apparently get one for about $25 at the Delta service center (appears to be a pretty good price based upon a quick search on the internet).  Although the changing from the traditional to the quickset is supposedly a little tricky, the tech at the service center says it is not difficult for someone to do.  Is the quickset worth it?  I also cannot find any clear instructions for how to change the blade with the original chuck.  It has a wire spring clamp holding the back together and a bolt/nut combo through the front of the chuck.  It appears that the blade is inserted after loosening the nut and then the nut/bolt are tightened down on the blade end while trying to keep the blade and chuck properly aligned.  I cannot tell for sure where the blade is mounted in the chuck but it appears to be just in front of the bolt (as opposed to between the bolt and the spring clamp).  I only plan on using the saw occasionally and will not be doing production work.  Mostly, I just want the ability to do some tight cutting if a design calls for it.  Any thoughts, recommendations, suggestions regarding this would be appreciated.</p>


	<p>Also, I stopped at Woodcraft and asked about a universal blade that would be the most effective for routine work on 1/2&#8221; or 3/4&#8221; wood.  The staff suggested the Olson skip tooth No. 9 with 11.5 TPI.  I have tried it and it seems a little light weight and does not seem to cut very well.  I did make sure that the teeth point down so I think it is properly installed.  Any ideas regarding blades.</p>


	<p>I love this forum as an information resource.  Thanks in advance for your thoughts.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:17:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/Geedubs/blog/17739</guid>
      <author>Geedubs</author>
      <dc:creator>Geedubs</dc:creator>
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