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A new dining room set for my wife!

171K views 556 replies 109 participants last post by  SATXmarine1 
#1 ·
I begin at the begining. Where else?

Well, I had a couple more things I wanted to make first, but my wife kind of changed my priorities for me.

She started out by commenting on how the new ones looked in the store, and then started with how nice a new one would look in our dining room. I took the hint.

So, where to start? Well, I asked her what she wanted and I got, "I don't know, just make something. I trust you."

Hmm… No restrictions! That's nice. Now what do I want?

Chairs would be the main attraction for me so I looked at everything I could find. I like something around a Queen Ann and the Chippendale style.

I wanted something not too complex, after all I would be making 6 to 8 of them. I like cabriole legs so I'll use them for the front legs. Complex but not overly so.

For the back legs and back I wanted something very comfortable, so I am going to add some complexity by making a curved back with lumbar support. Something you can lean back in after eating and be very comfortable.

I was thinking about doing a carved splat for the back but thought that would be a little too much so I decided to upholster the back and seat for more comfort.

Here's my plan:

Brown Wood Floor Flooring Rectangle


I know that you can see it too well but it's the entire thing in full scale.

Off to the left edge you can see some templates I used to find the right shape for the back. On the right is a set of "ships curves" I used for the curved part of the drawing.

Next time I'll be starting the back legs.
 

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#183 ·
Let's see, where was I. Oh, yea! Let's finish the legs!

Well, that was a lot of gluing to get all those knee blocks in place.

Now I could just sand them flush with the leg but that makes a lot of sawdust so I figured that I would use a chisel to remove the majority of extra wood. You can see in the picture below that I made a quick bench hook to support the leg while I worked on it. That and a nice sharp chisel.

Wood Tool Metalworking hand tool Stonemason's hammer Font


You can't really see exactly how I do it since I need one hand to take the picture. I would normally have my left hand pressing the chisel flush to the surface of the leg while I pushed with the right. I also keep the butt of the chisel right at the level of my belt and use my hips to apply pressure. With the pressure from my hip, I am mainly using my right hand to guide the chisel. This makes it real easy to shave off the material.

Wood Finger Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Then I use the spindle sander to sand under where the knee meets the leg. I put a block under the square part of the leg to supports it. This will give it real smooth transition and remove the saw marks from the rest of the knee block.

Fluid Wood Finger Gas Tints and shades


Then back to the belt sander to clean up where the knees meet the leg.

Leg Human body Wood Gesture Thigh


At this point things don't have to be real pretty.

Wood Art Font Hardwood Tints and shades


On the knee at 8 degrees I rounded the transition instead of leaving it square.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Then back in the lathe for two reasons. I can run it a slow speed to sand the round part at the bottom of the leg and hold it while I sanded it with the RO sander. Remember that I trimmed the top of the leg to length already? Well I took one of the cut offs and added 4 little angled pieces to it. This will keep it spinning true and not mark the leg with a hole.

I used 100 grit in the sander to fair all the surfaces nice and smooth. Then I will finish sanding the rest by hand and clean up anything else that needs it. Since that will take so long, I will do about 2 legs a day so it will be a while before you hear from me again. I hate sanding!

It looks a lot better now, huh?

Musical instrument Wood Hardwood Musical instrument accessory Gas


Till next time.
 

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#184 ·
Let's see, where was I. Oh, yea! Let's finish the legs!

Well, that was a lot of gluing to get all those knee blocks in place.

Now I could just sand them flush with the leg but that makes a lot of sawdust so I figured that I would use a chisel to remove the majority of extra wood. You can see in the picture below that I made a quick bench hook to support the leg while I worked on it. That and a nice sharp chisel.

Wood Tool Metalworking hand tool Stonemason's hammer Font


You can't really see exactly how I do it since I need one hand to take the picture. I would normally have my left hand pressing the chisel flush to the surface of the leg while I pushed with the right. I also keep the butt of the chisel right at the level of my belt and use my hips to apply pressure. With the pressure from my hip, I am mainly using my right hand to guide the chisel. This makes it real easy to shave off the material.

Wood Finger Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Then I use the spindle sander to sand under where the knee meets the leg. I put a block under the square part of the leg to supports it. This will give it real smooth transition and remove the saw marks from the rest of the knee block.

Fluid Wood Finger Gas Tints and shades


Then back to the belt sander to clean up where the knees meet the leg.

Leg Human body Wood Gesture Thigh


At this point things don't have to be real pretty.

Wood Art Font Hardwood Tints and shades


On the knee at 8 degrees I rounded the transition instead of leaving it square.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


Then back in the lathe for two reasons. I can run it a slow speed to sand the round part at the bottom of the leg and hold it while I sanded it with the RO sander. Remember that I trimmed the top of the leg to length already? Well I took one of the cut offs and added 4 little angled pieces to it. This will keep it spinning true and not mark the leg with a hole.

I used 100 grit in the sander to fair all the surfaces nice and smooth. Then I will finish sanding the rest by hand and clean up anything else that needs it. Since that will take so long, I will do about 2 legs a day so it will be a while before you hear from me again. I hate sanding!

It looks a lot better now, huh?

Musical instrument Wood Hardwood Musical instrument accessory Gas


Till next time.
Looks great Gary.
 

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#196 ·
Sanding is the pits! Here's something unusual I plan on doing.

First of all some good news. I have finished sanding 3 legs so far! 13 to go :)

Wood Sculpture Art Floor Artifact


Next I want to let you know what I am going to do after I finish sanding them.

I am going to put the finish on them. I have done this before so it's not a concern to me.

I just wanted to show something that will probably be new to some of you.

I always use a water based dye rather than a stain. This actually soaks into the wood fibers and when dry is just like you never dyed it.

To prove my point I have dyed a part of this piece of wood and glued two pieces of wood to it. I just sanded off the raised grain after I dyed.

Then first I tried to pull the pieces off and they both broke off at the edge exactly the same.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Then using another piece of wood and a hammer I tried to knock the wood off. As you can see from the pictures to wood gave way and not the glue joint.

Brown Rectangle Wood Brick Flooring

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor

Wood Rectangle Flooring Tints and shades Hardwood


I plan on doing this to all the parts before assembly. Now I'm not going to actually dye the tenons or inside mortises. That will just waste dye.

I am going to do this for two reasons.

The first is that it will be so much easier to do single pieces than a completed chair. I will get all the parts wet first to raise the grain and then give them a light sanding to knock it off.

Secondly I won't have to worry about cleaning out glue squeeze out nearly as much. I would have to pay real close attention to the glue since it will prevent the dye from soaking in.

I am even considering putting on the first coat of water based poly before assembly. I will be doing some tests before actually committing. We shall see.
 

Attachments

#197 ·
Sanding is the pits! Here's something unusual I plan on doing.

First of all some good news. I have finished sanding 3 legs so far! 13 to go :)

Wood Sculpture Art Floor Artifact


Next I want to let you know what I am going to do after I finish sanding them.

I am going to put the finish on them. I have done this before so it's not a concern to me.

I just wanted to show something that will probably be new to some of you.

I always use a water based dye rather than a stain. This actually soaks into the wood fibers and when dry is just like you never dyed it.

To prove my point I have dyed a part of this piece of wood and glued two pieces of wood to it. I just sanded off the raised grain after I dyed.

Then first I tried to pull the pieces off and they both broke off at the edge exactly the same.

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Then using another piece of wood and a hammer I tried to knock the wood off. As you can see from the pictures to wood gave way and not the glue joint.

Brown Rectangle Wood Brick Flooring

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor

Wood Rectangle Flooring Tints and shades Hardwood


I plan on doing this to all the parts before assembly. Now I'm not going to actually dye the tenons or inside mortises. That will just waste dye.

I am going to do this for two reasons.

The first is that it will be so much easier to do single pieces than a completed chair. I will get all the parts wet first to raise the grain and then give them a light sanding to knock it off.

Secondly I won't have to worry about cleaning out glue squeeze out nearly as much. I would have to pay real close attention to the glue since it will prevent the dye from soaking in.

I am even considering putting on the first coat of water based poly before assembly. I will be doing some tests before actually committing. We shall see.
Interresting info.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

#207 ·
Front legs are finally done! Now on the the back ones, again!

It may seem like I'm hopping back and forth between different parts of this project. Well, you're right.

As of yet I haven't decided exactly how I'm going to do the back legs.

I also just wanted to get the front legs out of the way. They are by far the most work in this project, as you can tell.

I wanted also to get some of the more difficult aspects of this project behind me.

And here they are. All the completed parts ar at that end of the table. You can see I'm gluing up some more material in the back ground.

Wood Hardwood Art Wood stain Lumber


Back to the back legs. The first thing I wanted to do is to make them exactly the same length and I also wanted to change the angle at the top end of the chair. I just used a piece of scrap to help position the piece.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Machine


Since I'm going to upholster the chairs I will need a couple of rails crossing from one leg to the other top and bottom.
I was going to use a router to make the mortises as you can see in the picture below:

Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain


For whatever reason I don't really care for mortises with rounded ends, so I decided to use the mortising machine again. What I did was to add some hardwood along the inside of the holes I already made. Since I am going to use the back fence on the mortising machine I am really only using the ends as stops for the length of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


The lower mortise was easy since I had a nice flat surface to rest against the fence. The top was another matter. What I ended up doing was to position it by eye the first time and then used a blue felt tipped pen to trace out the part. When I did the next part I just made sure that I had a even spacing and that was it.

Wood Rectangle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood stain


Here they are all done.

Wood Flooring Floor Trunk Wood stain


That was the last operation that I needed to do with the part being able to lie flat. Next I will taper the legs.
 

Attachments

#208 ·
Front legs are finally done! Now on the the back ones, again!

It may seem like I'm hopping back and forth between different parts of this project. Well, you're right.

As of yet I haven't decided exactly how I'm going to do the back legs.

I also just wanted to get the front legs out of the way. They are by far the most work in this project, as you can tell.

I wanted also to get some of the more difficult aspects of this project behind me.

And here they are. All the completed parts ar at that end of the table. You can see I'm gluing up some more material in the back ground.

Wood Hardwood Art Wood stain Lumber


Back to the back legs. The first thing I wanted to do is to make them exactly the same length and I also wanted to change the angle at the top end of the chair. I just used a piece of scrap to help position the piece.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Machine


Since I'm going to upholster the chairs I will need a couple of rails crossing from one leg to the other top and bottom.
I was going to use a router to make the mortises as you can see in the picture below:

Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain


For whatever reason I don't really care for mortises with rounded ends, so I decided to use the mortising machine again. What I did was to add some hardwood along the inside of the holes I already made. Since I am going to use the back fence on the mortising machine I am really only using the ends as stops for the length of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


The lower mortise was easy since I had a nice flat surface to rest against the fence. The top was another matter. What I ended up doing was to position it by eye the first time and then used a blue felt tipped pen to trace out the part. When I did the next part I just made sure that I had a even spacing and that was it.

Wood Rectangle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood stain


Here they are all done.

Wood Flooring Floor Trunk Wood stain


That was the last operation that I needed to do with the part being able to lie flat. Next I will taper the legs.
Those are a lot of legs! Keep up the good work, Gary!
 

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#217 ·
Tapering the back legs.

Time to add the taper to the back legs, but first I wanted to see how the chair would feel to sit in:

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Tool


Exactly what I was hoping for. You just seem to melt right into it. Even without the back upholstered it felt great.

Now to the tapering operation. As it is right now the back of the chair is square. I want to add a little lightness to is so from the lower back rail to the top I am going to add a 1/2" taper on each side for a 1" total.

So the first thing I did was to draw a line for the taper. Then I double checked and checked it again. I don't want to have to make them again.

Then at the bandsaw I just roughed them out.

Wood Tints and shades Flooring Hardwood Art


I was thinking about just running them through the tablesaw, but I would have to tilt them in the middle of the cut to cut everything. I decided against it after a couple of times pretending like I was cutting it. I could have just used a hand plane, but that looked like a lot of work, so I decided to use the planer. I just used a sled that I already made and added to it what I needed to do the job.

Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Hardwood


It took some head scratching to figure it out, but I turned out to be real simple. I took a 1/2" dowel and set the pieces on it at the point I wanted my taper to start. then I added a 1" spacer under the top giving me my 1/2" taper. Then it was just a matter of adding something underneath it for support. Then I screwed everything in place.

Here is my first pair out of the planer:

Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Flooring


And finally all of them complete:

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Next it's time to take that material I was gluing up in the last part to make some rails.
 

Attachments

#218 ·
Tapering the back legs.

Time to add the taper to the back legs, but first I wanted to see how the chair would feel to sit in:

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Tool


Exactly what I was hoping for. You just seem to melt right into it. Even without the back upholstered it felt great.

Now to the tapering operation. As it is right now the back of the chair is square. I want to add a little lightness to is so from the lower back rail to the top I am going to add a 1/2" taper on each side for a 1" total.

So the first thing I did was to draw a line for the taper. Then I double checked and checked it again. I don't want to have to make them again.

Then at the bandsaw I just roughed them out.

Wood Tints and shades Flooring Hardwood Art


I was thinking about just running them through the tablesaw, but I would have to tilt them in the middle of the cut to cut everything. I decided against it after a couple of times pretending like I was cutting it. I could have just used a hand plane, but that looked like a lot of work, so I decided to use the planer. I just used a sled that I already made and added to it what I needed to do the job.

Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Hardwood


It took some head scratching to figure it out, but I turned out to be real simple. I took a 1/2" dowel and set the pieces on it at the point I wanted my taper to start. then I added a 1" spacer under the top giving me my 1/2" taper. Then it was just a matter of adding something underneath it for support. Then I screwed everything in place.

Here is my first pair out of the planer:

Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Flooring


And finally all of them complete:

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Next it's time to take that material I was gluing up in the last part to make some rails.
i had to laugh at the picture
of the 'sitting model'
i kept doing that too
to try out various ideas
and feels
the only model i had at that time
was a folding metal chair
someone had given me
when i moved into my empty first rooms
(not good to design furniture from)

all your solutions are really helpful
learning this the hard way
can eat wood and time
i didn't have a camera then
and didn't know how to do a tutorial anyway
you were the one that helped me post a picture

thank you gary
your help is always timely and invaluable
 

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#230 ·
Made some rails

Not much happening here. Just needed to make the top and bottom rails for the back of the chair.

They will surround the upholstered back like this chair. It's the closest thing I could find the the upholstery method I will be using.

The seat and back will be very similar.

Furniture Chair Natural material Wood Wood stain


It's the same process as I used on the aprons, just very simple. Make the shoulder cuts and then the tenoning jig to make the cheek cuts.

Here is the stack of lower rails.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Flooring Hardwood


And here is a picture showing the lower rail installed.

Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


Making the top rail is the exact same process so I won't bore you with it.

Next time I will add a rabbet all around the inside of the back to receive the upholstered back.
 

Attachments

#231 ·
Made some rails

Not much happening here. Just needed to make the top and bottom rails for the back of the chair.

They will surround the upholstered back like this chair. It's the closest thing I could find the the upholstery method I will be using.

The seat and back will be very similar.

Furniture Chair Natural material Wood Wood stain


It's the same process as I used on the aprons, just very simple. Make the shoulder cuts and then the tenoning jig to make the cheek cuts.

Here is the stack of lower rails.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Flooring Hardwood


And here is a picture showing the lower rail installed.

Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


Making the top rail is the exact same process so I won't bore you with it.

Next time I will add a rabbet all around the inside of the back to receive the upholstered back.
Very nice Gary.
 

Attachments

#235 ·
Time for a rabbet or two. Getting close!

As I showed in the last post, I will be upholstering the back and seat of these chairs. To provide a place to attach the upholstery I need a place to attach it to. For the seat it's easy and obvious. For the back it's a little harder. I decided to add a rabbet to hold it into position and staples to keep it there. This will become clearer when it comes time to upholster them.

Here are all the back legs and a top and bottom rail. I mark them with a big marking pen to make sure I don't cut the wrong area. I also mark the start and end of the cuts. That will make sure I notice when I get close to the end of the cut. Don't want to cut off too much, now do we?

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


For the narrow pieces I use a bigger piece of wood to support it and keep it flat on the table. Otherwise it might tip over.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Gas


Same thing when I'm routing near the tip. I make sure to keep the wider part of the leg on the table and held there.

Brown Wood Amber Flooring Road surface


Here are a couple of completed legs. You will notice that the pattern and color of the legs don't match. I will match them up later.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


You can see the "inside" of the rabbet here. I will chisel the corners square later.

Brown Wood Natural material Plank Varnish


And here is a trail fit. That small taper really makes a difference, huh?

Cabinetry Dresser Chest of drawers Drawer Table


Next time I'll clean up those corners and add some more refinements to the legs.
 

Attachments

#236 ·
Time for a rabbet or two. Getting close!

As I showed in the last post, I will be upholstering the back and seat of these chairs. To provide a place to attach the upholstery I need a place to attach it to. For the seat it's easy and obvious. For the back it's a little harder. I decided to add a rabbet to hold it into position and staples to keep it there. This will become clearer when it comes time to upholster them.

Here are all the back legs and a top and bottom rail. I mark them with a big marking pen to make sure I don't cut the wrong area. I also mark the start and end of the cuts. That will make sure I notice when I get close to the end of the cut. Don't want to cut off too much, now do we?

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


For the narrow pieces I use a bigger piece of wood to support it and keep it flat on the table. Otherwise it might tip over.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Gas


Same thing when I'm routing near the tip. I make sure to keep the wider part of the leg on the table and held there.

Brown Wood Amber Flooring Road surface


Here are a couple of completed legs. You will notice that the pattern and color of the legs don't match. I will match them up later.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


You can see the "inside" of the rabbet here. I will chisel the corners square later.

Brown Wood Natural material Plank Varnish


And here is a trail fit. That small taper really makes a difference, huh?

Cabinetry Dresser Chest of drawers Drawer Table


Next time I'll clean up those corners and add some more refinements to the legs.
moving right along
and as always
well thought out
and done

this is a great tutorial
you give so much
so well explained
and pictured

well done gary
bravo !
 

Attachments

#241 ·
Corners, corners and more corners!

Not much to show for today. A lot of tedious work with a chisel. I cleaned up 32 corners. It gets kind of old after about 20 of them! Took about 2 1/2 hours

Here's what I'm talking about:

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Amber


At the same time I numbered and matched up all the parts for color and texture.

Here they are all assembled:

Wood Flooring Floor Natural material Wood stain


Before I left the shop I chamfered the inside corner below the apron. I just thought that it would look good and be a nice touch. I haven't decided what I am going to to with all the other edges. Probably just a small radius.

You can also see the numbering on the bottom. They will eventually be covered up by plastic glides.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Next is something fancy for the top of the chair back.
 

Attachments

#242 ·
Corners, corners and more corners!

Not much to show for today. A lot of tedious work with a chisel. I cleaned up 32 corners. It gets kind of old after about 20 of them! Took about 2 1/2 hours

Here's what I'm talking about:

Brown Wood Rectangle Wood stain Amber


At the same time I numbered and matched up all the parts for color and texture.

Here they are all assembled:

Wood Flooring Floor Natural material Wood stain


Before I left the shop I chamfered the inside corner below the apron. I just thought that it would look good and be a nice touch. I haven't decided what I am going to to with all the other edges. Probably just a small radius.

You can also see the numbering on the bottom. They will eventually be covered up by plastic glides.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Next is something fancy for the top of the chair back.
I've been thoroughly enjoying this blog Gary, and watching your work progress…
Your methods are so well thought out, that they make even the most difficult procedures seem relatively simple…
Keep up the great work my Friend!!
 

Attachments

#250 ·
Top of the chair, Mate!

Right now the chairs are kind of plain with the straight, square top of the back. I plan to add something to change that.

First I start out with that material I was gluing up a post or two ago. (see I was actually thinking ahead!)

The material I used must have been on the top of the pallet because it had very dark staining. Some places as deep as about 1/4".

The material I need for this step is thicker than any I had, so what I did was to glue up the two pieces with the stained faces facing out. Then I just cut off both the faces and ended up with some nice clean wood. So I killed two birds with one stone. Used some nasty stained wood and made some extra thick stock.

I cut it into strips. Since I only had a few pieces to make I didn't bother with the dado blade. I just started with a cut in the middle and ran both sides of the part against the fence to center the dado. I think it tool a total of 4 passes moving the fence a little farther away every time until I ended up with a nice perfectly centered dado.

Wood Automotive exterior Wood stain Varnish Flooring


While I did that I also did the top rail for the back of the chair. You can see it on the right.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


Then I cut all the parts to length and at the correct angles.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Then I made a little fixture for gluing the parts up. It was real quick to make with some glue and a brad nailer. The gaps and holes are for the glue squeeze out. Those extra little blocks are to give me something to clamp against. You'll see in the last picture. I also clamped it to the table to make sure that it was nice and flat.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Table Hardwood


To make sure dados the lined up I made some little triangles the fit the dado just perfectly. I notched the point of the triangles so that they wouldn't get any glue on them. Here is a mock-up for the gluing.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Here you can see the parts all glued and clamped. You can see what those little block are for. The clamp in the middle is just to hold the center part in place while the clamps on the ends are applying the pressure.

Wood Handheld power drill Gas Tool Hardwood


Since I have only one fixture and 8 parts to glue up, I decided to do some finish sanding while the parts dried.
(have I mentioned that I hate sanding?)

I wet the legs to raise the grain and sanded them once dry. Then I cut them to final length, so minus the finish and assemble they are finally done.

Next time I'll show you the last piece for the top of the chair.
 

Attachments

#251 ·
Top of the chair, Mate!

Right now the chairs are kind of plain with the straight, square top of the back. I plan to add something to change that.

First I start out with that material I was gluing up a post or two ago. (see I was actually thinking ahead!)

The material I used must have been on the top of the pallet because it had very dark staining. Some places as deep as about 1/4".

The material I need for this step is thicker than any I had, so what I did was to glue up the two pieces with the stained faces facing out. Then I just cut off both the faces and ended up with some nice clean wood. So I killed two birds with one stone. Used some nasty stained wood and made some extra thick stock.

I cut it into strips. Since I only had a few pieces to make I didn't bother with the dado blade. I just started with a cut in the middle and ran both sides of the part against the fence to center the dado. I think it tool a total of 4 passes moving the fence a little farther away every time until I ended up with a nice perfectly centered dado.

Wood Automotive exterior Wood stain Varnish Flooring


While I did that I also did the top rail for the back of the chair. You can see it on the right.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Plank


Then I cut all the parts to length and at the correct angles.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Then I made a little fixture for gluing the parts up. It was real quick to make with some glue and a brad nailer. The gaps and holes are for the glue squeeze out. Those extra little blocks are to give me something to clamp against. You'll see in the last picture. I also clamped it to the table to make sure that it was nice and flat.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Table Hardwood


To make sure dados the lined up I made some little triangles the fit the dado just perfectly. I notched the point of the triangles so that they wouldn't get any glue on them. Here is a mock-up for the gluing.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Here you can see the parts all glued and clamped. You can see what those little block are for. The clamp in the middle is just to hold the center part in place while the clamps on the ends are applying the pressure.

Wood Handheld power drill Gas Tool Hardwood


Since I have only one fixture and 8 parts to glue up, I decided to do some finish sanding while the parts dried.
(have I mentioned that I hate sanding?)

I wet the legs to raise the grain and sanded them once dry. Then I cut them to final length, so minus the finish and assemble they are finally done.

Next time I'll show you the last piece for the top of the chair.
This glue-up jig is a nice piece of engineering. Too often, at least for me, I find myself trying to find the most expeditious means to get through an awkward glue-up. Obviously you have given this some thought and come up with a good looking jig. I will have to file this one away for future reference (if I can remember it, that is. :)
 

Attachments

#258 ·
The crest rail addition. Filling it up.

Now you get to see the complete addition to the top of the chair.

It gave me a chance to use my most warped bowed board. Since I was going to cut it into such short lengths it wouldn't be bad at all. Especially since it will be framed inside the dados from the part I made in the last post.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Here you can see the finished product. I resawed the boards, planed them and cut them to the shape you see.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Here it is all installed. I thought that the top parts looked a little clunky and big, so I cut some material off the dado side to make it thinner. (I did this before they were glued up. Compare it to the last picture and you'll see what I mean.

Table Wood Computer desk Writing desk Floor


Now I couldn't just leave it at that could I? I drew up a template and glued it to a piece of 1/2" MDF. Then to the scroll, spindle sander and hand sanding to end up with what you see below.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Gas Circle


Then I glued and brad nailed 3 pieces of wood to it. This allowed me to hold the wood in place while I used the router table on it. Don't let go!

Using a pattern following bit (the bearing on the shank end) I milled an oval cavity.

After everything is finished and I get the time, I plan on making an insert to stick in there. I haven't decided exactly what it will be yet.

Wood Flooring Floor Automotive design Hardwood


Then flipping the jig upside down and using a flush trim bit, I milled out the openings on either side of the oval.

Cutting mat Wood Circle Musical instrument accessory Plywood


And finally you get to see what it will look like completed. Here it is with the thinner top rail parts.

Wood Hardwood Gas Wood stain Plywood


Now since there's not really a good joint when I attach this, and with the tendency of people to grab the top of the chair to move it, in the next post I'll show how I'll reinforce it.
 

Attachments

#259 ·
The crest rail addition. Filling it up.

Now you get to see the complete addition to the top of the chair.

It gave me a chance to use my most warped bowed board. Since I was going to cut it into such short lengths it wouldn't be bad at all. Especially since it will be framed inside the dados from the part I made in the last post.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Here you can see the finished product. I resawed the boards, planed them and cut them to the shape you see.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Here it is all installed. I thought that the top parts looked a little clunky and big, so I cut some material off the dado side to make it thinner. (I did this before they were glued up. Compare it to the last picture and you'll see what I mean.

Table Wood Computer desk Writing desk Floor


Now I couldn't just leave it at that could I? I drew up a template and glued it to a piece of 1/2" MDF. Then to the scroll, spindle sander and hand sanding to end up with what you see below.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Gas Circle


Then I glued and brad nailed 3 pieces of wood to it. This allowed me to hold the wood in place while I used the router table on it. Don't let go!

Using a pattern following bit (the bearing on the shank end) I milled an oval cavity.

After everything is finished and I get the time, I plan on making an insert to stick in there. I haven't decided exactly what it will be yet.

Wood Flooring Floor Automotive design Hardwood


Then flipping the jig upside down and using a flush trim bit, I milled out the openings on either side of the oval.

Cutting mat Wood Circle Musical instrument accessory Plywood


And finally you get to see what it will look like completed. Here it is with the thinner top rail parts.

Wood Hardwood Gas Wood stain Plywood


Now since there's not really a good joint when I attach this, and with the tendency of people to grab the top of the chair to move it, in the next post I'll show how I'll reinforce it.
Nice work Gary. Keep plugging away, they are really turning out great!
 

Attachments

#272 ·
Finishing up the back.

Well, this will be my last post for a while. After this it's a bunch of sanding and finishing.

There are three more parts I have to make not I'll have to wait for the chairs to be assembled first.

If anyone is interested how I'll do the upholstery, let me know or I'll just skip posting that part.

Now I left off telling you that I wanted to reinforce the top of the back. Since I have never used dowels in a joint like this I thought that this would be the perfect opportunity.

I'm going to put two dowels in each end. I figure that should make if plenty strong.

Here I have clamped a little jig to the top of the chair. There are 3 little blocks extending above and below it. It extends below to line it up with the back of the chair and above to line up the crest.

Wood Tool Hardwood Gas Plank


I drilled the holes in the jig in the drill press to assure that the went straight. The hole is sized to be just a little smaller than the point on my brad point drill. That way it will drill perfectly centered.

Wood Material property Gas Handwriting Hardwood


Here it the crest placed in the same jig. I will turn it over and drill it from the other side. That way even if the hole was 1/8" off it would still match the hole drilled in the top since it would off the same amount.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Varnish


Here on the left you can see the part with the pilot holes drilled and on the right the finish holes. Behind it you can see the jig I made to support the part while drilling the dowel hole.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plywood Lumber


Here is a part clamped in the jig that I just drilled.

Wood Hardwood Gas Flooring Countertop


Once I had all my holes drilled in the crest, I took the jig back to the drill press and opened up the holes. I clamp the jig to the top of the chair and the jig assures that I drill the holes straight. I also added a block around the drill bit to set the depth I drilled the hole.

Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Hammer drill Drill Wood


And here is the proof that it worked. All the holes lined up perfectly.

Table Wood Triangle Wood stain Plank


Now you might be thinking that those two endgrain joints at the top of the crest won't be too strong, right?
Well, once I glue in that insert from my last post, it will all be tied together just fine.

I'll sign off here for a while. Lots of sanding and finishing to do. Like I said if you are interested in the upholstery let me know.

I can't wait to start the table. That will be a breeze compared to all these chairs.
 

Attachments

#273 ·
Finishing up the back.

Well, this will be my last post for a while. After this it's a bunch of sanding and finishing.

There are three more parts I have to make not I'll have to wait for the chairs to be assembled first.

If anyone is interested how I'll do the upholstery, let me know or I'll just skip posting that part.

Now I left off telling you that I wanted to reinforce the top of the back. Since I have never used dowels in a joint like this I thought that this would be the perfect opportunity.

I'm going to put two dowels in each end. I figure that should make if plenty strong.

Here I have clamped a little jig to the top of the chair. There are 3 little blocks extending above and below it. It extends below to line it up with the back of the chair and above to line up the crest.

Wood Tool Hardwood Gas Plank


I drilled the holes in the jig in the drill press to assure that the went straight. The hole is sized to be just a little smaller than the point on my brad point drill. That way it will drill perfectly centered.

Wood Material property Gas Handwriting Hardwood


Here it the crest placed in the same jig. I will turn it over and drill it from the other side. That way even if the hole was 1/8" off it would still match the hole drilled in the top since it would off the same amount.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Varnish


Here on the left you can see the part with the pilot holes drilled and on the right the finish holes. Behind it you can see the jig I made to support the part while drilling the dowel hole.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plywood Lumber


Here is a part clamped in the jig that I just drilled.

Wood Hardwood Gas Flooring Countertop


Once I had all my holes drilled in the crest, I took the jig back to the drill press and opened up the holes. I clamp the jig to the top of the chair and the jig assures that I drill the holes straight. I also added a block around the drill bit to set the depth I drilled the hole.

Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Hammer drill Drill Wood


And here is the proof that it worked. All the holes lined up perfectly.

Table Wood Triangle Wood stain Plank


Now you might be thinking that those two endgrain joints at the top of the crest won't be too strong, right?
Well, once I glue in that insert from my last post, it will all be tied together just fine.

I'll sign off here for a while. Lots of sanding and finishing to do. Like I said if you are interested in the upholstery let me know.

I can't wait to start the table. That will be a breeze compared to all these chairs.
Again… Thank you.
 

Attachments

#286 ·
No, I'm not just messing around. I'm finishing up.

See, I've been working hard. Finally got all the sanding done!

All the pieces are dyed. and I am starting the poly finish.

All the parts were wet and left to dry. This will raise the grain. Then sanded it all off. Then dyed and anything left was lightly sanded using steel wool.

Here's all the legs. The ones on the right are still wet with dye.

Art Wood Gas Sculpture Event


And the side and front aprons with their first coat of poly.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


And the 8 backs.

I needed to put these together in advance of any finishing since I would have to sand the crest flush with the back frame. This also makes it harder to finish. You can see that I pre-finished the little insert in the crest. That was a real pain!

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Varnish


I figured out a really cool way to finish the back assembly. I screwed an eye hook into the ceiling and hung them up.
I start out hanging it low and then raise it as I go. Works VERY well. I can rotate it in the light to make sure that I got everything.

I'm leaving the hook in the ceiling!

Wood House Floor Flooring Hardwood


Good thing I pre-finished the insert, huh? I just remove the dowel to take it down.

Wood Building Wood stain Floor Hardwood


I also needed a spacer on the other side to keep the wire off of the part.

Brown Window Building Light Wood


The next time I'll be assembling the chairs.

I was thinking about doweling the legs through the tenons from the inside. That way nothing would bee seen from the outside, but I decided against it. The corner blocks should be plenty.
 

Attachments

#287 ·
No, I'm not just messing around. I'm finishing up.

See, I've been working hard. Finally got all the sanding done!

All the pieces are dyed. and I am starting the poly finish.

All the parts were wet and left to dry. This will raise the grain. Then sanded it all off. Then dyed and anything left was lightly sanded using steel wool.

Here's all the legs. The ones on the right are still wet with dye.

Art Wood Gas Sculpture Event


And the side and front aprons with their first coat of poly.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


And the 8 backs.

I needed to put these together in advance of any finishing since I would have to sand the crest flush with the back frame. This also makes it harder to finish. You can see that I pre-finished the little insert in the crest. That was a real pain!

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Varnish


I figured out a really cool way to finish the back assembly. I screwed an eye hook into the ceiling and hung them up.
I start out hanging it low and then raise it as I go. Works VERY well. I can rotate it in the light to make sure that I got everything.

I'm leaving the hook in the ceiling!

Wood House Floor Flooring Hardwood


Good thing I pre-finished the insert, huh? I just remove the dowel to take it down.

Wood Building Wood stain Floor Hardwood


I also needed a spacer on the other side to keep the wire off of the part.

Brown Window Building Light Wood


The next time I'll be assembling the chairs.

I was thinking about doweling the legs through the tenons from the inside. That way nothing would bee seen from the outside, but I decided against it. The corner blocks should be plenty.
looking good there gary

well done
 

Attachments

#306 ·
Finishing finally done! Now assembly Begins

It seemed like the sanding and sanding and sanding again; applying finish over and over again would never end, but it finally did!

Now back to the fun part. Assembly!

Here are the legs all finished

Wood Font Metal Art Motor vehicle


And one stack of the backs. You will notice no poly finish on the inside and parts that will get glue during assembly.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


The first thing I did was to assemble the front legs to the front apron. I did this first because it was easy and secondly
it would make the final glue up real easy also.

Wood Gas Auto part Composite material Machine


You see here that only two sets of clamps were needed for the final assembly.

This angle really gives you a good view of the curved back and the lumbar support.

Window Table Wood Flooring Floor


Also to make sure that everything was glued up square I made a jig that I clamped to the back apron. It fits tightly between the back legs. There is a gap between the front legs so that if needed, I could add a cross clamp to being it into square by making the gaps even. Actually I make it a little uneven to allow for some spring back once the clamps are removed.

Wood Indoor games and sports Flooring Hardwood Automotive exterior


Lastly I used some very smooth thin pieces of wood under the clamps in the back. They would conform the curves in the backs of the legs without leaving marks, as the clamps would.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Next I will add the corner blocks and the chair seat. Getting close!
 

Attachments

#307 ·
Finishing finally done! Now assembly Begins

It seemed like the sanding and sanding and sanding again; applying finish over and over again would never end, but it finally did!

Now back to the fun part. Assembly!

Here are the legs all finished

Wood Font Metal Art Motor vehicle


And one stack of the backs. You will notice no poly finish on the inside and parts that will get glue during assembly.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


The first thing I did was to assemble the front legs to the front apron. I did this first because it was easy and secondly
it would make the final glue up real easy also.

Wood Gas Auto part Composite material Machine


You see here that only two sets of clamps were needed for the final assembly.

This angle really gives you a good view of the curved back and the lumbar support.

Window Table Wood Flooring Floor


Also to make sure that everything was glued up square I made a jig that I clamped to the back apron. It fits tightly between the back legs. There is a gap between the front legs so that if needed, I could add a cross clamp to being it into square by making the gaps even. Actually I make it a little uneven to allow for some spring back once the clamps are removed.

Wood Indoor games and sports Flooring Hardwood Automotive exterior


Lastly I used some very smooth thin pieces of wood under the clamps in the back. They would conform the curves in the backs of the legs without leaving marks, as the clamps would.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Next I will add the corner blocks and the chair seat. Getting close!
Very nice workmanship Gary, we love your work up here in Maine..
 

Attachments

#325 ·
Corners done and bottoms up next.

Getting close to the end!

Here you can see that I added all the corner supports. They were basically straightforward. I cut one at 45 degrees, flipped the board over and cut another and so on. Then I set the miter gauge to 8 degrees and trimmed one side to match the angle of the sides. Then did the same at 8 degrees on the other side of zero for the other end.

Then to the drill press with a couple of brad point bits. First a 5/16" to create a counter bore and then a 3/16" for the through hole. I wanted a flat bottom for the pan head screws I attached them with. I didn't want a flat head screw since that would probably split the corner blocks.

I used hard maple. I like the way the end grain cuts to so smooth a finish, and their strength.

I probably could have gotten away with just one support in each corner, but I want these to last for years to come. I glued and screwed each one with 2 screws.

Furniture Wood Flooring Floor Table


Now on to the seat bottoms. To make the first one I just set it in place and the marked it to notch the 2 back corners. Then after I cut them, I put them back in place and traced the final shape using the sides of the chair as a guide.

Note that they were all cut to length and width first on the table saw.

Once I got the first one the way I wanted it, I held it against each of the others in turn and traced lines to cut to. I just cut them on the bandsaw since they aren't critical.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Rectangle


Then I placed my first one in place again and traced the inside.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Then I drew a line diagonally. This showed me where I needed to drill the hole in each corner. These are the holes I will use to attach the seats to the chair. I use a small little drill bit to drill all the holes. I will use this hole as a pilot hole for the bigger holes I will drill later.

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Wood stain


Then I use that first part as a template for all the holes in the other seats as well as the corner blocks in the chairs. This will assure that all the seats will be able to fit any chair. All interchangeable.

Here you can see I am drilling all the holes in the chair corner blocks. These holes will eventually be opened up to 5/16".

Wood Plane Rebate plane Wood stain Hardwood


Then I also open up all the holes in the seats to 5/16" also to accept the T-nuts. They are for 1/4-20 screws.
Don't even think about going to a big box store to buy them. I bought 100 from McMaster-Carr for about $7.50. Even with shipping they would cost about the same, but you end with a lot extra.

Wood Wood stain Table Hardwood Flooring


Here you can see them all complete! One step closer to being done!

Wood Table Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Next I will show you how I did the back.

Can anyone guess how I will do it?

Remember it will have to conform to the back, be strong enough and be able to be upholstered.
 

Attachments

#326 ·
Corners done and bottoms up next.

Getting close to the end!

Here you can see that I added all the corner supports. They were basically straightforward. I cut one at 45 degrees, flipped the board over and cut another and so on. Then I set the miter gauge to 8 degrees and trimmed one side to match the angle of the sides. Then did the same at 8 degrees on the other side of zero for the other end.

Then to the drill press with a couple of brad point bits. First a 5/16" to create a counter bore and then a 3/16" for the through hole. I wanted a flat bottom for the pan head screws I attached them with. I didn't want a flat head screw since that would probably split the corner blocks.

I used hard maple. I like the way the end grain cuts to so smooth a finish, and their strength.

I probably could have gotten away with just one support in each corner, but I want these to last for years to come. I glued and screwed each one with 2 screws.

Furniture Wood Flooring Floor Table


Now on to the seat bottoms. To make the first one I just set it in place and the marked it to notch the 2 back corners. Then after I cut them, I put them back in place and traced the final shape using the sides of the chair as a guide.

Note that they were all cut to length and width first on the table saw.

Once I got the first one the way I wanted it, I held it against each of the others in turn and traced lines to cut to. I just cut them on the bandsaw since they aren't critical.

Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Rectangle


Then I placed my first one in place again and traced the inside.

Wood Table Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


Then I drew a line diagonally. This showed me where I needed to drill the hole in each corner. These are the holes I will use to attach the seats to the chair. I use a small little drill bit to drill all the holes. I will use this hole as a pilot hole for the bigger holes I will drill later.

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Wood stain


Then I use that first part as a template for all the holes in the other seats as well as the corner blocks in the chairs. This will assure that all the seats will be able to fit any chair. All interchangeable.

Here you can see I am drilling all the holes in the chair corner blocks. These holes will eventually be opened up to 5/16".

Wood Plane Rebate plane Wood stain Hardwood


Then I also open up all the holes in the seats to 5/16" also to accept the T-nuts. They are for 1/4-20 screws.
Don't even think about going to a big box store to buy them. I bought 100 from McMaster-Carr for about $7.50. Even with shipping they would cost about the same, but you end with a lot extra.

Wood Wood stain Table Hardwood Flooring


Here you can see them all complete! One step closer to being done!

Wood Table Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Next I will show you how I did the back.

Can anyone guess how I will do it?

Remember it will have to conform to the back, be strong enough and be able to be upholstered.
lookin' sweet! As far as the curved back pieces…are you maybe going to laminate layers in a vacuum bag or clamp in a mold?
 

Attachments

#332 ·
The seat backs. Finally all the woodworking is done!

It took me a while to figure out how I was going to do the back. I had some 3/8" bending plywood, but it took too much force to keep it bent.

I thought about laminating a bunch of thin material, but that would be a lot of resawing, plus my bandsaw is limited to 12" and the back is 13 1/4".

What I came up with is a sort of glued tambour.

I took a 2×10 piece of southern yellow pine and cross cut into pieces 30" long and then ripped then into 5/16" thick pieces and then cut those in half again.

You can see the larger pieces on the left and the final sized pieces on the right.

Wood Composite material Hardwood Lumber Engineering


I wanted a lot of glue surface so I used a roundover bit on both sides of one edge and then a ball bit on the other.
You can see from the picture that no matter how they mated up I would get a lot of surface area for glue.

Finger Wood Art Nail Cuisine


Well, after a lot of cutting and routing, here are the over 200 pieces I would need. They were cut in half to 15" pieces after all the routing was done.

It would seem that I am a glutton for punishment, huh?

Table Wood Rectangle Hardwood Composite material


Then I made a jig to glue them into the shape I wanted. I put clear packing tape on the bottom ribs and rubbed a candle on the top ribs to keep the glue from sticking to anything.

Wood Creative arts Engineering Hardwood Art


Worked perfect and fit the back exactly!

Furniture Wood Table Chair Rectangle


Once I had the first on cut to size I just used it to trace the cut on the others. I cut them all on the bandsaw since they were getting covered up anyway. I cut the length a little short for any expansion of the wood.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Outdoor furniture


The part is just sitting there in the back. It fit surprisingly well. It's very comfortable to sit in as it is.

Furniture Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain


Next is the final operation. The upholstery and then I will finally be done with them.
 

Attachments

#333 ·
The seat backs. Finally all the woodworking is done!

It took me a while to figure out how I was going to do the back. I had some 3/8" bending plywood, but it took too much force to keep it bent.

I thought about laminating a bunch of thin material, but that would be a lot of resawing, plus my bandsaw is limited to 12" and the back is 13 1/4".

What I came up with is a sort of glued tambour.

I took a 2×10 piece of southern yellow pine and cross cut into pieces 30" long and then ripped then into 5/16" thick pieces and then cut those in half again.

You can see the larger pieces on the left and the final sized pieces on the right.

Wood Composite material Hardwood Lumber Engineering


I wanted a lot of glue surface so I used a roundover bit on both sides of one edge and then a ball bit on the other.
You can see from the picture that no matter how they mated up I would get a lot of surface area for glue.

Finger Wood Art Nail Cuisine


Well, after a lot of cutting and routing, here are the over 200 pieces I would need. They were cut in half to 15" pieces after all the routing was done.

It would seem that I am a glutton for punishment, huh?

Table Wood Rectangle Hardwood Composite material


Then I made a jig to glue them into the shape I wanted. I put clear packing tape on the bottom ribs and rubbed a candle on the top ribs to keep the glue from sticking to anything.

Wood Creative arts Engineering Hardwood Art


Worked perfect and fit the back exactly!

Furniture Wood Table Chair Rectangle


Once I had the first on cut to size I just used it to trace the cut on the others. I cut them all on the bandsaw since they were getting covered up anyway. I cut the length a little short for any expansion of the wood.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Outdoor furniture


The part is just sitting there in the back. It fit surprisingly well. It's very comfortable to sit in as it is.

Furniture Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain


Next is the final operation. The upholstery and then I will finally be done with them.
Looking very comfortable already, I'm starting to smell the cooking great work Gary…BC
 

Attachments

#357 ·
Upholstering the seat. Finally!

Well, the big day is finally here. Upholstering the seat.

I have to tell you that I have never done this before. I just watched some youtube videos. So I'm no expert.
Therefore I will not go into detail since I may have it wrong.

Here are my supplies. Cotton batting on the right. Some blue foam for the seats. The roll covering material at the back of the table and a roll of cambric to cover up my mess. (I didn't take a picture of the 1/2" foam for the seat backs). And lastly the seats and seat backs.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Hardwood


Here I've stapled and foam to the seat and tore off a piece of batting to size. On the left is the material.

Wood Rectangle Comfort Flooring Floor


After about a 1/2 an hour fussing with it here is my first one covered. Not quite as even and uniform as I hoped for, but not bad for my first attempt.

Wood Rectangle Ingredient Hardwood Flooring


The show side. I found out later that massaging it will even out the unevenness.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Gas Hardwood


And then the cambric fabric to cover up my mess.

Wood Floor Flooring Rectangle Hardwood


Here's how I mount them using the holes I have already drilled into the seat corner blocks. I use 1/4-20 screws.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain


And finally a fully covered and installed seat! 7 More to go. I hope to get better as I go!

Furniture Wood Floor Flooring Gas


Next I will finish up with the seat backs. Then I will be ready to more on to the table!
 

Attachments

#358 ·
Upholstering the seat. Finally!

Well, the big day is finally here. Upholstering the seat.

I have to tell you that I have never done this before. I just watched some youtube videos. So I'm no expert.
Therefore I will not go into detail since I may have it wrong.

Here are my supplies. Cotton batting on the right. Some blue foam for the seats. The roll covering material at the back of the table and a roll of cambric to cover up my mess. (I didn't take a picture of the 1/2" foam for the seat backs). And lastly the seats and seat backs.

Wood Table Floor Flooring Hardwood


Here I've stapled and foam to the seat and tore off a piece of batting to size. On the left is the material.

Wood Rectangle Comfort Flooring Floor


After about a 1/2 an hour fussing with it here is my first one covered. Not quite as even and uniform as I hoped for, but not bad for my first attempt.

Wood Rectangle Ingredient Hardwood Flooring


The show side. I found out later that massaging it will even out the unevenness.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Gas Hardwood


And then the cambric fabric to cover up my mess.

Wood Floor Flooring Rectangle Hardwood


Here's how I mount them using the holes I have already drilled into the seat corner blocks. I use 1/4-20 screws.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain


And finally a fully covered and installed seat! 7 More to go. I hope to get better as I go!

Furniture Wood Floor Flooring Gas


Next I will finish up with the seat backs. Then I will be ready to more on to the table!
Gary, I have enjoyed watching this project a great deal. Thanks for taking the time to do all the posts. It has to be exciting to see things starting to get closer to finished.
 

Attachments

#372 ·
Chairs are complete after 40 days and 40 nights.

Well, at long last I am finally done with the chairs, but I still have the table to go.

This last my last blog on the chairs. I will continue with the table though until all is complete.

Here I start just like the seat. The foam stapled to the form.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Table Office supplies


Then the batting

Wood Rectangle Comfort Hardwood Flooring


Then some simple fitting, since I don't have to worry so much about the corners. They will be concealed in the rabbet.

Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Wood stain


Front side all done.

Wood Floor Flooring Art Rectangle


Then the back. Since there was no foam or batting I just used some 77 spray adhesive. It made it a real quick and simple job. The edges won't ever peel up since they are held in by the rabbet. It will also make sure that it will conform to the seat back.

Hood Wood Gesture Art Creative arts


And here you go! You are not going to believe how I attached the backs. After some experimentation I found that a brad nailer diagonally through the back and into the seat rails would leave no marks or ruin the fabric. The brad just popped right through the fabric and disappeared.

Furniture Wood Comfort Flooring Floor


Wood Textile Flooring Floor Wood stain


Furniture Wood Comfort Chair Floor


There are a couple of firsts here for me in this project. These are the first chairs I have ever built and the first time trying to upholster anything.

Now on to my first dining table!

Oh, and did I mention that they are so comfortable that people won't be so quick to leave the table after a meal!
 

Attachments

#373 ·
Chairs are complete after 40 days and 40 nights.

Well, at long last I am finally done with the chairs, but I still have the table to go.

This last my last blog on the chairs. I will continue with the table though until all is complete.

Here I start just like the seat. The foam stapled to the form.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Table Office supplies


Then the batting

Wood Rectangle Comfort Hardwood Flooring


Then some simple fitting, since I don't have to worry so much about the corners. They will be concealed in the rabbet.

Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Wood stain


Front side all done.

Wood Floor Flooring Art Rectangle


Then the back. Since there was no foam or batting I just used some 77 spray adhesive. It made it a real quick and simple job. The edges won't ever peel up since they are held in by the rabbet. It will also make sure that it will conform to the seat back.

Hood Wood Gesture Art Creative arts


And here you go! You are not going to believe how I attached the backs. After some experimentation I found that a brad nailer diagonally through the back and into the seat rails would leave no marks or ruin the fabric. The brad just popped right through the fabric and disappeared.

Furniture Wood Comfort Flooring Floor


Wood Textile Flooring Floor Wood stain


Furniture Wood Comfort Chair Floor


There are a couple of firsts here for me in this project. These are the first chairs I have ever built and the first time trying to upholster anything.

Now on to my first dining table!

Oh, and did I mention that they are so comfortable that people won't be so quick to leave the table after a meal!
Well done Gary… great looking chair…
 

Attachments

#390 ·
The table begins with a quandry.

I told you about that very hard Santos Mahogany I was going to use for the top, right?

Well, after getting it down off the shelf yesterday I remembered just how heavy it was. I got curious and weighed it. The wood for just the top and apron would be well over 200 pounds! Just the wood!

I was thinking about doing an inlay in the top also. Something simple like a band around the edge so there would be very little chance I would mess it up.

Then I got to thinking about a 3/4" (18mm) piece of plywood for the base. At less than half the weight and way more stable, it would work nice. It would also give me the chance to do some very large scale veneering. I could get really fancy with the veneer before I ever glued it to the top. That will give all the chances I need to get it right.

Now I just have to find a local place to get some non-Chinese plywood since I want this to last through the years.
I figured that 2 sheets of 5'x5' baltic birch will work just fine with a little left over.

I'll start this section on the table, with the legs. These will be similar to the chair legs. I won't be adding the knee blocks since everyone would end up banging their knees on them. (maybe that's they got the name, huh?)

Here's the drawing I came up with. Yea, I know that you can't see it that well, but it looks pretty good.

Hand tool Wood Kitchen utensil Tool Font


I'm very happy that there will only be 4 of them this time. After all the practice I had with the chair legs, I'll be able to do these with my eyes closed!
 

Attachments

#391 ·
The table begins with a quandry.

I told you about that very hard Santos Mahogany I was going to use for the top, right?

Well, after getting it down off the shelf yesterday I remembered just how heavy it was. I got curious and weighed it. The wood for just the top and apron would be well over 200 pounds! Just the wood!

I was thinking about doing an inlay in the top also. Something simple like a band around the edge so there would be very little chance I would mess it up.

Then I got to thinking about a 3/4" (18mm) piece of plywood for the base. At less than half the weight and way more stable, it would work nice. It would also give me the chance to do some very large scale veneering. I could get really fancy with the veneer before I ever glued it to the top. That will give all the chances I need to get it right.

Now I just have to find a local place to get some non-Chinese plywood since I want this to last through the years.
I figured that 2 sheets of 5'x5' baltic birch will work just fine with a little left over.

I'll start this section on the table, with the legs. These will be similar to the chair legs. I won't be adding the knee blocks since everyone would end up banging their knees on them. (maybe that's they got the name, huh?)

Here's the drawing I came up with. Yea, I know that you can't see it that well, but it looks pretty good.

Hand tool Wood Kitchen utensil Tool Font


I'm very happy that there will only be 4 of them this time. After all the practice I had with the chair legs, I'll be able to do these with my eyes closed!
nice, Are you gonna leave the bottom square or do a ball and claw?
 

Attachments

#402 ·
These are some big thick legs!

Well, I wanted this table to be sturdy and with these legs I think it will be.

It looks like they are going to end taking up almost as much time as all the small ones. A lot more material to remove!

Here's where I started, gluing up the stock. Those are starting out at 4 1/2" square.

That is the template for the legs.

Wood Flooring Creative arts Hardwood Gas


Here you can see the templates for the chairs and table side by side. I have already traced the outline on the blanks.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Varnish


And already centered them and set them for the spur bit for the lathe.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Flooring


Here is one already turned round at the foot and rough sanded.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Composite material


Just an interesting photo showing the template next to a leg.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Plywood


I have decided to veneer the table top. It should be interesting since I have never done anything this big before.

I ended up getting 1/2" (12mm) baltic birch plywood instead of 3/4". I want to top to be pretty thick so I will glue two pieces of the 1/2" together to make a 1" thick top.

I should have the legs all done and starting on the top in the next entry.
 

Attachments

#403 ·
These are some big thick legs!

Well, I wanted this table to be sturdy and with these legs I think it will be.

It looks like they are going to end taking up almost as much time as all the small ones. A lot more material to remove!

Here's where I started, gluing up the stock. Those are starting out at 4 1/2" square.

That is the template for the legs.

Wood Flooring Creative arts Hardwood Gas


Here you can see the templates for the chairs and table side by side. I have already traced the outline on the blanks.

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Varnish


And already centered them and set them for the spur bit for the lathe.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Flooring


Here is one already turned round at the foot and rough sanded.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Composite material


Just an interesting photo showing the template next to a leg.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Natural material Plywood


I have decided to veneer the table top. It should be interesting since I have never done anything this big before.

I ended up getting 1/2" (12mm) baltic birch plywood instead of 3/4". I want to top to be pretty thick so I will glue two pieces of the 1/2" together to make a 1" thick top.

I should have the legs all done and starting on the top in the next entry.
Dang this is fun to watch….
 

Attachments

#416 ·
Starting on the top

Well, I got the legs almost done. I might put another coat of poly on them and I might not. All I have left to do is to cut them to length, but I'll wait until I make the decision about the finish. Anyway here they are.

Wood Flooring Human leg Hardwood Artifact


I am building the top in 4 sections. The matching ends and the leaves to insert to make the table longer.
The ends are going to be a final dimension of 42" wide by 30" long. This will yield a table 60" by 42" wide.
The two leaves will each be 12" which when inserted will make it either 72" or 84" long.

Here I am getting ready to glue the two 1/2" thick parts together. I will be using a vacuum press to do this to get even pressure, especially in the middle. I left the parts 1/2" long in both directions so that I can clean them up after they are glued.

I will also add a 1 1/2" solid wood border all the way around the circumference. Here are the 2 end parts.

Furniture Table Wood Cabinetry Rectangle


I am using Karson's trick to keep the pieces lined up for gluing by adding dowels on opposite corners.

Wood Floor Bumper Flooring Hardwood


Next time Everything should be all glued up and ready for veneering. I just have to make a final decision on exactly what I will do.
 

Attachments

#417 ·
Starting on the top

Well, I got the legs almost done. I might put another coat of poly on them and I might not. All I have left to do is to cut them to length, but I'll wait until I make the decision about the finish. Anyway here they are.

Wood Flooring Human leg Hardwood Artifact


I am building the top in 4 sections. The matching ends and the leaves to insert to make the table longer.
The ends are going to be a final dimension of 42" wide by 30" long. This will yield a table 60" by 42" wide.
The two leaves will each be 12" which when inserted will make it either 72" or 84" long.

Here I am getting ready to glue the two 1/2" thick parts together. I will be using a vacuum press to do this to get even pressure, especially in the middle. I left the parts 1/2" long in both directions so that I can clean them up after they are glued.

I will also add a 1 1/2" solid wood border all the way around the circumference. Here are the 2 end parts.

Furniture Table Wood Cabinetry Rectangle


I am using Karson's trick to keep the pieces lined up for gluing by adding dowels on opposite corners.

Wood Floor Bumper Flooring Hardwood


Next time Everything should be all glued up and ready for veneering. I just have to make a final decision on exactly what I will do.
and the beat goes on

great progress

hadn't seen the karson trick yet

good one
 

Attachments

#427 ·
Gluing up the top!

Someone in the last blog asked about the vacuum pump I would be using. Well, it's your standard one I made from the plans found at Joe the Woodworkers's site.

It works great.

Bag Automotive design Luggage and bags Gas Motor vehicle


Here I'm gluing up one of the table top ends.

Table Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood


And here they are all done with one more in the press.

Table Wood Workbench Hardwood Desk


The last part in the press. It's one of the leaves.

Table Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood


Here I'm clamping some spacers I will use to support the veneer that I will leave a little long when gluing in the press.

I will wax them and put them at the front and back edges. They will keep the press from bending the veneer over the edge of the top. There is no way to perfectly line up the veneer with the edge of the top so I will leave it long.

Furniture Table Wood Sawhorse Workbench


Before I apply veneer I will trim the pieces to the exact length and leave about 1/4" on each side for trimming later. Now you might ask why I just don't cut the entire thing to size.

Well, there's two reasons. First, like I said above it will give me some room to trim.

Secondly and the most important part is that I will drill 1/8" holes through the veneer and into the top once I have the veneer positioned exactly where I want it.

I will put little 1/8" dowels in the holes pegging the veneer in place to keep it from sliding around when in the press.
Since I will trim this off afterward, you won't even know they were used.

Now you are asking yourself, why I just don't the that to all four sides? Well, I want those two finished edges as my references when doing the veneer.

Next I should be starting the veneering. Right now I am experimenting with my choice of veneers and how I plan on finishing them.
 

Attachments

#428 ·
Gluing up the top!

Someone in the last blog asked about the vacuum pump I would be using. Well, it's your standard one I made from the plans found at Joe the Woodworkers's site.

It works great.

Bag Automotive design Luggage and bags Gas Motor vehicle


Here I'm gluing up one of the table top ends.

Table Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood


And here they are all done with one more in the press.

Table Wood Workbench Hardwood Desk


The last part in the press. It's one of the leaves.

Table Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood


Here I'm clamping some spacers I will use to support the veneer that I will leave a little long when gluing in the press.

I will wax them and put them at the front and back edges. They will keep the press from bending the veneer over the edge of the top. There is no way to perfectly line up the veneer with the edge of the top so I will leave it long.

Furniture Table Wood Sawhorse Workbench


Before I apply veneer I will trim the pieces to the exact length and leave about 1/4" on each side for trimming later. Now you might ask why I just don't cut the entire thing to size.

Well, there's two reasons. First, like I said above it will give me some room to trim.

Secondly and the most important part is that I will drill 1/8" holes through the veneer and into the top once I have the veneer positioned exactly where I want it.

I will put little 1/8" dowels in the holes pegging the veneer in place to keep it from sliding around when in the press.
Since I will trim this off afterward, you won't even know they were used.

Now you are asking yourself, why I just don't the that to all four sides? Well, I want those two finished edges as my references when doing the veneer.

Next I should be starting the veneering. Right now I am experimenting with my choice of veneers and how I plan on finishing them.
cool
 

Attachments

#434 ·
Getting ready to veneer!

I now have my design worked out and my veneers all picked out.

I have decided to simplify the design that I was first thinking about. It was just a little too complex to do on something this big. At least for me, since this is the first time doing something this big.

Here you can see the plan (kind of anyway). The table is basically a large rectangle with the corners cut at 45 degrees. The plan shows it with on leaf in the middle.

Cutting the corners does two things. First it matches the backs of the chairs which I planned all along and secondly it saves people from banging into the corners and it is also easier to walk around.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Beige


It's kind of hard to see here but it's one end of the table drawn in full scale. This will help me cutting some of the angled pieces. I have extended the lines for them all the way across the sheet so that I can lay my straight edge on them to cut the veneer, rather than actually measuring.

Brown Wood Tile flooring Rectangle Flooring


Here is my choice of material for the main field of the table. It's Mottled Makore. I got this about 4-5 years ago and it been begging to use it. The real reason is that it's dark enough all by itself that I won't have to color it at all to match the mahogany legs and other parts.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Here is the curly maple I will be using for the details. This is the main reason I don't want to color the wood. I would never be able to keep it off of the maple.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


Next time I will be cutting veneer. I'm really starting to see the end of this project!
 

Attachments

#435 ·
Getting ready to veneer!

I now have my design worked out and my veneers all picked out.

I have decided to simplify the design that I was first thinking about. It was just a little too complex to do on something this big. At least for me, since this is the first time doing something this big.

Here you can see the plan (kind of anyway). The table is basically a large rectangle with the corners cut at 45 degrees. The plan shows it with on leaf in the middle.

Cutting the corners does two things. First it matches the backs of the chairs which I planned all along and secondly it saves people from banging into the corners and it is also easier to walk around.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Beige


It's kind of hard to see here but it's one end of the table drawn in full scale. This will help me cutting some of the angled pieces. I have extended the lines for them all the way across the sheet so that I can lay my straight edge on them to cut the veneer, rather than actually measuring.

Brown Wood Tile flooring Rectangle Flooring


Here is my choice of material for the main field of the table. It's Mottled Makore. I got this about 4-5 years ago and it been begging to use it. The real reason is that it's dark enough all by itself that I won't have to color it at all to match the mahogany legs and other parts.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


Here is the curly maple I will be using for the details. This is the main reason I don't want to color the wood. I would never be able to keep it off of the maple.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


Next time I will be cutting veneer. I'm really starting to see the end of this project!
You're doing a great job…

Thank you for hanging in there…
 

Attachments

#443 ·
Veneering starts, but first a little primer.

It seems that I have sparked some interest in some of you with the veneering aspect of this job.

I am not an expert at it but I do have a few tips that might be interesting to those who have never done it before.

First is sharpening an Exacto (or whatever brand you are using) blade. I didn't learn this for a long time. I just bought a bunch of blades and threw them away as they got dull. But they are so easy to sharpen I have been kicking myself in the head for not finding out sooner.

Only the tip gets dull. So you just remove material from the tip to bring the sharp edge to the tip. It's not really even sharpening. See below what I am talking about. I use a diamond plate that I happen to have but anything will work.

I bet that I can get through this whole job with a single blade!

Writing implement Table Wood Office supplies Pen


Next is some things that will help you out. First is a self healing cutting mat. With all the lines and dimensions already marked it is fantastic. This one is about 36" square and I just bought it for this job. I have a smaller one that I have been using, but I needed this for the table sized job. It was less than $30 at Walmart. Fabric and sewing stores also have them.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Wood stain Indoor games and sports


Then a good straight steel scale. This one is a centering scale. It's marked with Zero in the middle and goes out from there. This job is basically parquetry and not marquetry since it's all straight lines. You can see that I taped the scale to the mat with the right edge on a line. (I do this since I'm right handed). When cutting strips I just line up the veneer with the appropriate line and cut away.

There is one thing that I can't emphasize enough, and that's that you make you first few cuts VERY light. This will cut a groove for the blade to follow when you start applying more pressure. If you don't you'll be sorry, that's all I have to say about that.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Font


Another thing it some masking tape. I like the blue painters tape since it comes off so easily and leaves no glue behind.
You will also need some veneer tape. They make two types. This kind called "Three Hole Tape" and solid tape with no holes.

The holes make it easier to see your joint, but it's a lot harder to get off when your done. The opposite with the solid.

Here is the start of my top:

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood


I started in the center and will work my way out.

There are other things that you can get to help you, but I feel that these are the bare minimum to get you going.

Rectangle Wood Tablecloth Flooring Hardwood


Next time I will finish this end of the table.
 

Attachments

#444 ·
Veneering starts, but first a little primer.

It seems that I have sparked some interest in some of you with the veneering aspect of this job.

I am not an expert at it but I do have a few tips that might be interesting to those who have never done it before.

First is sharpening an Exacto (or whatever brand you are using) blade. I didn't learn this for a long time. I just bought a bunch of blades and threw them away as they got dull. But they are so easy to sharpen I have been kicking myself in the head for not finding out sooner.

Only the tip gets dull. So you just remove material from the tip to bring the sharp edge to the tip. It's not really even sharpening. See below what I am talking about. I use a diamond plate that I happen to have but anything will work.

I bet that I can get through this whole job with a single blade!

Writing implement Table Wood Office supplies Pen


Next is some things that will help you out. First is a self healing cutting mat. With all the lines and dimensions already marked it is fantastic. This one is about 36" square and I just bought it for this job. I have a smaller one that I have been using, but I needed this for the table sized job. It was less than $30 at Walmart. Fabric and sewing stores also have them.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Wood stain Indoor games and sports


Then a good straight steel scale. This one is a centering scale. It's marked with Zero in the middle and goes out from there. This job is basically parquetry and not marquetry since it's all straight lines. You can see that I taped the scale to the mat with the right edge on a line. (I do this since I'm right handed). When cutting strips I just line up the veneer with the appropriate line and cut away.

There is one thing that I can't emphasize enough, and that's that you make you first few cuts VERY light. This will cut a groove for the blade to follow when you start applying more pressure. If you don't you'll be sorry, that's all I have to say about that.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Font


Another thing it some masking tape. I like the blue painters tape since it comes off so easily and leaves no glue behind.
You will also need some veneer tape. They make two types. This kind called "Three Hole Tape" and solid tape with no holes.

The holes make it easier to see your joint, but it's a lot harder to get off when your done. The opposite with the solid.

Here is the start of my top:

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood


I started in the center and will work my way out.

There are other things that you can get to help you, but I feel that these are the bare minimum to get you going.

Rectangle Wood Tablecloth Flooring Hardwood


Next time I will finish this end of the table.
thanks for the basic veneer lesson

that score lightly seems so right

i've 'torn' veneer from over pressure before

this is looking great mike

thanks
 

Attachments

#459 ·
Taping up the veneer.

Last time I showed you the center part of the top all taped up. This time I will go through the sequence I used to do the entire thing.

First I start with one edge. I use the blue tape to hold everything in place. I also use it to position the veneers tightly together before I apply the veneer tape.

I place the blue tape firmly on one piece of the veneer and then stretch it and stick it to the other piece. This will pull them tightly together. Afterwords I will remove the blue tape and put veneer tape in its place.

Blue Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


Then I attached the right side and one of the two top sections. I have to use two because the veneer wasn't wide enough since I wanted all the grain in the field to run in one direction.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


You can see here I have an over sized piece to fill the spot. This are the only two pieces that I will have to cut in place.
I position it under the parts already there the use them as my guide. I tape the piece in place along the straight edges so it won't move.

Brown Wood Rectangle Beige Flooring


After they are all in I tape down my scale again for this long trim cut. I don't want the scale to move.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Hardwood Space


Then I follow with the maple strip the same way. For the angled cuts I start with one piece already taped in place making sure that it is long. Then put the next piece in place under it and cut across the two edges there they meet.
See the picture below. This will work on any angle you want.

I lightly cut the first pass then remove the piece under it and finish the cut. I will then do the same thing to mark the other piece and cut it.

Slope Rectangle Triangle Parallel Font


Then I just do the same thing with the dark material to finish it out.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Here is it all taped up:

Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Here it is flipped over showing the side that will get glued down.

Wood Rectangle Building material Flooring Composite material


And then later in the day, the other end all done and setup to show what the finished top will look like.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


Next I will break out the veneer press!
 

Attachments

#460 ·
Taping up the veneer.

Last time I showed you the center part of the top all taped up. This time I will go through the sequence I used to do the entire thing.

First I start with one edge. I use the blue tape to hold everything in place. I also use it to position the veneers tightly together before I apply the veneer tape.

I place the blue tape firmly on one piece of the veneer and then stretch it and stick it to the other piece. This will pull them tightly together. Afterwords I will remove the blue tape and put veneer tape in its place.

Blue Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


Then I attached the right side and one of the two top sections. I have to use two because the veneer wasn't wide enough since I wanted all the grain in the field to run in one direction.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


You can see here I have an over sized piece to fill the spot. This are the only two pieces that I will have to cut in place.
I position it under the parts already there the use them as my guide. I tape the piece in place along the straight edges so it won't move.

Brown Wood Rectangle Beige Flooring


After they are all in I tape down my scale again for this long trim cut. I don't want the scale to move.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Hardwood Space


Then I follow with the maple strip the same way. For the angled cuts I start with one piece already taped in place making sure that it is long. Then put the next piece in place under it and cut across the two edges there they meet.
See the picture below. This will work on any angle you want.

I lightly cut the first pass then remove the piece under it and finish the cut. I will then do the same thing to mark the other piece and cut it.

Slope Rectangle Triangle Parallel Font


Then I just do the same thing with the dark material to finish it out.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Here is it all taped up:

Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Here it is flipped over showing the side that will get glued down.

Wood Rectangle Building material Flooring Composite material


And then later in the day, the other end all done and setup to show what the finished top will look like.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Hardwood


Next I will break out the veneer press!
Wow! That's a nice step by step. All looks tight together.

That is a very nice top.
 

Attachments

#474 ·
Let the pressing begin!

Well, pressing starts today. First I have to prepare the backing to balance out the substrate to avoid warping. I don't really think I will need it with 1" thick plywood but I'm not taking the chance at this point.

I'm using some nice wide mahogany veneer I have had for a long time.

I didn't use any special glue, just regular yellow glue. What I did do was to glue up the back first, apply the veneer and put it into the press for about 5 minutes. Then took it back out and then did the front. This gave the back veneer time to adhere so that it would stay in place and not move while I did the top. It was not so long that it dried too fast.

It worked pretty good.

Table Wood Flooring Rectangle Desk


I got so caught up in the pressing that I forgot to take any pictures of the ends being pressed so you will have to settle with one of the leaves. You can see those strips I was gluing up earlier, supporting the veneer on each side.

Furniture Wood Hood Table Flooring


Here's a neat little trick for trimming something with an uneven edge. You can see on the part on the left of the picture how the veneer extends past the edge. I just use a 1" strip of wood resting on the good edge and the fence as you can see on the right. That gives me a nice straight edge to cut with.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Hardwood


Here you can see the ends all pressed. One has had the tape removed already.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor House


Here is the back showing the veneer on the other side.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Varnish Hardwood


And last but not least the entire top laid out.

Wood Rectangle Table Floor Wood stain


Next I have some trimming to do.
 

Attachments

#475 ·
Let the pressing begin!

Well, pressing starts today. First I have to prepare the backing to balance out the substrate to avoid warping. I don't really think I will need it with 1" thick plywood but I'm not taking the chance at this point.

I'm using some nice wide mahogany veneer I have had for a long time.

I didn't use any special glue, just regular yellow glue. What I did do was to glue up the back first, apply the veneer and put it into the press for about 5 minutes. Then took it back out and then did the front. This gave the back veneer time to adhere so that it would stay in place and not move while I did the top. It was not so long that it dried too fast.

It worked pretty good.

Table Wood Flooring Rectangle Desk


I got so caught up in the pressing that I forgot to take any pictures of the ends being pressed so you will have to settle with one of the leaves. You can see those strips I was gluing up earlier, supporting the veneer on each side.

Furniture Wood Hood Table Flooring


Here's a neat little trick for trimming something with an uneven edge. You can see on the part on the left of the picture how the veneer extends past the edge. I just use a 1" strip of wood resting on the good edge and the fence as you can see on the right. That gives me a nice straight edge to cut with.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Hardwood


Here you can see the ends all pressed. One has had the tape removed already.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor House


Here is the back showing the veneer on the other side.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Varnish Hardwood


And last but not least the entire top laid out.

Wood Rectangle Table Floor Wood stain


Next I have some trimming to do.
As always Gary, that's awesome. Just let me add that, I'm glad you have a little girl…I can just see my 3 boys using that for a hot wheel race track, and drifting them around the corners- SCRRREEEEEEECHHH!
 

Attachments

#489 ·
Just a little trimming.

It took some fiddling to get things right when I trimmed the edges I had to make sure that everything remained centered with both the ends as well as the leaves.

Then I had the corners to deal with. I wanted to make sure that they were consistent and at the exact angle. What I did was to place a piece of scrap with a straight edge in the position I wanted it. I had to take into account the distance of the edge of the router base to the bit.

Once this was worked out I clamped it into position then glued and brad nailed two blocks to locate it.

Here you can see what I came up with. It doesn't have to be pretty to work!

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


I had already used a circular saw to trim the corners. Here you can see the jig in place.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


And finally you can see it after I trimmed the corner.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Composite material


From this point on I have to be real careful not to ding the sharp edges. If I do I'm screwed big time.

Next I will make the trim pieces to go around the edges so I won't have to worry about them anymore.
 

Attachments

#490 ·
Just a little trimming.

It took some fiddling to get things right when I trimmed the edges I had to make sure that everything remained centered with both the ends as well as the leaves.

Then I had the corners to deal with. I wanted to make sure that they were consistent and at the exact angle. What I did was to place a piece of scrap with a straight edge in the position I wanted it. I had to take into account the distance of the edge of the router base to the bit.

Once this was worked out I clamped it into position then glued and brad nailed two blocks to locate it.

Here you can see what I came up with. It doesn't have to be pretty to work!

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


I had already used a circular saw to trim the corners. Here you can see the jig in place.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


And finally you can see it after I trimmed the corner.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Composite material


From this point on I have to be real careful not to ding the sharp edges. If I do I'm screwed big time.

Next I will make the trim pieces to go around the edges so I won't have to worry about them anymore.
You're making great progress! This table is going to look great! Of course it needs to to go with the chairs… Looking forward to the next post alrready.
 

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