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Table Saw Sled Alignment #1: Aligning a Table Saw Sled Fence to 90 Degrees

Blog entry by GarageWoodworks posted 500 days ago 587 reads 2 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Table Saw Sled Alignment series Part 2: Quick Alignment Tip! »

Aligning a table saw (TS) sled fence to 90 degrees can be a frustrating, hair pulling event. However, if you follow the following tip, it can be a breeze. Sure, there are other methods to align a TS sled fence to 90°, but most require making test cuts with plywood and are less accurate. Aside from being less accurate, the other methods take longer to get an accurate 90°. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather be spending my time making projects than trying to align my tools. Speed is the major advantage here, accuracy just comes along for the ride!

First, place a dial indicator w/ a magnetic base on your table saw fence or table saw surface. I like to use the table saw fence because I can lock the dial indicator on the TS-fence and move it into the square.

Temporarily secure the sled fence to the sled. Next, place a good quality square against your sled fence and zero the indicator at the top of the square.

Now slide the sled forward and take an indicator reading at the bottom of the square.

If your second measurement doesn’t read zero, your sled fence is not square. Adjust the sled fence and re-measure.

You can also rip pieces of plywood and measure with a caliper the two ends of the strip you rip off (or use the 5-cut method). These methods are less accurate, wastes plywood and most importantly take longer.

You can also buy a TS-Aligner Jr. (see my review) and do the same thing (only this time you will need to secure the Aligner to your TS because it doesn’t have a magnetic base.)

-- Brian http://www.garagewoodworks.com


13 comments so far

View Scott Bryan's profile (online now)

Scott Bryan

20636 posts in 716 days


posted 500 days ago

Brian,

Thanks for the post. That is a useful tip.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View moshel's profile

moshel

478 posts in 578 days


posted 500 days ago

this is probably a very stupid question, but why not use a large carpenter square to align it directly to the fence? because of the length of the square, any inaccuracy will be noticeable.

-- The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep...

View FlWoodRat's profile

FlWoodRat

582 posts in 803 days


posted 499 days ago

Moshel Typically, large carpenter squares ARE NOT SQUARE. They are close enough for framing, but not for precise work.

Brian Does your sled have runners or do you plan to run it against your fence? If no, did you verify the sled is square to your blade? I never ran my sled against the fence.

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning....

View GarageWoodworks's profile

GarageWoodworks

205 posts in 517 days


posted 499 days ago

Moshel,

When you say align it to the fence, I assume you mean the TS-fence and that you are placing the carpenters square aqainst the TS-fence and the sled-fence. If not please let me know.

First, you are making the assumption that your TS-fence is perfectly parallel with your TS-miter tracks. Any deviation from parallel here with throw off the alignment of your sled-fence. Second, (assuming your square is a perfect 90°) you would need to use feeler gauges to check the fit at the top and bottom of the square OR look for light in between the square and the TS-fence. IMHO this method would be MUCH slower and MUCH less accuate than the method I describe.

WoodRat,
My sled uses two runners and does not ride the TS-fence.

Hope this helps.

-- Brian http://www.garagewoodworks.com

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

1094 posts in 648 days


posted 499 days ago

Very nice post thanks for the tips!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View moshel's profile

moshel

478 posts in 578 days


posted 497 days ago

Thanks for the explanation. i knew it was a stupid question :-).

-- The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep...

View GarageWoodworks's profile

GarageWoodworks

205 posts in 517 days


posted 497 days ago

No. Not a stupid question at all. Give it a try. A dial indicator w/ magnetic base is around $40.00. You will be suprised how many uses you find for it.

-- Brian http://www.garagewoodworks.com

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

9521 posts in 882 days


posted 497 days ago

I usually cut the slot first and use a carpenter square (one that I have squared perfectly) against two
pieces of material that fits tight in the slot. One at each end of the slot.

A carpenter square is very easy to square with a center punch and a hammer. If anyone is interested how, let me know.

BTW I used to be a machinist and have all the tools still.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

View Karson's profile

Karson

25793 posts in 1294 days


posted 497 days ago

Thanks for the tips.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

3460 posts in 582 days


posted 491 days ago

great info …thank you !

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

View jeanmarc's profile

jeanmarc

1751 posts in 610 days


posted 482 days ago

Very nice post.thank you !

-- jeanmarc manosque france

View Rob Cameron's profile

Rob Cameron

11 posts in 306 days


posted 266 days ago

Hi Brian,

Great tip! I’m struggling with an out-of-square sled right now and it’s killing me. What material did you use for the front/back sled? I can’t seem to keep any piece of wood from bowing/cupping, even baltic birch. :( My current fence is two 3/4” slabs of baltic birch glued together and they’ve already got a slight bow in them, so depending on how long the piece is that I’m crosscutting I’m off by various angles.

I tried clamping it to a straight edge and then screwing in the fence to the base but as soon as I unclamped it I think it actually bowed the FRONT fence back and pulled the base with it! Why is keeping things straight so hard?? :)

-- Sketchup for Woodworkers.com : Simple tutorials and resources to help build your next project with Google Sketchup

View GarageWoodworks's profile

GarageWoodworks

205 posts in 517 days


posted 265 days ago

Rob,
The front and back are made from cherry (8/4). The front is reinforced with another piece of 8/4 walnut (I ran out of 8/4 cherry).

If your fence bows you can take the bow out at the jointer and re-attach.

Good luck.

-- Brian http://www.garagewoodworks.com

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