Well, that was a lot of gluing to get all those knee blocks in place.
Now I could just sand them flush with the leg but that makes a lot of sawdust so I figured that I would use a chisel to remove the majority of extra wood. You can see in the picture below that I made a quick bench hook to support the leg while I worked on it. That and a nice sharp chisel.
You can’t really see exactly how I do it since I need one hand to take the picture. I would normally have my left hand pressing the chisel flush to the surface of the leg while I pushed with the right. I also keep the butt of the chisel right at the level of my belt and use my hips to apply pressure. With the pressure from my hip, I am mainly using my right hand to guide the chisel. This makes it real easy to shave off the material.
Then I use the spindle sander to sand under where the knee meets the leg. I put a block under the square part of the leg to supports it. This will give it real smooth transition and remove the saw marks from the rest of the knee block.
Then back to the belt sander to clean up where the knees meet the leg.
At this point things don’t have to be real pretty.
On the knee at 8 degrees I rounded the transition instead of leaving it square.
Then back in the lathe for two reasons. I can run it a slow speed to sand the round part at the bottom of the leg and hold it while I sanded it with the RO sander. Remember that I trimmed the top of the leg to length already? Well I took one of the cut offs and added 4 little angled pieces to it. This will keep it spinning true and not mark the leg with a hole.
I used 100 grit in the sander to fair all the surfaces nice and smooth. Then I will finish sanding the rest by hand and clean up anything else that needs it. Since that will take so long, I will do about 2 legs a day so it will be a while before you hear from me again. I hate sanding!
It looks a lot better now, huh?
Till next time.
-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX