The core of the table is 9 feet long, with a pair of openings on each end for two ~18 inch wide drawers. The drawers are made out of maple, which I knew would wear well on the drawer runners. I also knew I wanted dovetailed joints because these drawers would end up being pretty heavy. I marked out the tails first after reading much debate about pins first versus tails first. Tails makes sense to me, so I marked them out, cut the rough dimensions out on the tablesaw, and cleaned it up with a chisel.
Pins were quite the challenge. I built a jig based on a project I saw here on LumberJocks a few years back to help. This is what makes this website awesome – I am always finding solutions to problems with my projects. My version did not come out as nice, but worked pretty good. Again, more cleanup with a chisel to make things good and go for a test fit.
This was the first set of dovetails I have ever cut. I had done an individual dovetail on my mini-bench, but never multiple dovetails in a single joint. Test fit came out pretty good. The excessive overhang was intentional, and turned out to be a lifesaver, since the first drawer came out too narrow (I had to put some spacers in the joint later).
For the bottom of the drawers, I did not want bare plywood. I chose to put some white laminate on 1/2 inch plywood so that I could have a reasonably bright view of what is in the drawers. This has turned out to be a great choice and I highly recommend it.
Assembly and cleaning up the corners. You can see the groove I cut for the drawer bottom. Not too many pictures here, I started to get excited that it was going to come out OK.
And a fit of the drawer into its future home. It can be pulled out a full four feet, which is great for longer things that woodworkers have, like clamps and straightedges (I plan for lots of cabinets in my shop, so I will not have a ton of wall space to hang things up). The groove for the drawer runner is a bear to cut on a fully assembled drawer, should have cut it earlier.
I then added a 1/2 inch thick piece of maple to act as a stop against the runners when the drawer is fully closed. I had read about this trick on Fine Woodworking’s website, it is supposed to create a fake half blind dovetail. It did not come out as seamless as the article, but works, and that is all that matters. These pictures are of the back of the drawer, where I extended the groove for the runner. I did not extend the groove on the front, so that I could have the stop against the runner. It also covered up the spacers I put in to make up for making too narrow of a drawer, as well as the groove for the drawer bottom.
Next entry will cover some accessories I started building for the table.
-- I can complicate anything