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TV Stand #7: Cauls, jigs, molding and doors

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Blog entry by Angela posted 09-15-2011 05:20 AM 2260 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Finally gluing up the top Part 7 of TV Stand series Part 8: Raised Panel Doors, Soss Invisible Hinges, Table Top Edge, Getting Ready for the Finish »

Bottom Molding
I cut a long piece of the African mahogany 3” wide. I original use ¾” but didn’t like the way it looked so I planed it down to 5/8”. I ran it through my router table using a Freud Roman Ogee router bit # 38362.

I first cut the front piece. I used the same angles that I used on the main case. After cutting the side angles, the pieces didn’t fit based on the angles I cut them.

When I glued the sides of the main case together the angles came out different from what I original designed. I used my digital protractor/angle finder against the case to discover the new angles.

I then divided it in two and used that angle to cut a new side piece.

The fit was much better. Although the photo still shows a gap, it’s the uneven floor. When the piece is pushed together it fits perfect.

I left extra on the back because I’ll finish it later.

Doors
I was having problem with the doors. I made a prototype and didn’t like the way it looked. I know the prototype doesn’t look that good but I still wouldn’t like it if I had made it perfect.

It took a couple of days studying the doors to figure out what was wrong. I though of using a slab door but didn’t really like that idea. When I came across this photo, I realized what the problem was.

I discovered I didn’t like the doors because the design of the doors, with the rails and stiles, were square. If I miter cut the corners the door looked like I wanted it to. I started with a long 2” wide by ¾” thick piece. I used a miter drawer frame router bit from MLCS. Since my door frame had to be smaller than the usual 2-1/2”, instead of using the usual door bit I used the smaller miter drawer bit (Item # 8778).

I used a wider board than I needed so once it was routed I cut it to length on the table saw. I then sanded the piece.

To cut the miter corners I decided to make a table saw miter cutting jig. The jig worked perfect to cut the door frame.

I’m waiting on a router bit I order online to cut the slot in the side of the frame where the raised panel will fit.

I cut the raise panel section to size then routed it with a Rockler Ogee raised panel bit # 60971, which has a back cutter.

I’m not sure what type of hinge I’ll use.

Miter Cutting Jig
I used a ¾” Baltic Birch piece of plywood (15-7/8” X 13-1/4”). ½” plywood could be used be I didn’t have a piece the size I needed. It’s an unusual size because I didn’t cut the piece I had on hand. I cut some cherry wood; I had on hand, and cut it to size to use as the miter sled. The miter guide bars came to ¾” wide X 5/16” deep X 19-3/8” long.

I read different articles about building one of these sleds, and some talking about aligning the plywood exactly at 90 degrees to the miter slots. I don’t see a need for this because even it you install the plywood at an angle it still wouldn’t matter. The key to the jig’s accuracy is installing the miter fences precisely at 90°.

If you would like further information about this jig, you can go to my website where I put the instructions in detail.

Top
For the top I made some cauls and special cauls for my pipe clamps.
To read more about this you’ll need to go to my web site.

I ended up using liquid Hide glue to glue up the top. I purchased some flakes but didn’t use them for this product. The reason I decided on hide glue was because I first ran a test with the different glues.
I’ve always had some problems cleaning the glue so it doesn’t show through the stain unless I ran the wood through a planer and removed a lot of wood. I don’t have this opinion in this piece. I can sand it but I can’t remove too much wood.

I’ve never used hide glue so wasn’t sure about it. The old story about wanting to stay in my comfort zone. With the test I glued two piece together of the same wood I’m using. I did one with TB III and the other with TB liquid Hide glue. I removed the TBIII as it started to harden like I normally do. With the hide glue I also waited until it started to harden, then I used warm water to remove the squeeze out. I left both clamped overnight. The following day I used 400 grit and sanded each very little. I then stained both piece and couldn’t believe how the hide glue didn’t show at all anywhere on the wood. When I glued the piece together I purposely got glue everywhere to see if it would clean up. The Hide glue worked so much better than the TB III I can’t wait to try the flakes.

Hide glue also has a long open time, which I also needed so set all the cauls in place. Once the top was glued and clamped I let it set overnight.

Once the top was glued together and the glue residue was removed, I drew the outline of the top on the back. I marked an extra couple of inched out from this line for the overhang. I used a circular saw with a straight edge to cut the top to shape. The corners are still unfinished and I’m trying to figure out what router bit to use on the top and what molding to go with it.

Finishing
Since I’ve never finished Mahogany before I’m not sure what would look best. I searched the web and LJ for ideas. Based on what I learned it appears I’ll first use no wax Shellac (cut in half with denatured alcohol). Then I stain it and the last step is to fill it. I thought filling would be first but since its solvent based and not water based, the filling is done last.

I purchased about $100 worth of different type and colors of stain.

I’m not sure what type of router bit I’ll be using for the table top edge. I know I’m going to add some molding under the table top but I’m not sure what is going to be yet.

I welcome any suggestions, ideas, or comments.

Thanks
Angela

-- www.WoodWorkersWebsite.com - Helping other woodworker's



4 comments so far

View woodworm's profile

woodworm

14125 posts in 2245 days


#1 posted 09-15-2011 06:18 AM

I like the design. Thanks for sharing.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View DogwoodTales's profile

DogwoodTales

28 posts in 1189 days


#2 posted 09-15-2011 06:23 AM

Nice project! That’s going to look very nice in the house.

Yeah, I also would think filling would come before the stain anyway. Otherwise how will you match the filler to the stain? Won’t you end up with specs of color that don’t match the stain?
Unless you are using a clear finish as a filler? Put on a few coats, let it cure, then rub it down to a flat surface being careful to not rub through the clear coat and then into the stain.
What I’ve done before to flatten a lacquer finish a little on a project with large pores is 600g w/d sand paper with a mix of 2/3 ms and 1/3 mineral oil.
If you’re using a gel stain, however, why not do the filling first and then the stain? You can use a sanding slurry with shellac to fill the pores. Just a thought.

-- Ray, www.dogwoodtales.com, Cincinnati, OH

View Angela's profile

Angela

205 posts in 1550 days


#3 posted 09-15-2011 06:56 AM

This is from Behlen’s website regarding filling the pores with an oil based filler.

There are many ways to apply paste wood filler. We prefer to use the following method.
1. Stain the wood if you wish. You can use any type of stain that you wish, dye, wiping stain, gel stains etc. Allow to dry completely
2. Apply a washcoat of 2 lb cut dewaxed shellac or use lacquer sanding sealer if applying a solvent lacquer like Behlen Qualalacq. Vinyl sealer can be substituted if your schedule uses it. Allow the seal to dry.
3. Sand lightly with P320 stearated sandpaper. Go lightly and do not cut through the sealer or filler
4. Apply the filler with a brush and remove the excess with a squeegee/leveler or plastic scraper going at a 45 degree angle to the grain.
5. Let the filler dwell just long enough so that it “hazes” – typically 15 minutes or so. If the filler is drying too rapidly you can slow it down with some mineral spirits.
6. Remove the excess filler with burlap or a terry cloth type towel using it across the grain at first. Then finish up very lightly in a circular motion.
7. If filler is hard to remove in some areas because it has set up, moisten a rag with a small amount of Naphtha and remove lightly.
8. Allow filler to dry 48 hours. If waterborne or oil based finishes are used as the topcoat we recommend sealing the dry filler with one more application of dewaxed shellac first.

Althought their website doesn’t recommend the first coat of Shellac others on LJ do so you get a better finish.

The filler would only go before the stain if it’s water base.

-- www.WoodWorkersWebsite.com - Helping other woodworker's

View GregD's profile

GregD

616 posts in 1790 days


#4 posted 09-15-2011 03:11 PM

This post has a couple of pictures of finished parts from my recent project that is also out of African Mahogany. The finish on these parts is Waterlox original (2 coats) and Waterlox gloss (1 coat). The color was plenty dark and rich with no stain. The finish darkened the wood quite a bit – wetting the bare wood with mineral spirits provided a reasonable first approximation of the final color, but I think in the end the color from the Waterlox was even darker and richer.

But I think my stock was noticably darker than yours to begin with. This blog post has a couple of pictures of an part in progress where you can see the contrast between the African Mahogany and the poplar I used for the core.

Waterlox is a tung oil. I would not describe it as “green”; lots of VOC. But, probably because of that, it is very easy to apply. It starts out with a very low viscosity, so it is easy to brush out and it soaks into the wood quickly. Between soaking in and solvent evaporation the coating flattens and sets up so you don’t get brush marks and it is not prone to drips and sags. It sets up so quickly that I had much less of an issue with dust nibs than I usually get with polyurathane.

-- Greg D.

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