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Delta Scroll Saw--Questions

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Blog entry by Geedubs posted 08-31-2010 04:17 PM 7675 reads 0 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I just picked up a used Delta 40-560 scroll saw for $40 off of Craigslist…that frugal marketplace for the carefully adventurous. It needed some cleanup, including a thorough cleaning of the table with Simple Green, sandpaper and wax. It now looks pretty darned good although it looks like I have to realign the table to the blade. My concerns are primarily related to the blade. Being a scroll saw virgin, I did not know anything about traditional chucks vs. quickset chucks. Although this scroll saw is 409-560 TYPE 2, it did not come with the quickset chuck for the top of the blade (the bottom is the standard mount that uses the provided tool). Unfortunately, the blade changing instructions in the manual (downloaded from Delta’s website) only provides information on changing the blade using quickset. I have checked on the quickset chuck and can apparently get one for about $25 at the Delta service center (appears to be a pretty good price based upon a quick search on the internet). Although the changing from the traditional to the quickset is supposedly a little tricky, the tech at the service center says it is not difficult for someone to do. Is the quickset worth it? I also cannot find any clear instructions for how to change the blade with the original chuck. It has a wire spring clamp holding the back together and a bolt/nut combo through the front of the chuck. It appears that the blade is inserted after loosening the nut and then the nut/bolt are tightened down on the blade end while trying to keep the blade and chuck properly aligned. I cannot tell for sure where the blade is mounted in the chuck but it appears to be just in front of the bolt (as opposed to between the bolt and the spring clamp). I only plan on using the saw occasionally and will not be doing production work. Mostly, I just want the ability to do some tight cutting if a design calls for it. Any thoughts, recommendations, suggestions regarding this would be appreciated.

Also, I stopped at Woodcraft and asked about a universal blade that would be the most effective for routine work on 1/2” or 3/4” wood. The staff suggested the Olson skip tooth No. 9 with 11.5 TPI. I have tried it and it seems a little light weight and does not seem to cut very well. I did make sure that the teeth point down so I think it is properly installed. Any ideas regarding blades.

I love this forum as an information resource. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.



19 comments so far

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William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#1 posted 08-31-2010 09:40 PM

While I have a cheaper model Delta saw than yours, I love the quickclamp system. I have also own several other saws, with varying degree difficulties in blade clamps, I have to saw that (IMHO) the quickclamp is the best. I would say it is well worth it.
With the quickset clamp, you adjust a thumbnut to what ever size blade you’ll be using. After you get it set, unless you change to a different size blade, then removing and rechucking the blade is just the matter of flipping a lever.
Also, how do you adjust the tension on your saw? I have the SS250, and once the initial tension is set, after that you just flip a lever for tension or no tension. I don’t know of that is standard on all Delta saws or not.
As I said, I have a cheaper Delta. I bought it on clearance for $59. I’ve been told that it is a beginner saw. However, for me, I’ve been using it for two years and disagree. I actually have used other saw, including a Dewalt, and always prefer my cheap Delta over all others.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Geedubs

143 posts in 1984 days


#2 posted 08-31-2010 11:27 PM

Thanks for your thoughts William on the quickset. Regarding the tensioning system, I am just learning it but the saw has a lever which is moved from front to back to create/secure the tension. The degree of tension can be modified by using a knob which is located near the tension lever. Sounds like your version of the saw does not have that.

-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.

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William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#3 posted 09-01-2010 05:13 AM

Yes, that is exactly the style tensioner I have. I’m sorry. Maybe I didn’t explain it good. Once you get that knob on top set right though, you’ll hardly ever need to touch it. My Delta SS250 is what I use for detail work. I use almost exclusively Flying Dutchman #3 spirals on it. The tension adjustment knob hasn’t been touched in over a year. All I have to do is flip the lever forward or back to remove or add tension.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#4 posted 09-01-2010 08:32 AM

I was just on Ebay and happened across your model saw. It’s the exact same saw as the SS250 I have. So I went over to my shop to check on a hunch. I thought I had two SS250s. It turns out that somewhere along the way, Delta must have changed the model numbers. Both my Delta saws are identical in every way, except one is a SS250 and one is a 40-560.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Geedubs

143 posts in 1984 days


#5 posted 09-01-2010 03:36 PM

Interesting. I will keep that in mind. Thanks William.

-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.

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William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#6 posted 09-01-2010 06:31 PM

Geedubs, this topic caught my attention. So, after a LOT of searching on the internet, this is what I’ve come up with. The SS250 and the 40-560 are in fact the exact same saws. The SS250 however was sold as a Delta Shopmaster while the 40-560 was sold simply as a Delta. From what I can gather, this only mattered because some stores carried Delta, while some stores dealt with an aftermarket supplier that carried the Shopmaster MADE by Delta. The only other big difference is that the 40-560 series was sold with a stand included. If you wanted the stand with the SS250, it was sold seperately.
Then, just as I was typing this, I got a message from a guy I was asking about this. He also informed me that the 40-560 came in a type I and type II. One came with clamps you had to use tools with and one that was tool-less (quickclamp II system). He couldn’t remember which was which.
Also worthy of mentioning, in my opinion, is that the Delta so called “tool less” system (at least on my SS250) does in fact require a tool for the bottom clamp. Now, I know they did make some of the better Deltas with the quick clamp fixtures on top and bottom. I know this because I went one time to look at a 20” Delta that had it. I seen it on Craiglist and really wanted it. Too bad another guy was counting out the cash as I pulled up to see it.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Geedubs

143 posts in 1984 days


#7 posted 09-01-2010 08:19 PM

Thanks again William. Sorry about the 20” Delta…timing can be everything.

I am inserting some pictures here. One is of the overall saw; another is of the tag/label which shows the model, including in being Type II (although a little blurry…ok, quite blurry); and two close-ups of the chuck.




-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.

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William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#8 posted 09-01-2010 10:08 PM

That top chuck IS the quick clamp chuck. It’s missing the tension lever and spring. Order the quick clamp and replace the missing parts. When you get the new chuck, look at the diagram at it will become clear to you how everything goes. One thing though. On both my saw, on the quick clamp chuck, I long ago stripped out the plastic thumb screw that it comes with. I use a machine screw and wing nut in it’s place. Oh, and on one of them, I lost the spring. It’s just a little spring that keeps everything from falling apart when you release tension on the chuck. I replaced mine by taking the spring out of an ink pen, cutting it the length I needed and sticking it all back together.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Geedubs

143 posts in 1984 days


#9 posted 09-01-2010 10:16 PM

I wondered about that. Thanks William. By the way, where does the blade actually mount in the chuck? Is it supposed to go in front of the bolt/nut or behind it?

-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.

View William's profile

William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#10 posted 09-01-2010 10:46 PM

I guess that depends on how you look at it. If you’re sitting (or standing) in front of the saw, ready to cut, it goes on the side of the bolt closest to you. When the chuck is assembled correctly, there will be a little thumb lever on the left side of the chuck. Sometimes it take a little playing with it to get the adjustment set just right. After that though, you’ll just flip the lever out away from the chuck, slip the blade into the front of the adjustment screw that runs through the chuck, then flip the lever back towards the chuck to clamp the blade. Swing the tension lever back away from you and start cutting.
After you get the chuck problem fixed, my next purchase suggestion for you, if you don’t already have one, is a foot switch. I don’t know how I could live without mine, especially on detail work that may break easily. The switch on the saw stays on all the time when I’m at the saw. Step on the foot switch to start cutting. Step on it again to stop cutting. I cut the saw switch off when I’m away from the saw because I have kids. They have on occasion (even though they’re not supposed to) played under my saw table and hit the foot switch. It doesn’t hurt the saw, but if the tension is off the blade, the noise will scare the hell out of every one.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Geedubs

143 posts in 1984 days


#11 posted 09-01-2010 10:48 PM

Great, thanks William. Your time invested in being of assistance is truly appreciated.

-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.

View William's profile

William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#12 posted 09-01-2010 11:02 PM

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-40560-type-1634-scroll-saw-parts-c-3275_3505_14017.html?sort=5a&page=1
This is a link to the parts diagram to your saw. Part #39 on there is the thumb lever. If it’s got the original bottom clamp and you haven’t got it, you’re also going to need part #119, the blade wrench for changing the blade at the bottom clamp. This is just a tool a pin that holds the bottom clamp in the correct position while the allen wrench part of the tool goes into the bolt to loosen and tighten the bolt. The whole operation can be done without it, but this tools makes it a lot easier. I know it can be done because on a particular hectic day, I once lost this tools in a pile of sawdust. It took me two day to find it. I finally found it when I got the idea to use a magnet to locate it’s whereabouts.
The spring you need is part #41. If you’re going to order the entire clamp assembly though, it’ll have the lever and spring in it.
I hope that helps.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Pdub

898 posts in 1935 days


#13 posted 09-01-2010 11:12 PM

I have a Delta 20 in. ( not sure of the model #) It did not come with the quick set, but I bought it as an add on. It was worth every penny that I paid for it. It cut blade change time in half. The old system used an allen wrench and was a real pain in the (well you know)! I bought an RBI scroll saw since the Delta and had to purchase a quick set for it. I paid $50 for it because I knew how much I liked them. Hope this helps with your decision.

-- Paul, North Dakota, USAF Ret.

View William's profile

William

9287 posts in 1597 days


#14 posted 09-01-2010 11:20 PM

You’re right Pdub. With practice, when cutting portrait I timed it one time, I can unclamp a blade, thread it through the next hole in the bottom of my project, reclamp, swing back the tension, and be cutting again in under 15 seconds.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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Geedubs

143 posts in 1984 days


#15 posted 09-01-2010 11:20 PM

Thanks Pdub and William (again).

-- Todos los dias aprendemos algo nuevo.

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