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Blog entry by GaryCN posted 2345 days ago 924 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I must say that i have used this system and it works well
I rarely use my table saw on sheet goods now.

and it works very well. I rarely use my table saw on sheet goods.

The Eurekazone does a good job.

http://www.eurekazone.com/

-- Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati



4 comments so far

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2621 days


#1 posted 2345 days ago

Looks likn of like the Festool Circular saw setup.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2454 days


#2 posted 2345 days ago

The setup looks interesting. I just can’t bring myself to replace the straight edge and clamps that I currently use. (Actually I just can’t convince myself to spend the money because I tend to be cheap) :)

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Myron Wooley's profile

Myron Wooley

226 posts in 2529 days


#3 posted 2345 days ago

I’ve owed the Eurekazone guide system for a couple of years now. It does work as advertised; however, the system has some quirks.

The strong points:
  • The guide rail is strong and straight. The SmartClamps do a good job of securing the rail to the stock.
  • The saw base fits my DeWalt saw to a “T”.
  • It cuts straight, and it is OK to stop the saw mid-cut, walk around to a better position, and resume the cut.
  • The cuts are pretty clean, with minimum tearout. I use a 40T Freud thin kerf blade.
  • The system is a good substitute for a table saw- sort of a “poor-man’s panel saw”.
The weak points:
  • The squareness of the cut is heavily dependent on measurement technique. I have built several projects using the system, and a truly square panel is elusive. It is important to measure from the left, place the guide rail on the workpiece, and clamp it to the piece you want to keep. If you clamp it to the off-fall, you will be off by a kerf-width.
  • After the first cut, the plastic rail inserts are chewed up and make it tough to see exactly where to position the clamp. This was my main issue. I was frustrated over and over by cuts that were off by 1/8” over 48”. This may be within some folks’ limits of acceptability, but as a Certified Quality Engineer, this makes me nuts.

The system is great for breaking down full sheets if you’re not equipped otherwise. I’ve since installed an Exaktor sliding table and Ezee-Feed infeed table on my Unisaw, and I get better results, but I have the space.

Other woodworkers will probably like the system quite a bit, and the price is not unreasonable.

-- The days are long and the years are short...

View GaryCN's profile

GaryCN

277 posts in 2567 days


#4 posted 2344 days ago

I usually cut 1/16” to 1/8” oversize and then finish it up on a jointer
saw Porter Cable 447 with a CMT thin kerf plywood blade 40t
my plastic rails are still in good shape but I recently ordered a replacement
set because I may replace the blade soon. I would only use the guide
with one blade as it trims the insert on the first cut.
i also use this table set up

-- Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

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