Gluing

I use TiteBond 2 and have never had any problems with wiping away the excess with a wet sponge : )
If you have the boards clamped together properly , no water can penetrate the joint deep enough to affect the glue anyway ;)

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

I haven’t had any trouble wiping it away and my father has not either. However I find this method of scraping it off much easier. I use a putty knife and then a razor blade since I don’t have a card scraper yet. I also have seen people use a triangle paint scraper and have thought about buying one of these just for this purpose.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

I’ve used a cloth with water forever. No problems.

-- Bruce from Central New York

My experience is in line with the first 3.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

I always let it dry and then scrape it off. It seems to stay on the surface and not soak in.

Another method is to let it set up for a while and then pull it off like a zipper.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I have used both methods.

Early on in my woodworking I would always use a damp cloth and wipe the excess off. And this worked for me for several years. But occasionally I did notice glue spots when I put a finish on it. After doing some research and reading authors such as Jeff Jewitt and Bob Flexner I am now letting it set about 30 minutes. It is rubbery at this stage and comes off fairly easily either by simply pulling it off, as Gary says or using a putty knife to remove the more stubborn areas.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Scraping off the rubbery stage glue is the only way to go with open pore woods, like oak. If you wipe it off with water, it will get in the pores and you won’t get it out. I’ve never had a weak joint from wiping it off with a wet rag on other types of wood.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I like the way David Marks does it. Blue tape all joints. Didn’t say I always do it that way. Just like the way he does it. LOL. I mostly wipe it clean with a damp cloth. Most likely because it seems to be the fastest and it’s right there in your face. Have tried removing it after it started to dry a couple of times, but wasn’t dry enough and slightly smeared the glue…So…Had to wipe it off with a damp rag anyway. Live and learn. But the tape seems to stop a lot of the issues. Also stops some tear out if you apply it before you cut the board.

-- JJohn

I use a sharp hook scraper and wait until the glue gets rubbery before I scrape it off. I find it makes sanding easier, no melted glue on a belt sander, no glue in the pores and a lot less effort than when it is hard.

-- Islandwoodworker@Gmail.com

I did not learn this from David Marks, and I’m quite sure he did not learn it from me; but I use the blue tape method. If you are careful you can use the tape several times. I know that sounds silly—- but I’m a cheap skate! The tape works well, but it’s best to remove it before the glue squeeze out dries. For those spots where the tape did not do the job (because I did not apply it correctly) – I use the let it get rubbery then zip it off as Gary said. – it works great.

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.

If you clean it wet you get some glue 2 to 3 inches wide so if you have 5 boards clued together you have glue unvisible to the eye all over your wood , if you scrap it before it is completely dry you remove only a small line of glue , I use to clean it wet but now I use a paint scraper works fine for me , everybody has its own way nothing wrong with that , I just wanted to share my way….have a good woodworking time buddies

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